Guys/Gals, please remember that not everyone is mechanically inclined. So if they need some guidance, lets be positive about it . . . yes, the RCM has been plagued with issues. In particular, that fact that they use open style relays, which could be prone to dirty contacts . . . and we all know that the solder joints are terrible !! I made better solder joints on a printed circuit board in high school !!! . . .

If you are able, I would suggest taking your RCM out of the car, and inspecting the solder joints of the relays, and if able resolder, if not able, then have someone you trust, resolder them. This will take this issue off the table for you . . . not much you can do about the CPS (crank position sensor) . . .other than buy a spare one, keep it in the glove box, and be aware of the conditions a bad one causes. Then if you need it replaced, you can either do it yourself, or have it done and be money ahead . . . .

The forum is here to help dispense knowledge to all Crossfire owners . . . . lets keep it helpful and relevant . . .

Cheers

M

 

Good suggestions. Thanks for the tips. I'm just sad that this breakdown occurred on a car with only 20,000 miles on the odometer.


Craig

 

In case your car is still sitting, waiting to be fixed....LISTEN to these guys! I am a not mechanically knowledgeable woman and with tighed1's excellent instructions fixed my car.

 

Update Vipor3d?

 

HELP

i have a beautiful 2005 X Fire, I’ve had so many issues with it, I’ve replaced the convertible top, alternator, battery, Crank shaft censor, cam shaft sensor, I soldered the Film of black substance that was on my Fuse connections, my car runs fine for about 20 minutes then stalls out every time I come to a stop, it will start right back up INSTANTLY and when I give it gas the front of the car will shake terribly, but it will not PULL I drove it under 45 and whenever it hits 50+ it’s happens, when I come to a stop it dies out and my battery light in the dash pops on like the alternator is bad or the battery isn’t being charged. So I turn the key off and turn it right back over and it’ll take right off. What’s causing the car to not pull!! The transmission doesn’t seem to be bad at all. I shift from drive to reverse and 1-2-3-4 smoothly. It’s just when driving and shifting, or when I come to a stop, it’ll idle at 100 RPM’s and then slightly increase to 3-400 and then back down 100 and die out. PLEASE HELP IVE OUT 6,000 In my car form a top, to all the side fixes. I really love it and would love to see it run again. TIA!

 

Get the diagnostic codes. Just about any auto parts store will connect their scan tool and give you the codes for free. GET the exact code not just what they told you; Write it down and then come back and tell us what it says.

 

I’ve had it coded, the only code that showed was fuel injector code I forgot the exact number I could get it tho.

 

The number is important. Ask for the codes that are stored as well; could be throttle plate problem, lack of fuel, as well as many others. When you replaced the crank and cam senors you must use Bosch parts. Other brands have always caused early failure.

 

Something similar happening to me. I was driving from my home to the grocery store about one mile away. After making a left hand turn into the parking lot, my 2005 Crossfire shut off! All Dashboard lights came on. Lost full power. and control of vehicle. I was able to coast into a parking space. I turned the ignition off and tried to restart. It wouldn't. I was able to to get the windows to go up. I had 3/4 tank of gas. I went to the store and when I came back I tried to start my car and it did. I drove to my MB mechanic but car did not throw off any codes. I drove home but while stopped at the traffic light, it felt like it was struggling to avoid stalling out.

What could be the cause of the failure? I don't want to be stranded again if I can help it.

 

Sounds like your crank position sensor or RCM.

 

[QUOTE=Vipor3D;876750]I maybe should've been a little more clear when I said it wouldn't crank. It would crank fine every time I tried each day after I got it home the night that it died out on me. Even when it got towed yesterday, it would still crank. I was just afraid that it might would die out on me again while driving it to a shop to have it looked at. I told them not to do any work to it and it was taken to a Chrysler dealership where they are only going to run their own test on it for about the price of buying my own diagnostic tool. That's my main concern right now, is just being sure on what the issue is. And Im not trying to discredit anything anyone who has replied to me has said, but as you can see I have gotten a couple of various possibilities in the responses from other crossfire owners who obviously know way more about my car than I do. So that's why I am having it looked at again just to see what the dealership says. And I will look into a shop specializing in European cars because that does sound a lot smarter than taking it to a Chrysler dealership. I am pretty ashamed to admit that I probably shouldn't even own my crossfire just because of my general lack of knowledge about cars and engines and the crossfire deserves an owner that has the knowledge, but I cant help loving my car lol.

