I'm about to install a new head unit and the Infinity Reference 6500CX component speaker system. Is this mod still worth doing?

 

Probably not.

 

Hey, long time lurker here. Just wanted to say thanks to the genius who came up with this. If you haven't done this mod already, do it guys. It takes 15 minutes and $5 and literally changes everything

 

Hi, i m asking just for be sure. This one should work? its 200UF/500V. Im little concerned about that high voltage TE 050-1 200uF/500V

i also found 220 UF/385V. that sound better but stil 385v is much more than yours 65/100v

 

Hi,
High voltage raiting of 500v is not a problem, it just makes the capacitior physically bigger than it needs to be. Ideal rating should be around 30v.

 

hi again, so i'm gonna do this once more with 330uF 35V because i think that rear subs doesnt cover the full frequency range i lost with 220uF in front speakers. But i occurred really annoying phone signal interfiering noise after this mod so my questions is does anybody have some tip on good audio shield tape? or should i just use tin foil from my kitchen ? thanks

 

I got 2.2 mf non polarized from radio shack and when I put them on I get very little sound at all coming from the speakers.
also found out the tweeters are producing very little and the subs are not working at all, only sound I get is from the door speakers.
just bought the car last weekend , lots to diagnose!
the subs are torn around the gasket but they don't vibrate at all.

 

So I recently bought My Roadster and I didn't like the sound of the stereo and I figured it's because it didn't have this mod such as I had done in my Coupe years ago from the information in this thread

So when I went to install my capacitors I found these in there already.
The previous owner had put them in.
The ones in there are the ones in black shown here which are 330 UF 100 V
The ones I installed are the small blue ones which are 220 UF 25 V and it sounds much better
So what are the differences between all these ?
I still don't understand other than the final sound that comes from the speakers.
photo427.jpg

 

When you say "sounds much better", what sounds better? Do you have more bass? Louder without distortion? More punch from the subs? What is better and what kind of music are you listening to? I am guessing that the lower value cap is allowing more bass to the door speakers and maybe giving you a fuller sound? Is it possible that the previous owner replaced the door speakers with a better unit that could handle more bass and never knew it because of the caps?

 

The smaller the capacitor (that is, the less microfarads) the less bass they pass. I have found that 270s or 220s seem to be optimum.

 

He has less bass in the tweeters, so the highs are not as distorted by the wide movement of the speaker cone when low frequencies are present in the music. That is what the mod is all about, getting the bass OUT of the tweeters so the highs (that tweeters are intended to replicate) are cleaner. We then depend on the midrange (lower door speaker) and rear speakers for the bass - as it should be.

Asking a very small speaker to reproduce bass can be an issue when the design did not call for it.

 

I think what Mark has described here is the improvement I'm hearing
I'm listening to 80's & 90's pop/rock music primarily
A cleaner crisp sound from the doors and about the same nice kick from the base speakers behind my seats
Same way it sounded in my Coupe with the 220uf / 25v capacitors

 

This modification in my Coupe made a world of difference with the sound system. For just a few bucks, I didn't have to pursue getting another car stereo unit to improve performance. No more than I drive the Coupe, this provided all the improvement I needed. During the road trip to Eureka Springs last month, even Roberta stated that the car stereo sound was much improved.

 

Yea, it made the Graphite's system sound so much better.

 

Does anyone have a current link to the correct capacitors needed to do this mod. I need one for each door panel. If I understand correctly they need to be 220uF non-polarized (25v-100v rated).

 

You can get away with 270s or 330s - the larger ones allow a bit more bass up front, but I ran 330s in my second Crossfire and liked the sound.

YOu don't need non-polarized, it's just that polarized will fail way sooner than non-polarized.

Try this link:
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/no...apacitors/1385