The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
About DAMN TIME I found MY thread!
The only pic I have worthy of this thread was taken by Deb Walker:
But I STILL like the one I took with my camera:
In the back is Deb's Coupe, then anther dark Coupe, then a Blue Roadster. Standing around are the (Savannah sunday morning) "Crossfire Breakfast Club".
The only pic I have worthy of this thread was taken by Deb Walker:
But I STILL like the one I took with my camera:
In the back is Deb's Coupe, then anther dark Coupe, then a Blue Roadster. Standing around are the (Savannah sunday morning) "Crossfire Breakfast Club".
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Are those some kind of 'vanity' plates, or just a pop on for display? Join Date: Apr 2017
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
Hello everyone!
I have a 2004 in Blaze Red Crystal Pearl and I live in Canada. I have decoded some of the VIN and read much about the limited number making it into Canada. The VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 and was made in the USA and imported to Canada. I designed the custom exhaust and it made a huge improvement is performance and sound.
Crossfire.jpg
Crossfire exhaust.jpg
Crossfire exhaust middle.jpg
I have a 2004 in Blaze Red Crystal Pearl and I live in Canada. I have decoded some of the VIN and read much about the limited number making it into Canada. The VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 and was made in the USA and imported to Canada. I designed the custom exhaust and it made a huge improvement is performance and sound.
Crossfire.jpg
Crossfire exhaust.jpg
Crossfire exhaust middle.jpg
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
Thanks Ala_xfire.
I actually decoded the VIN on several sites and I did the decode manually with the kelp of jalopnik dot com in this artificial;
deadspin-quote-carrot-aligned-w-bgr-2
In the VIN the first 3 letters/numbers are Make/Model: (Digits 1-3) This breaks out the vehicle's make, model, and manufacturer. In my case the VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 with the 1 being the country where it was made/assembled. I also confirmed the information on a few sites including;
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindeco...inDecoderFarea
The first digit in the make code will always be the country of manufacture. There are numerous country codes, but the most common ones are:
I would encourage everyone to have a look. Might save you from a "lipstick on a pig" situation.
I actually decoded the VIN on several sites and I did the decode manually with the kelp of jalopnik dot com in this artificial;
deadspin-quote-carrot-aligned-w-bgr-2
In the VIN the first 3 letters/numbers are Make/Model: (Digits 1-3) This breaks out the vehicle's make, model, and manufacturer. In my case the VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 with the 1 being the country where it was made/assembled. I also confirmed the information on a few sites including;
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindeco...inDecoderFarea
The first digit in the make code will always be the country of manufacture. There are numerous country codes, but the most common ones are:
- USA: 1, 4 or 5
- Canada: 2
- Mexico: 3
- Japan: J
- Korea: K
- England: S
- Germany: W
- Italy: Z
- Sweden: Y
- Australia: 6
- France: V
- Brazil: 9
I would encourage everyone to have a look. Might save you from a "lipstick on a pig" situation.
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
Thanks Ala_xfire.
I actually decoded the VIN on several sites and I did the decode manually with the kelp of jalopnik dot com in this artificial;
deadspin-quote-carrot-aligned-w-bgr-2
In the VIN the first 3 letters/numbers are Make/Model: (Digits 1-3) This breaks out the vehicle's make, model, and manufacturer. In my case the VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 with the 1 being the country where it was made/assembled. I also confirmed the information on a few sites including;
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindeco...inDecoderFarea
The first digit in the make code will always be the country of manufacture. There are numerous country codes, but the most common ones are:
I would encourage everyone to have a look. Might save you from a "lipstick on a pig" situation.
