Any suggestions on how to get it open when you can't get the convertible top open either?

 

These work well.

 

Nope.

The Bow Latch is the key to this, and it is a hydraulic latch. If the top is up and the bow latch is engaged, and you can't get the top to go down, then there is no way I see to get the trunk open to release the bow latch if the electric trunk lock is defective.

In this case, I would recommend to all that they take the time in advance to remove the little plastic locking piece from the electric trunk lock NOW !!!. ( kinda hard to get to, but once you do, it just pops off the electric lock solenoid arm - see pizzaman's instructions on accessing the trunk locking mechanism )

With that removed, you will always be able to open the trunk and release the bow latch in event of automatic top failure.

NOTE !!! Don't forget to put that 6MM hex wrench in your trunk tool kit so you can release the bow latch, along with the special tool or thin 10MM wrench for the tonneau cover latch.

 

ooops - in previous post that should be pizzaguy, not pizzaman ....

sorry pizzaguy

 

Well, since my trunklid was not all the way closed, I had the neighbor push the button while I pressed down hard on the trunklid. This causes the interlock switch to sense a "closed lid" and allowed the top to move. The window flipped up, decklid rose - and I could then crawl in and take the trim off the trunklid and get to the problem.

At this time, it's the only advice I have. I found NO WAY in other than that. Tried taking the license plate lights out, no good.

Hey, everyone - NOW is the time to modify your Roadster trunklids. Remove the emergency release cam from the latch mechanism and either modify the electric lock OR move the electric lock assembly out of it's assigned position so it can't do this to you!

 

Post 59:

BINGO!

(Excellent description of the mechanism, too.)

 

Pizzaguy, do you have a link to your tutorial on removing that piece of plastic?

Found it!! Sorry.

 

So if I am understanding you correctly, and I believe I am, all I needed to do was to remove that piece of black plastic that is attached to the small cable lanyard that is attached to the emergency T handle. Correct? It is what I did at any rate. Great advice and thanx!!

 

That is half the job, the other half is to disable the electric lock's ability to cause trouble. The cam on the electric lock does not always retract fully and therefore locks the trunk.

And again, this lock actuates only when you are putting the top up or down. That is, it is in the "locked" position ONLY for about 23 seconds at a time - the time it takes to put the top up or down. It is ONLY there to stop roving bands of thugs from running up behind you and opening your trunklid while the decklid is up during top operations.

 

Yeah, a little confusion on my part originally, but I believe I understand things better now.

As for the second part of the job, the removal of the electric cam lock. Is there a limit switch that is part of this assembly? I'm a little reluctant to disassemble the locking mechanism without some guidance. Anyone with a pictorial of this it would be much appreciated.

 

I'm modding my Graphite Roadster as we speak. (It occured to me that I modded the Red one, then forgot about modding the Graphite Roadster this afternoon.)

Taking pictures and notes, I'll be on here in about an hour or so with pictures.

There is an electrical indication of the unlocked/locked status of the lock that is presented to the car's electronics that is built into the actuator.

Back in a bit!

 

You da man!!

 

Ok, lets see if I can make this easier and clearer than before. I just modded my Graphite Roadster, the posts by ALAXFIRE made me see the error of my ways. This cut about 45 minutes from the time required to modify this car. There is no reason to remove all those nuts and take out the entire lock and latch assembly - this is gonna be easy! Read on!

PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE POST - it was last edited on August 14, 2011.

Remove the ten plastic fasteners from around the perimeter of the trunklid trim.


Remove the T20 torx screw from behind the emergency release handle. The trim panel falls out of the way, partly – the emergency release is still attached.




Now removed the nut holding the emergency release cam on the stud (the nut is part of the cam, they will come off together). I believe this to be a 14 mm nut, but I used an adjustable wrench to remove it, so I’m not sure. Remove the yellow handle, cable along with the cam and save them to restore the car to “factory” later if you wish. But get them out of the way of your trunklid latch!




See that cam thing that the steel cable from the Yellow handle is attached to? THAT is the actuator I am talking about. Get it outta there!
This takes care of the emergency lock mechanism. Now, on to the electric lock....


