Does anyone know how many amps the spoiler motor draws? I'm assuming its around 10-15 since the wire is 16 gauge, but would like some confirmation.

 

I don't think it is all that much. Pretty easy to measure - yank the trim off, open one side and insert an ammeter.

I SUSPECT the fuse (which varies from year to year, I found out this spring) supplies power to more than the motor, but you could measure the flow thru it while the motor is running versus when the motor is NOT running and you'd know.

In the 05 Limited, it was fuse 20 in the underhood fuse box. It's different in '04 - I cant remember which one it was, but it IS different in 04's.

 

To add to PG's post, if there is more being 'fused' by the spoiler fuse locaton, I would go ahead and test (using the DC ammeter) at the fuse location. Don't know what your reasoning is for asking the question, but I can offer some additional information. Have someone cycle the spoiler 'UP', then 'DOWN' with the meters operational and the car runnniing. It (the current measured) should be approximately the same during both operations. If there is a marked difference, something may be binding. Knowing the voltage supplied (requiring a second 'voltmeter' while at idling speed), and the current measured with the ammeter, you can evaluate the fuse size installed. Please do not put a higher fuse in the circuit, fix whatever is causing the 'possible binding' so your circuitry is safe as designed. IF the spoiler is NOT causing high current draw, then you have something else (another circuit) pulling any higher load (if your blowing fuses, remember I don't know why you were asking the original question). I'll try to see if my 08 service manual can tell me if there is anything else after the spoiler fuse, in the circuit with the spoiler motor. Hope this additional information helps!

 

I have a Miata trunk that was modified to incorporate a roadster spoiler, it did not come with a switch. Looking to wire it up using a power window switch and adding a circuit to power it . Since the wires powering the motor are 16 gauge I'm guessing the draw is less than 10 amps (probably closer to 5) There is no BCM and trying to activate based on speed like the XF is way too complicated and probably expensive. The integral limit switches are controlled through the BCM so I'm planning to use the Autoloc wc1000 to provide an auto up/auto down function in lieu of the limit switches

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...xacWF4bms5elJn

 

Yea, I thought that was what we were talking about (again)...........

I've gotta say, NICE BODY WORK!

 

Yep! Very nice.

And we think WE got issues with people askin' "What is that"?"

 

Looks "Factory" to me. Beautiful job Sprite.

 

Yea, but now people are going to be going to their local dealers looking for "one of those Miatas that the little wing goes up...." and the salesperson will look like this: