2 weeks ago, I bought a gorgeous White Roadster from Long Island, New York and I brought it to Montreal, Canada. Today, I went to Canadian Tire to have the Daytime Running light installed and the RIV inspection as well. I have now everything ready for registeration but I notice on my way back that the Light Outage Indicator warning light is light up in my dash. Anybody knows if it's normal?

 

Thats the result of wiring the DRL directly into a lighting circuit or a relay wired to a lighting circuit. You have changed the pre-determined resistance in the circuit and this results in the bulb-out indicator. Apparently the only way around this is to purchase the CDN version Headlight switch module. How much did Crappy tire charge you to wire up DRL's ?

Ps Congrats on the car!!!!

 

$174, module & tax included...

 

It's the cheaper route since I paid $432 plus taxes for the Cdn. version headlight switch that I imstalled myself. However, I do not have a bulb out indicator light on.

 

It may be pure coincidence but maybe you have a light out somewhere on the car;

have you checked your lights?

 

Also check the license plate lights ..... a lot of people forget about those little guys.

 

Congrats on the new car. I bought mine in Detroit, and had my favourite mechanic install the CTC kit. Same results - my bulb out indicator light is always on. I've decided to live with it.
Enjoy the car.

 

Well, two people, same problem, same circumstances; sounds like the DRL change
is the cause.

BTW, I remember a suggestion quite awhile ago for the indicator light staying on and "living with it".............put a little bit of black electrical tape over that light, ' no see, not there'!

Begs the question though.............what in heck did we ever do without all those indicator lights on the dash?

 

Cool, i'm glad to know that I am not alone with the problem!!!

 

I know this might be a bit off topic, but since the conversation about DRL's come up a fair bit, i thought i would just add this small tidbit for anyone who might have used it. I know im a happy camper in the DRL department

Before i bought my car, i knew the price of the DRL switch assembly, just so i wasnt surprised of its price if i was in a bit of a pickle and just had to bite the bullet and buy one. But regardless, i knew that there has got to be a way around it that 1. is relatively cheap (ie a relay or such), and 2. doesnt tick off/damage the current lighting system. 3. saves me 500$ so i can spend it on other goodies for the car.

So for most cars, DRL's are basicaly the high beams with a reduced voltage. For the X-fire i have no ideal because i havent seen any cnd version ones with DRL's on that i noticed. So after speaking with a few of the guys that do the RIV, and doing some research. You can pass the DRL test, if any of the lights turn on when the key is turned to ignition. The factory module i beleive turns the lights on once the engine is started and the parking brake is released. But its not a requriement, as far as i know .

So i decided to bury myself in the wiring diagrams for the car, to see what i can dig up. Really my reason for not buying the switch is because if the DRL's were a reduced voltage for the highbeams, it would tick off my hid's that i plan on installing. Plus i want full control over my lights

Ok so, apart comes the dash, and my Dad and I dig in to the light switch.

So what i wanted to do was control my fogs as the DRL,.. fogs turn on when the key is turned on. Plus, just having fogs on just looks cooler during the day IMO
Also if wanting to wire up the bulbs in the headlights (ie, lows or high) each headlight bulb is on its own seperate fuse, so its a bit more complex. The fogs both share a common line source.

Originaly i was also going to wire it up so they turn off when the parking brake is engaged, but to pull the center console apart just looked like a bit of a task, plus i didint want to take anything apart that didnt need to come apart on this new car.


So..One picture tells 1000 words.



Ok first off, this is no ways a mean for completely installing a proper DRL system, but it allows you to pass the test for the price of a good inline fuse and your time. If you dont mind having your fogs on all the time when your driving. then this is the way to go.

The prink wire is the switched source for the light housing. So when the key is on, its live, and feeds right to the fogs. Slot 9 is the fog fuse, the top pin goes to the lights, the bottom pin is the manually switched + from the switch.

So for me, the next day, did the RIV, passed with flying colours, did the E-test, got 0.00 emissions , inspection.. And i was all good to go!


Once i was done, pulled the wire out, and put it back to the way it was. I always remeber to turn my lights on before i take off, so having "working" drl's is no need for me. but if you ever plan on selling your car in the near future, a proper drl moduel is recomended. I will never sell my car so it wont be a problem.

Now for those who may ask if this will tick off the Bulb Out, sensor. I beleive it doesnt, reason i dont know is because when i had the dash apart, i took the "Bulb Out" light out, so in the future when i install my HID's with relays to seperate them from the lighting system to pervent any damage to the light switch assembly, the bulb out light wont come on..