 

When that happened to me it was the RCM which has a fuel pump relay. I sent it to “ tighe1” from the crossfire forum. Never had another problem since.he fixed it.

 

Just a suggestion, have an Independent Mercedes repair shop fix it. The Chrysler dealerships rarely know anything about these cars and charge double for repairs. It is mechanicly an SLK320.

 

Hi - can someone please help me?

My car is the crossfire 2005 ... the problem -
Has been getting worse -
Originally it just didn't start - happened once .. so thought no more of it .. as it started about fifteen minutes later
2. A while later .... about six months - the same problem - this time i had on road assistance start it ... the mechanic did a sequence of things ... remotely unlocking and unlocking .. then putting it in neutral etc etc
3. in the last 5 weeks - the car stopped while i was driving ... electronics still on.. but motor died .... it started again immediately
4. next time it stopped ... same thing - electronics still on .. and did not start immediately - called road side assist ... car started while i was waiting for them
5. next time it stopped - same thing ... electrics on dash showed on .. but engine did not turn over
6. next time it stopped - and would not start ... so had it towed to the mechanic.
7. the dash light has continually had the oil sensor light showing ... even after a service ...
8. The mechanic has called to say that the oil level pressure sensor is not working and needs replacing for AUD $1100\

I have been looking at people with similar problems ... where the engine died ... then did or didn't start, yet the dash had electrics on.
I have seen on the forum people saying things like - crank shaft sensor ... relay control module and a couple of other things were the problem

Help me please? $1100 is a lot of money to spend and not know if it is actually the problem ... what do i do?! From a Crossfire lover - i really do love my little car .. but she not drivable and this is looking expensive ... from NasF1

 

The oil level sensor has nothing to do with the car starting or running, $1100 is not a reasonable charge to replace it, either.
Ignore that until you get the car running.

If the problem is that the engine dies and the starter won't engage, I'd replace (or send to DJ for repair) the Relay Control Module. To confirm it's the RCM, the next time the starter wont engage, turn key to Start, let key relax back to "on". Wait 45 seconds. Does engine cooling fan start running at very high speed? If so, it's almost 100% certainly the RCM.

 

2nd on PG's doing the RCM, post 55. Sounds like the solder joints are arching (working sometimes, hit a bump, off goes the car). Good luck!


.

 

First, do you have any codes stored?

 

Have there been any codes related to an RCM issue, that many agree upon? I can't recall any.

Given the symptoms, what codes would we expect?

IF he has reservations about sending it in then maybe he could buy one and if it fixes it long term, send it in to DJ for a spare (which many have in their 'kit' anyway).


.

 

The rcm - relay control module - has a relay in it that controls the fuel pump. IF you were to extract it (3 min if you know what you are doing - no tools) about 15 minutes if you are me... then... you might or might not notice the bad solder EVERY OTHER PERSON on this forum knows about. I, like many, knew about these issues but thought, yeah, but not MY car. But, one time it stalled out not to move again. $35 or so bosch position sensor fixed it right up. Next time,, buzing along just fine, the relay control module crapped out. Replaced for that same approx $140-150. No problem since then.

Here is a tip for you.... if your steering wheel vibrates or shakes at all, get a new steering stabilizer. Less than $25, and held on by two bolts and you do not even need to raise the car. IF YOU are really skinny! Else, remove splash pan, one bolt each end. Incredible difference. These big fat tires put extra strain on steering linkage so this thing works great to remediate that. But it is like a shock absorber that you need to replace once inn awhile. Your buddy the gearhead will do it for you, or theat neighbor kid you see with his hood up.

These are high quality cars that need only scheduled maintenance to run for many miles.