There's some rust just barely starting here on mine - a few bubbles, and some light surface rust. So my plan was hit it with a wire wheel.
Then:

Then:
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Should this be sufficient?

 

I'd use a good paint that covers rust.

 

I have two concerns.

1. The space is very tight and a spray can may not work - sloppy and may not cover completely.

2. Use a product that both neutralizes and covers to prevent future rust. If you are going to keep the car for a while you may need to reapply unless you use a quality product designed for this purpose. I applied mine with a flux brush after I masked the edges.

 

@Hawk Monster...what do you use, sir?

 

I wouldn't have thought to use a brush, as dumb as that probably sounds. Thanks!

So rust neutralizer, then paint just like any other body pieces...

 

I used this. It is a one step product. I have NO financial interest in this.

Rust Inhibitor Paint & Corrosion Converter Remover ? Rust Bullet

This am I will take a picture of a floor pan I worked on with this product. Smallest size did entire floor pan. You can see the details.

Not very computer adapt. Do not load pictures to this forum from my IPod.

 

Sorry just went to take a picture and remembered I covered it with heat/sound damper film so you can not see the actual results.

By the way color does not matter. It gets covered. You may need a little silicon spray to get the rubber back in. I used a pop stick as a pusher.

 

Is there a consensus as to how and what to use for this problem?

 

an old school long term under body or hidden rust location is to use some Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and spread over the area in question, Sounds weird but I can say with personal experience that it stops/blocks rust from that area for years, and coming from Ottawa, Canada where they put more salt on our roads than they do in a jar of Planters Peanuts...

 

Petroleum based lubricants usually have a detrimental effect on rubber products. (There's a reason condom manufactures recommend using KY jelly type lubricants).

 

Hey all, finally got the time and money to take care of my 04. I've been neglecting her for awhile, but after the RCM/CPS failed, I didn't have a choice.
After browsing around and seeing this thread, went out to pull the rubbers... and sure enough, the rust was bad. Only 50k miles.
Just posting to say, after I bit of research, I decided to:
1) Wire brush off what rust that I could
2) Clean the areas with 2 coats of Naval Jelly (you can find this at lowe's/home depot)
3) Apply 2 coats of Rust Bullet (had to order from amazon, the tiny can was more than enough)
4) Let it dry all day with fans before replacing the seals

Some tips:
Use proper protection (gloves, trash clothes, drop cloth) while painting the Rust Bullet. It does NOT come off skin for a long time, and it's permanent on everything else.
Have a wet rag ready in case you get any on the rest of the car.
I used the butt end of an old metal spoon to push the seals back in. It's not easy to do it right, especially on the corners.

 

Hi,

Sorry to revive this thread but I am a potential owner from the UK and just want to make sure I find any rust before buying (negotiating tool) is it only under the doors that are prone? should I ask the dealer if he can pull the seal away to check?

Also what would a rough cost be for me to get any rust issues fixed professionally?

Thanks

 

Other points are inside the fenders (wings) along the lip at the edge of the fender liner, it catches dirt and thus moisture, so keep that area clean. Another area is the bottom surface of the trunk lid (boot) or hatch where the license plate lights are.
They are not prone to too much rust.
Cost is hard to nail down, so look for and avoid rusty cars, low mileage is the best option generally. The steel is pretty heavy gauge so it takes longer to get eaten through. In the UK the fender (wing) lips seem to be a weak area for rust as I remember.

 

I must tell you of a hard to find product to kill rust that I found to be a great product. This is an aerosol product by Duplicolor (owned by Sherin Williams) called Rust Fix. It goes on clear and remains clear only if it does not come in contact with rust, then it turns black. This product neutralizes then seals the rust from further oxidation. A wire brush or wire wheel is recommended first before application. Naval jelly and Ospho are old school products, this is easy to work with and runs about 7.00 a can. Although I am not a rust expert, dealing with the Vega restoration project has taught me a lot about rust.

 

So, I'm assuming this is a common problem? What's the remedy? This is the hatch mechanism.

 

Guessing this is a common problem area? It's the hatch / latch mechanism. Anyone else have this? Solutions? Thanks...

 

I leave my car in Florida at my vacation home then fly down. It was a California car. I can't wait to get back down there and check it out. Last month when I was down there I had it on the rack changing the oil and wanted to see how clean It is staying underneath but never thought to open the doors. shame on me! Thanks Andrew

 

I leave my car in Florida at my vacation home then fly down. It was a California car. I can't wait to get back down there and check it out. Last month when I was down there I had it on the rack changing the oil and wanted to see how clean It is staying underneath but never thought to open the doors. shame on me! Thanks Andrew

 

Is there an echo in here?
That is another good reason not to wash your car too often, l beat my own record this year by only washing it twice.

 

When I see rust like that I think that the seal around the spoiler mounting plate has given up the ghost, the drain tubes for the fixed spoiler have come away from the drain holes or the SRT fixed spoiler mounts are leaking. Get it fixed or the hatch will open all by itself one day.