JoeP, don't overlook the steering stabilizer, brake fluid flush, maybe Goodrich SS brake lines while you are at it.
also diff oil change, PS fluid change and transmission fluid change if it's an automatic.
As to performance, 3 things :
74 MM throttle body,
EuroCharged tune ( on sale now at $100 off )
and a NeedsWings CAI ( Cold Air Intake )

 

Took the SSB roadster out for a cruise, 80 miles....yep, the CEL came back on as soon as it hit 250 miles from where I had reset it. Havent looked at the codes yet.
Changed out the crank position sensor on the black SRT and she cranks much better without spinning over forever and ever.

 

After installing the Black-ops injectors and doing a little run in to make sure it doesn't go lean near redline, I gave it a run!!! To my surprise it lowered it's 1/4 time by .18 and raised it's top end run by 3.4 mph. I didn't realize the lean condition was having that much effect on things.

 

Xfire is in shop having front bumper cover painted. Replaced broken fog lamp (note - new fog lamps don't have the domed cover over the light bulb). I had to remove rear bulb housing and use with new front lens. Replaced all H7 and H4 bulbs. Cleaned inside headlamps with Methanol. Unfortunately, even after following process either a residue remained on inside or the outside is flawed even though smooth to touch and no improvement with polish. Also had Paintless Dent Removal tech fix dents (awesome job by Dent Genie - Brandon Willis). Ordered 74mm TB and MB cover upgrade.

 

I painted the raised CROSSFIRE letters on the engine cover this morning. Also did some detailing on the drivers side of the engine compartment in front of the brake booster. It was pretty dirty down low, can't believe i didn't see it before now.


0826160933_zpsojrqdphw.jpg

 

Lowering certainly improved handling and looks. Brakes are sharper as well, money well spent.

Today I also changed my steering stabiliser (2007, 39k miles) and the difference is amazing. The old one didn't feel like it needed to be changed but I did so anyways and wow.

 

Attempted the alarm module fix. As it turned out both internal batteries were good, one was at 3.7v and the other at 3.5v
Anywho, while I was in there I cleaned out the leaves and debris, cleared out all the drains, found the caps to the wiper nuts 👍. Took out the blower fan and cleaned all the debris in the blower compartment, replaced the blower regulator since I was in there. Cleaned the cabin filter as best I could ( need to order a new one). Since the alarm module seems ok I'll need to assess the cause for my alarm going off. Also I had to use the Por15 system on my battery mount and the body panels under it. Seems my cheap Wal-Mart battery leaked acid. (second Wal-Mart battery in two years) Never had that problem with the original Varta battery which was around 9 years old.


Alarm looked in brand new condition

 

If not done already, try changing out the batteries in the key fob.
I use the Autocraft Gold Battery from Advance Auto Parts in both of my XFs with absolutely no problems.
Car Batteries, Truck Batteries, Auto Batteries
For cabin filter, I found that Walmart stocked the FRAM FRESH BREEZE® CABIN AIR FILTER - CF8770A.
It’s the only cabin air filter with Arm & Hammer baking soda and activated carbon embedded in the filter media that can help remove odors.
https://www.amazon.com/CF8770A-Fresh.../dp/B001CEJH84

 

Make sure you have the little plastic plug in the end of the battery against the firewall and the plastic vent in the front end of the battery.
These battery's vent gases all the time and liquid sometimes. A hot climate makes them vent even more.

Battery overflow in front vent hole. Better safe than sorry. This one come from the OEM Varta battery.

 

I kept the little reservoir from the Varta battery, it was overflowing...never occurred to plug the other end, thanks.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80;873185]Make sure you have the little plastic plug in the end of the battery against the firewall and the plastic vent in the front end of the battery.
These battery's vent gases all the time and liquid sometimes. A hot climate makes them vent even more.

Battery overflow in front vent hole. Better safe than sorry. This one come from the OEM Varta battery.




I improvised with a close fitting clear plastic hose, like older motorcycles, loose end secured in a tube shaped container, (& plug at firewall end).

 

I had my touch-up guy come out and take care of 12 years of minor scratched and road rash chips. He also repainted the faded wiper arms. Next week . . . curb rash on the wheels will be taken care of.
LOVE this car! He will attend his first car show tomorrow. My wife will drive it and I will take the Prowler, two cool Chryslers!

