I have had my '05 Crossfire for 8 years. I have yet to find a mechanic that doesn't sigh or their roll eyes when I tell them I have a Crossfire that needs work. Even the three Chrysler dealership's near me flat out say, we don't work on those cars much and they are difficult to diagnose. My car is barely hanging on right now, but I cannot afford to buy another one right now. Plus, still REALLY like my car.

CAR ISSUES:
1. P410 Code
2. Check Engine Light (goes on and off)
3. BAS Light (goes on and off... on for the last 50 miles)
4. Car surges and seems like it is not getting enough gas
5. Rough idle and dying while driving until a friend of mine cleared all the codes with a code reader he borrowed from his work (Ford mechanic). Car ran great for 2-3 days. Then the surging problem started and has become progressively worse in the last few days. Tried to drive it today but turned around and went back home. It feels like it's not getting enough gas or maybe not enough air. The problem is worse when taking off in a low gear.


RECENT REPAIRS:
1. I had the throttle body cleaned (not replaced) a couple of months ago. Car ran great for about 2 weeks then slowly started surging when taking off and dying when at a stop.
2. I have tried resetting the computer by pressing the brake and accelerator, turn ignition on, off, etc. That didn't work.

Any suggestions regarding DFW mechanics that work on Crossfires and are good would be appreciated.

2005 Crossfire, base model, manual 6 speed, 155,000 miles

Thanks!

 

My first thought concerning the surging and stalling is a vacuum leak , check all of the vacuum lines going to the throttle body to see if any have slipped off or have developed a hole in them, simple way to check for a vacuum leak is to use a can of starting fluid and with the engine idling if possible, carefully spray short bursts of starting fluid around the throttle body and MAF sensor, if the RPMs surge each time you spray then you have found your vacuum leak if no change in RPMs then there is no vacuum leak. Po410 is the secondary air injection pump , it is tied in with the EGR circuit , on cold starts the secondary air injection pump pumps air into the exhaust system in order to get the catalytic converters to heat up faster, more often than not the DTC code is caused by a bad relay or burnt contact in the RCM which stands for Relay control module. All of the symptoms and problems you have described have been dealt with numerous times on the forum , use the search function and you can solve most of your problems your self and save a lot of money. A little more information about your car would be helpful like has the fuel filter be changed has the RCM been changed does it still have the stock air intake system have you checked cleaned and reassembled your battery and all connections. The more information you can give us the more we can help you.😉 all of these symptoms could also be caused by a bad RCM.

 

I would try Autoscope or even Passport Motors over in Plano. Both have done work for me on other European Cars I owned. Years ago I had Passport install my first Supercharger Pulley, the mechanic was a German dude, he was so shocked to see how my SRT6 was just a SLK32 in a Chrysler skin. Both of these companies are pretty well know around town with the German Car owners.

 

Thanks for the info.
A few weeks ago I friend of mine did the spray test. The engine did have higher rpms when sprayed around the throttle body, but it was not consistent. By that I mean we sprayed the throttle body area 10 times. Out of 10 times the RPMs when up 4 times. It probably has some type of leak. He said it looked like I had a oil leak somewhere. I can't remember where he said he thought the leak was though. When I had my oil changed at the Chrysler dealership, they didn't mention a possible oil leak. I've had all the hoses checked at least 3 times in the last few months. They checked out okay.

Over the last couple of years, I have used the forum to self-diagnose my car. I have tried doing a couple of things myself or asked someone to help me. I'm a 52 year old female so as you can imagine, I don't do much auto repair. Below are a few things I have tried:

1. I disconnect and clean the battery connections twice in the last 3 months. Didn't help.

2. I Google searched and figured out how to take off and clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor with Mass Air Flow Cleaner (NOT carburetor cleaner). It took me a good 3 hours to do a job that would take a mechanic or any guy 45 mins. I don't plan on doing any more work myself. It's too darn frustrating and a lot of guess work.

3. 2 years ago my son replaced what I think was a cO2 sensor(?). It looked like a flat square, was about a $30-$40 part at AutoZone. I believe it was located in a place that was hard to get to on the driver's side. The replacement of this part helped the surging issue, but didn't not completely fix the problem. Over time, the car seemed to actually get better. Then about a year down the road, the problems started up again.

The surging issue comes and goes. Yesterday was the worst surging I've every felt in my car. Today the car drove just fine! However, I know the issue will be back.

This morning, I took my car into a local garage. A friend of mine recommended Gary D's Automotive off of S. Cooper in Arlington. I will let you know what I find out about the car. They are going to all me later today and tell me what they've found.

 

Similar symptoms today were solved with new relays in the RCM, I'd just change out the whole RCM and get a good one in.