Sorry about that WonderMellon. I was planning on ordering one but never needed to as I was able to repair mine.

I used the "center the voice coil" method in the video and it worked great. Good luck, hope it goes well for you.

Just curious, anyone try using the Bose speaker that came in the SLK320?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-2004-ME...ZV1RhO&vxp=mtr

 

I wonder how many ohms it is. You could bridge the 2 connections from our wiring and feed it more power.

 

Fairly certain it is 2 ohms. I saw it mentioned in several places on the SLK forums. This thread specifically states dual voice coils as well (a couple of different times).

Moron's guide to aftermarket head unit installation - MBWorld.org Forums

"Since the stock sub is dual voice coil I have run both coils in parallel bridged at 2ohm which the amp is compatible with."

 

I bought one, I will let you know if it is a direct plug in and how it works.

 

I don't think the speaker in that eBay ad is dual coil. I only see 1 pair of wires.

 

I ordered another repair kit to try and re-repair the passenger side. Hopefully I can get the newly glued foam off without too much fuss.

 

On the plus side, you are still cheaper than buying a new one, and you get 2 more tries.

 

Just wanted to post a follow up. The bose speaker I ordered was not dual coils as poineer4x4 pointed out. I thought on one of the pictures I saw a second set of wires, but he is correct.

Anyway, same housing, same size - if I ever get a chance I will see if it plugs directly in, but I already assume it will be much quieter.

 

I bet if you run both pairs to the single connections it will be fine (assuming it can handle the power). Our cars don't use dual coil subwoofers the "normal " way, with left and right going to the same speaker.

 

Ok, as a final follow up I figured I would add a retrospective post.


I ordered a new set of speaker surrounds. The driver side sounds fine, so I left that one alone. The passenger side needed to be redone so I cut away the new foam between the cone and the frame. I was able to scrape the frame down fairly well, but the adhesive (seemed like contact cement) I used on the 1st repair was really strong on the cone. While I wasn't able to get rid of 100% of the surround on the cone, I was able to scrape a good portion off, maybe 80% or so. My thinking was that if it would not loosen with chemicals and a razor, it really wasn't in danger of falling off during use. Once I was done scraping I went around one last time with rubbing alcohol.


The new new repair kit came with a different adhesive. Instead of clear contact cement, this one was a black tar like stuff. I centered the newest surround and applied the adhesive to the edge of the cone. Then I cut the tip off of a Q-Tip and used just the stick part to gently push down the surround until it was secure all the way around. It took 3 or 4 revolutions before I was confident it was completely secure.


I then hooked the speaker up to a computer sound system and put a test tone through it per the post from ATX above (see page 1 of this post). The amp for the computer speakers really didn't have the oomph to push the Crossfire subwoofer, so I had to use a tone closer to 100HZ instead of 50HZ, but the process worked amazingly well. The surround went on fine and I used the T-Qip stick method for attaching the surround to the frame as well. I noticed that it was a tad off center and as I pushed the surround in a few places the I could hear the scraping very easily, so it was just a matter of not pushing the surround so far. It took me maybe 5 or 10 minutes and listening to that tone was quite annoying, but it worked great. If I ever have to repair another speaker surround, that is the method I am going to use.


Attaching the speaker to the frame and putting it back in the car was a snap. The speaker sounds great and I am loving the new sound system! It was a bit of an aggravation due to my mistake the with the first repair, but I think I not only ended up saving some money, but it seems like the stock subs are really the best option.


Thanks everyone for your help. Hopefully this post can help others in the future. It may be a sticky job, but in the end it is not that tough and it really does make the sound system sound great again!

 

ATX SRT B6,
"'I've tried it with each of my Alpine CDA-7897 and CDA-9855. They sound much better than the stock radio but the amp still sounds bad. There's some kind of limiter too in the amp that clamps the signal when I try to use the EQ and MX features in the Alpines." This !!!! I installed the Alpine CDA-9886M head unit. Fade is completely inop and virtually NONE of the EQ functions are worth squat. Balance and volume are about the only things functional. Friend of mine cut the front/rear splice point at the amp and ran new RCA cables to separate the rear subs from door speakers. Additionally the Sirius/XM and CD volume CRANK. Same volume with the tuner..... WEAK !!! Head unit amp is OFF so the cars amp should be driving the speakers. Will installation of the amp you listed cure any/most/all this/these ??

Tim

 

The stock amp has a Sharc Processor in it with using software that's "optimized" for the OEM radios. Hence the signal compression when trying to use the MX and EQ.

The Alpine radio 4 Volt preamp out will just barely provide enough signal. I have to turn the volume up to the max to get a decent volume. I thought about using the speaker outs to drive the amp although it might not sound clean.

Using an aftermarket amp will make it easier to use an aftermarket radio. You can set the gains to match the preamp outs. I've measure the outputs on my Alpine's using a 1Khz signal and an o'scope. No distortion will the volume turned up all the way up.

Those little Kenwoods should work fine. I picked up Power Acoustic RZ4-2000, (same amp as the Soundstream PN4.520D) on clearance that I'm going to install.

Incidentally, if you have a coupe there's a lot of wasted space in the hatch area behind the fender well covers. It would make a good place to mount a small amp.

 

sub replacement update -------just did mine one thing I learned that I didnt see in my research ,, if u want to use al oem stuff dual voice coil plug n play ? take out oem sub there will b a plastic 1/2 inch spacer on top of sub remove it carefully stuck down use aplpw6d 6 sub woofer place spacer underneath speaker replace stock screws with 1/14 inch self tappers put in waaalaaa no cutting no modifying,,,remember the magnet is whats gona give u problems usually the better the speaker the bigger the magnet,,,this worked for me fyi I did drill out the 3 souround nut holes a little bigger on plastic case just to make it a little easier on my self for fitment , heads up for repairer guy u blow cone soon 12-15 year old speakers!!