Hi, i'm waiting for my 74mm TB, MAF, and O-ring to come in the mail. I have an 05 auto limited and I've been looking around at some threads and noticed people have been having idle surging problems and what not. is this a common occurrence?

 

I installed the 74 mm TB 3 years ago and have not had a single problem.

 

Not common, remember to use the old MAF sensor or you will have problems.

 

After going through the issue myself and finding no less than 10 others who have as well, I would say you are incorrect in your statement about it not being common.

I used the old MAF, new O-ring and did everything according to plan, had issues for 2-3 weeks, then after about 10-15 hours of troubleshooting and going back to stock 2 seperate times, it finally just corrected itself, very strange, but these MB ECUs can be that way...

 

I heard about yours of course and a few others and with all those that changed I figured it was quite rare. Mine was no prob at all and I wonder how many did something wrong, who knows.

 

I ordered a new MAF so it'd be the 74mm as well. Do you think that'll cause idle problems?

 

Many problems have been reported with using the 74 mm MAF with the 74 MM TB. You should use the OEM 68 MM MAF.

 

i just ordered the 74mm MAF. Would the eurocharge tune fix the idle if i decide to use the 74mm MAF?

 

I purchased one a year ago and installed it - took half an hour before the idle smoothed out and then it worked fine. But when I accelerated I noticed a difference in the exhaust sound and lost the deep throaty pitch my XF made under full acceleration. I put the stock one back on. Now that I just ordered the Eurocharge kit I am going to throw it back on and hopefully my deep exhaust sound will not be lost.

 

Good question since I have both MAFs and just ordered the Eurocharge too.

 

Follow the instructions, use the old MAF, new O-ring on the TB and if you do have idle issues, the car will work itself out, just drive it. That is, of course, if it was done correctly.

 

We should be more specific;
Use the old OEM/68mm(?) MAF sensor in the 75mm MAF body.
Do not damage it, do not put your fingers on the metal. It is a pain to remove from the old MAF body.
Use a new O-ring and do not forget to put the vacuum lines on.
Mine never even hiccuped.

 

Don't forget to remove the NEG cable fro the battery first. You must use the old MAF sensor in the new MAF housing. The screws can be hard to get out but you can get them. A new 'O' ring at the TB/manifold junction is a must as well. Careful the 'O' ring slips out of the groove causing problems. Careful on the torque as well on the TB. After making sure all the hoses are correctly reattached, rehook the battery up and start car. It will be rough (majority of the times) for a few as the ECU relearns the new TB. Do a throttle reset, and go for a spin. My install went without a hitch and never gave me a problem past the ECU relearn.

 

BoilerUpXfire (John)
Mrmiata (Greg)

Want to thank you guys for the tip to just run the car... the surging/rough idle has gone..really runs smooth and I love the "pull".....Thanks...Carl

 

I had a problem where I damaged the O-ring as I was installing the new TB (found this out later.) Since there was an air leak after the TB in the intake path, the engine would idle high. Removed the TB and found the issue with non-seated o-ring. Re-installed, all worked great!

 

I new to this forum, and I'm also a proud owner of a Chrysler crossfire (had it for a year now). I decided to do this mod with the bigger maf housing, elbow, and also throttle body. I have been getting a really low idle that almost stalls my car. I can also feel the car vibrate as its trying to stay on. It's giving me a bad maf sensor code but I have replaced it with two spares that I had and nothing. They all seem to give me the same issue. My car ran great before the mod, averaging 340-360 miles to the tank, no codes and no idling. Now it's ideling bad and I'm lost without knowing what to do. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated. The car runs good once at highway speeds but seems like it bogs the most when I put it in 1st or 2nd.

 

I hope your not using the one that came with the larger housing.. those are basically throw away. Did you do a throttle reset with the gas pedal?

 

I'm not, I have followed the Pdf that's given here to the last detail and used the old oem maf sensor meter. I have tried several times to do a TB reset. You know, Turn the key to on, press on gas pedal for 5seconds, turn off key, release gas pedal but leave key on, wait for 5 minutes. I Checked every line and it's plugged in. The code that is throwing out is a bad maf. The weird part is that I had a v8 maf meter on my old tb and that worked great. The sensors look alike and I have also tried that one with the same result. I just don't know what else to try. I have read many people who struggled and got it to work. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

 

BoilerUpFire had problems like this and a nice drive to the Dragon cured it for good. So just drive and see what happens.
I did the same mod on my old NA and I had no problems from the start at all. So who's to say why it happens.

 

Same thing happened to mine after the 74mm install...just drive for about a week or so...it will clear up...Carl..BTW. I did use the OEM MAF with the new body...Carl