 

I finally decided to start looking for a replacement for the XF. The car will be up for sale shortly. I am looking to replace it with a 2012-2014 Genesis 4.6 or 5.0 sedan. The xf has to go since it doesn't fit a child care seat. It's been a great 2+ years with this one!

 

OK you modders! Mount a child seat in the rear, facing rearward. Kiddie will get quite a wild view and can even wave to all the peeps following too closely!


.

 

Finally got around to changing the transmission fluid and filter at 70K.
Not too bad of a job, and not messy at all if you use a Mityvac ( or similar ). - I have a MV7300 cause I'm lazy and don't want to pump.
Expect about 3.2 liters.

Here's how I did it :
1. Warm up the engine/transmission. Check the fluid level with an aftermarket dip stick to ensure you have the correct level.
Also mark the dipstick at the top of the fill tube when it is in all the way and touching the pan.
Transfer this marking to the Mityvac tube to ensure you get the tube in all the way to the pan.
2. Pull all of the fluid you can with a Mityvac.
3. Raise the car and remove the oil pan ( T20 Torx ), catch any remaining fluid in a drip pan.
4. Add the drip pan fluid to the Mityvac, then mark the fluid level.
5. Change out the filter, clean up the pan and magnet and reassemble torquing to 71 inch/pounds.
6. Dump the Mityvac into any old container ( should be about 3.2 liters ), then clean out the Mityvac - I used a tiny bit of gasoline and dried the inside with compressed air.
7. Pour the new fluid into Mityvac up to the mark you made.
8. Pour into transmission using a transmission funnel , you are ALL DONE !

( no measuring required, you put the same amount back that you took out )

 

OK, did you stick the hose down the tranny fill tube? I assume you did, I thought that the dip stick hit a shelf which was above the pan bottom, am I wrong?
I think you should check the level of the fluid preferably after doing the oil change just in case you were low to start with.
I will add this in .pdf form to the Index of Crossfire repairs after the answers.
I try and get all the info in these to avoid someone getting it all wrong, we have seen wrong interpretations of posts too many times.

 

I first used an aftermarket oil dip stick to determine the length from the top of the fill tube to the oil pan.
I then marked the Mityvac hose at this point to make sure it was getting to the pan. Yes, there was a kinda catch at about 4" from bottom, but I was able to get the pipe past that.
You are correct on the check after, but I had already checked and ensured I was not low before I started. ( when I was measuring the length ).

BTW, this is NOT a "full flush", old fluid remains in the torque converter and oil cooler lines to the radiator.
I have read however that if you do this, then do it again after driving a bit that you will have changed out about 90% of the old fluid.
Don't know that I'll do that though.

 

Dropped ole' blue off at my mechanic's shop. On the way over the old IC pump failed. That sucked. Taking the rear apart, changing the gearing, TCU retune, and maybe a valve body change since I'm doing a tranny flush the old way. Taking the pan off and getting a tranny fluid bath..lol. I may finally get this car finished in time to test and tune, before we go to the 1/2 mile shoot out in French Lick Indiana on Oct 16th. Fingers crossed.

 

Replaced the outside mirror switch in the center console. Could not have done it without the forum articles and photos from other members. I had to guess a little bit on removing the cover over the "automatic transmission" area. The photos were posted for the manual transmission but I took my time and figured it out.


BTW I purchased my replacement switch from an Ebayer. Brand new for $27.50 shipped ! I had put out feelers in the used parts sector and was getting quotes for $125.00 for a used "factory" switch. Not gonna happen. Switch was an exact match and it popped right in. Now I have electric outside mirrors.


While I had the console out I took out my cup holder and am going to replace it with "the bin". If anyone is interested in the cup holder send me a message. It needs some repair, I guess, but it functions as a cup holder for the most part. Just a little sloppy going back down. If you're handy it could be just what you are looking for.


Thanks again.

 

So today I had the pleasure of doing the Sticky key fix the hard way. Steering wheel was locked up tight, no ability to turn the key at all. The breakdown was super easy to get to the lock, that is when things got a bit more difficult. It took 3 dremel tips to eat the lock before I was able to get the ignition out of the dash, but was relatively painless. Reassembly was a piece of cake and the pretty lady is back in action. I can say with out a doubt that after this ordeal I would advise any owner that has not done the sticky key mod to do it as soon as possible as it would have been an easy 30 minute job without all the drilling. All said and done it took about 2 hours with the drilling etc to get the job done.