I actually decoded the VIN on several sites and I did the decode manually with the kelp of jalopnik dot com in this artificial;
deadspin-quote-carrot-aligned-w-bgr-2
In the VIN the first 3 letters/numbers are Make/Model: (Digits 1-3) This breaks out the vehicle's make, model, and manufacturer. In my case the VIN is 1C3AN69L74X007275 with the 1 being the country where it was made/assembled. I also confirmed the information on a few sites including;
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindeco...inDecoderFarea
The first digit in the make code will always be the country of manufacture. There are numerous country codes, but the most common ones are:
- USA: 1, 4 or 5
- Canada: 2
- Mexico: 3
- Japan: J
- Korea: K
- England: S
- Germany: W
- Italy: Z
- Sweden: Y
- Australia: 6
- France: V
- Brazil: 9
I would encourage everyone to have a look. Might save you from a "lipstick on a pig" situation.
Check your drivers door (plaque), the manufacturer date, time, and place is on it. .
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
I find it funny that we have been here for years, eleven in my case and we have new people telling us the facts. I will admit that now and again we learn something new but 99% of the time the new facts are false. A little check will often find the actual truth.
Most problems, solutions and facts are on here somewhere, the trouble is that some threads are full of bad info, you just have to be careful of what you take as the truth. Rather like the present day I guess.
Most problems, solutions and facts are on here somewhere, the trouble is that some threads are full of bad info, you just have to be careful of what you take as the truth. Rather like the present day I guess.
Last edited by onehundred80; 04-17-2017 at 04:05 PM.
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
I find it funny that we have been here for years, eleven in my case and we have new people telling us the facts. I will admit that now and again we learn something new but 99% of the time the new facts are false. A little check will often find the actual truth.
Most problems, solutions and facts are on here somewhere, the trouble is that some threads are full of bad info, you just have to be careful of what you take as the truth.
Most problems, solutions and facts are on here somewhere, the trouble is that some threads are full of bad info, you just have to be careful of what you take as the truth.
Here is hoping (since the car is an export model) that the plaque (or is it a nomenclature plate) IS on an export? I would hate to have scrambled egg on my face (unless I was hungry, that is)... LMAO .
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Re: The Official "Blaze Red" C-R-O-S-S-F-I-R-E Photo Thread
When I retired to Flagstaff, I could really feel the change in altitude on the car. I would guess I lost 25% of my power running my standard engine and twin carbs configuration. So I made some mods.
I put in new gearing in the differential which helped with top end speed and actually gave me a usable first gear. I rebuilt the head to include new larger valves and ported and polished it. Those made a big difference so I went the extra mile and installed a modern supercharger. That increases the HP by about 50% to 75-80 HP. That is actually a SLK supercharger in a case made to look old style.
The combination of all those changes allows me to run the mountains without down shifting and to cruise the Interstate in the right lane at a respectable 65 to 70. I do not drive it at night or on holiday weekends.
In the TR3, I took a somewhat different approach. Rebuilt the engine to include a performance CAM and replaced the SUs with DCOE. It also handles the mountains well now.
In the TR 6 I just rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the timing using a old style vacuum gauge method and that runs fine.
If you drive old cars you need to modify them to meet modern standards. This winter the TD is getting disk brakes on the front.
Joe
I put in new gearing in the differential which helped with top end speed and actually gave me a usable first gear. I rebuilt the head to include new larger valves and ported and polished it. Those made a big difference so I went the extra mile and installed a modern supercharger. That increases the HP by about 50% to 75-80 HP. That is actually a SLK supercharger in a case made to look old style.
The combination of all those changes allows me to run the mountains without down shifting and to cruise the Interstate in the right lane at a respectable 65 to 70. I do not drive it at night or on holiday weekends.
In the TR3, I took a somewhat different approach. Rebuilt the engine to include a performance CAM and replaced the SUs with DCOE. It also handles the mountains well now.
In the TR 6 I just rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the timing using a old style vacuum gauge method and that runs fine.
If you drive old cars you need to modify them to meet modern standards. This winter the TD is getting disk brakes on the front.
Joe
Last edited by Hawk Monster; 10-04-2017 at 04:10 PM.