I drove my car for 2 months in 90% limp mode because I was jobless and couldn't afford the pump :*(

But it won't harm your car.

It will just be weaker than a 1992 Nissan Sentra with a siezed piston!

 

Just a caution here. While "limping" mine the same day of the first hint of problems.. she broke a leg and limped no more before getting home. If you attempt this at least have your repair/fix it kit on board. Thats the thing about these.. you might get that 120 miles home.. you might get two blocks down the street.

 

I know you guys are right. I 100% know you guys are right and I trust everyone on this forum a million times more than I trust anyone at a dealership. I WISH I had a day to go do this but for me, getting a weekday off work in near impossible in the summertime.

I called the dealer, they said they were still looking to see if it was "one of two sensors or the wiring leading to them."

JiggityJosh, I called like you suggested and asked them what the code reader said. They said they don't have anything yet from the code reader. I said, "How the Hell do you not have a code from the code reader? That's the FIRST thing you should have done!"


Anyway, I have to go to work in a few minutes so I won't be able to update here until late tonight but I think we all know where this is heading.

I don't know anything about "Limp mode". If I could've got it to start and move under its own power, it'd be home right now - even if I had to drive 20 mph for 120 miles. When the car died, it wouldn't start again.


Thanks guys. It's nice to know I'm not 100% on my own with this. I REALLY appreciate your advice and knowledge. Thank you~

Dave

 

There goes my max care warranty. It is useless. MWasted money since the dealership can't fix this problem.

 

Sure wished I would have had it.. was tough coughing up the 65 bucks to fix mine.. and back on the road withing 2 hours.

Edit: Wife had to pick up my cps and bring my tools.. 45 minute drive with visit to auto parts store..
Edit.. Edit.. good 30 minutes trying to restart.. along with a bottle of water for the cps for one last attempt at breath..

 

Actually, if you have that warranty - what do YOU care what they do, since all the modules and wasted labor are covered by the warranty!

 

I know... I was just trying to be sarcastic. I would end up with every electronic component replaced for free!

 

$367 (before tax) to diagnose, purchase and replace the crankshaft positioning sensor. Actually, in theory, that's not too bad considering the dealer wants $267 for the part.
I know I can buy it significantly cheaper pretty much elsewhere but all things considered, there's not much you can do when the car broke down 2 hours away and you've got to work every day.

I'm going to pick it up early tomorrow morning and make the trek home, fingers crossed that the CPS was the only issue ~

Thanks a MILLION everybody for your invaluable help and advice and experience. The people on this forum are fantastic!

Thank you all again,

Dave

 

Funny way to look at it - everytime they take something apart that they do not know very well, there is a good chance it will not go back together perfectly like it was from the factory. IMHO I would not let them near my car, everytime they 'fix' something there is a new rattle or loose connection...

 

Whats the next step after RCM and CPS. The cps was changed out yesterday, on the freeway in LA today and the engine dropped to idle. Had to turn off and restarted and off we go with no problems this morning. Cant wait for the drive back. This problem happens almost daily. Pulled the RCM( as outlined by tighed1) 2 months ago and soldier joints were cracked as described . Resoldered them, same problem. Desoldered and resolder, same problem. Resolder everything on the relay, same problem. Cleaned relay contacts 3 times. Relay seems to only switch when air pump is operating on cold starts. Pulled RCM out after test drive and the relay in question was no where near as hot as the other relays. How often does this relay open or close? Resoldered joints again to confirm good contact last week.

 

When it dies, is it dead at the "cranking" position? If not.. did you go Bosch on the CPS? Getting a Check Engine Light?

 

I think a few questions have to be answered so you get the best advise. When I 1st read the start of this thread...engine quit, left me on the side of the road. I took that to mean "no crank" which lead me to believe RCM...but after I answered here comes the CPS advise...which means it must be cranking "no start".... Give us all the details when you are having problems... Like it quits and goes to limp mode.... RCM, CPS, problems will not put you into limp mode. CPS will give you signs with hard starts, rough idles, and quit all together, but will allow you to crank the motor. RCM symtoms are it will quit, and not crank over. Let it set for awhile, and it will start and run for awhile until hot again. Eventually, it will never start.... Limp mode, could be a throttle sensor problem....could be some other things... but my point is, give us all the symptoms....it will be easier for us all to sort out, rather than me or any others giving bad advise...

 

I appreciate the help very much. The car goes into limp mode or idle. At first I would feather the throttle and it would jump to life but at risk of launching into the car in front. Now when it goes to limp, just turn it of and it cranks and fire almost immediately. maybe require a second attempt. When its cold and it idling in the driveway it will sputter and die but starts right back up. Took it up a very steep hill to see if it craps put at high rpm and it did cough a couple of times but very minor. The error code is map sensor, high and low voltage detected. I think it was p0103 Scanner said it was pending??? The more I think about it the more it sounds like mas. Any tests that can isolate the problem. Got a nice Bosch cps installed and over kill on the soldered rcm

 

The N/A's guys will have to jump in on the that code...SRT's don't have them..

 

hi everibody, I'm Alessandro from Italy and my Crossfire Coupe '05 has the same problem. I add that I have the same problem always when it rain. I changed the CPS but i didn't solve it. Now I will try to check the RCM.
Any Other advice? I'm desperate for 2 years.
My Crossfire die when it rain

 

Two places you might check one is in the trunk or you might call it the boot , check the central locking mechanism under the mat on the passenger side and see if it is wet, also check the floor board on the passenger side and see if it is wet, if either or both are wet then there are multiple threads that will tell you how to deal with both. Just use the search bar.

 

Thanks a lot kingdavid. i will check everything you suggest to me.
I hope I will not need to come back here, if not right for thanks.