So as far as i can remember. (installed the cnd tire drl moduel on my aunts intrepid) it taps into the harness right before the bulb. so on the Xfire it ticks off the Bulb Out sensor down stream (feeding + backwards to the sensor, not allowng it to check for a bulb load). With wiring it into the harness at the switch, should not cause the Bulb Out to come on, because the Bulb out sensor it between the light switch and the headlights.

Woah.. out of breath.. lol

 

I need to understand how the Canadian Tire DRL solution works for an '05 Crossfire that I will bring back this week. The Canadian Tire in Sarnia tells me that they do not have a DRL module that will work on the Crossfire and that they can't do it! At first, they said yes, $40 + $85 labour. Today, they called me to say they could not do it and that I needed to call the Sarnia Chrysler dealer at over $600 for the module. OUCH!

Now, various Chrysler dealers give me differing answers about DRL. The Toronto dealers want to sell me a new $600 module. Some US dealers say that it is a matter of connecting a computer and reprogramming it to turn them on. The Chrylser dealer that I bought this car from says that even if it was possible, that they are not permitted to do it!

I've got HAMSAR engineers (they make the Can Tire aftermaket module) looking at the wiring schematic for the XFire to see what product they have for me and how to install it.

Meanwhile, I've contacted Chrylser directly for their advisement as to whether or not the car was built with a programmable module which could be controlled for turning on the DRLs. I don;t know what to expect there.

I really thought that the Canadian Tire solution was going to be straight forward. I'm at a complete loss on this. Can anyone tell me what Canadian Tire they went to, what product they purchased and what the cost is? I am fine with the "bulb monitoring" light being covered up as long as the DRLs work! I bring it over at the end of the week and other than this problem - I'm really looking forward to it! Is there anyone in Toronto or vicinity that can do this with reliability and certainty?
Thanks in advance,
John

John

 

There are a couple of ways to do a cheap fix if you can arrange it.
The first is to borrow a Canadian switch for the test and take it out after a pass.
The second is to find a Canadian that wants to permanently replace his Canadian switch with a US switch.
Find a scrapped Canadian car, that might be tough though
The switch has to be changed it is not a matter of reprogramming.

 

HI John

Go to that link:

Canadian Tire No Daytime Running Light System : Questions, Answers, How To, FAQs, Tips, Advice, Answers, Buying Guide

This is the module that has been installed on my 2005 Roadster Crossfire 8 weeks ago and it works perfectly!!!

$39 for the module and $90 for installation... that'it!!!

 

+1
Been there, done that.

 

Looks to me like Sik SRT-6 has the solution here - economical & will run the fog lights only. CTC Sarnia must know about the dash light warning, and are backing off because of it. But their module will work well enough to pass the RIV if you can live with the warning light. And all you need to do is remove the fuse from it later, and all goes back to normal.
Hey John - you're bringing the car through Sarnia? Windsor is good too - they really know what they're doing there.

 

John ,
Sent you a private message.

 

The solution to DRL's is really quite easy and inexpensive.

As Canadian Tire first indicated, there are a number of off-the-shelf DRL kits to be had for under forty USD. And, yes, it takes less than an hour to install. So, yes, you can install the kits yourself and have your DRL's up and running in no time.

Just surf the web and you'll find several kits available. Personally, I prefer to use the fog lamps as DRL's, as they are easiest to connect and look the best .-. a nice wide stance appearance. Just apply a wee bit of black tape over the dash light bulb-out indicator.

So belay all of the discussion about the 800 USD Chrysler switch modules. OUCH. If you mechanically inclined at all, you can have your DRL's for under forty.

 

This is an awesome post Sik SRT-6 - Thanks for saving me hundreds of dollars when I buy a crossfire from the USA. Was there anything else you need to do to pass RIV inspection? Also can you tell me where you went to get your RIV inspection as they seem to have pushed your process right through and I am close (Burlington). Any other tips on bringing in a crossfire from the US. Did you have to pay any duty or pay the US federal or state tax and canadian tax?

Thanks again for the great post & info.

Steve

 

Is it so secret that you cannot share the info with the rest of us? It is an oldish post.
Cheap way out is to borrow someones module for the test and then give it back to them.

 

Sorry my first time posting on a forum - i didn't realize i only sent the post to you. I think swithching out modules is probably harder than just running one wire with a fuse like your pic. & then remooving it, I think that fix is genius & just what I'm looking for.

Thanks again for sharing that info.

Steve