(Refer to the next photo - you'll see the two lighter colored torx screws holding the electric lock actuator in place at the top of the picture, over on the right near the white sticker.)

Now, remove them! It is not easy to access them with a torx screwdriver. If possible, use a torx bit and a small ¼ inch drive ratchet. I found that one of my screws seemed to be a T20 and the other a T15.





Once you get the actuator out, pinch the sides of the electrical connectors and disconnect them.

Now, look at the black piece on the end of the actuator – it slides off the end with just a little effort! If you have the part in position like I do in the picture of it below, turn it over and you’ll see the little white rod… Hold the part so you can see the white rod from the actuator inside the black locking part and push the black part away – it will release with just a little effort.




Now, plug the wiring back in and put the actuator back with the two screws. Then, put the trim back in with the T20 screw and plastic fasteners.


You may now rest assured that the emergency release cam AND the electric lock will NEVER stop you from opening the trunk. The electric lock is UNABLE to lock the trunk now - but it will INDICATE a locked condition to the car's electronics so that the top will go up and down. The pneumatic lock will still lock the trunk as usual.


Additional information makes me question the wisdom of removing the emergency release cam and cable.

(See post #10 in Chrysler Dealership can't get the trunk opened in this (The Roadster) forum. (Can't make links work here.)

Here is my story - two years ago, my Red Roadster's trunk refused to open. I removed the emergency release cam (and actually saved the cam, I still have it.) A few weeks later, the trunk refused to open again - it was determined to be the electric cam lock. I moved the actuator out and tie wrapped it to the cable harness. Today, I now have instructed you to just remove the black part off the end, as another poster here has instructed. I stand by this advice, as does he. You then put the actuator back where it was, but it is unable to lock the trunk on you! It DOES, however, indicate a locked condition to the electronics, so the top will go up and down.

Now, way back when, I tried to remove the license plate lights in order to open the trunk, but it didn't seem to work. In another thread on this board, in the past few days, it became clear that you CAN reach in with a hook and snag the emergency release cable and open the trunk. BUT THIS MEANS that my advice to remove that assembly might work against you one day!

So, my advice is this: We KNOW the electric cam is a time bomb - it seems to get most of us eventually. I've even seen it fail (or hang up) on dealer's lots. One time, I just reached in and unlocked the top and hit the button, then put the top back - the action of doing this got the actuator to move out of the way! I stand by my advice to modify the electric cam lock as described.

BUT I AM NOW UNSURE about telling people to remove the emergency release cam and cable. Please read these threads and think this thru before removing the emergency release.

One more thing, I compared the emergency release cam from my Red car and my Graphite car - the one from the red car DOES have a piece broken off! So it WAS part of the problem! Anytime you can get the top to release it's window bow and open the big door - you can reach in and work on a trunk that refuses to open. HOWEVER, if you can't get the top to move and the trunk won't open - I think the only hope is to remove a light assembly and snag the emergency release cable. This leaves me wondering if removal of the emergency release is a good idea or not ?!?!?!?! I may put mine back in - but you can be sure I'll try to inspect the cam once a year or so for cracks or a broken piece of plastic!

Hope this all helps.

ONE LAST UPDATE ON 6-30-2017: I really am not comfortable with you removing the emergency latch mechanism, only do the electric lock mod. I say this because the emergency latch release is helpful if you have a dead battery and want to get into the trunk. By removing the driver's side tag light, you can use a metal coathanger to pull on the emergency release. Many have had to do this.

 

hahahha its just about to come to that!!!

 

PM sent Pizzaguy!!

 

thanks....another mod to do...just what I needed...lol....

 

yea, but this one goes fast, costs nothing but 1/2 hour of time - and might save you from using a Canadian's can opener to get your jacket outta your trunk!

 

true my friend....thanks for the update....working on the roadster tomorrow....and will add this to the list....still trying to get the coupe done, but a thunderstorm came through, so we called it a night...

 

Would everyone please re-read post 73 and tell me what you think. The additions I made are in RED.

 

Two thoughts:

1. Your tutorial with clear pics allowed me the confidence to remove the plastic thingy without fear of botching things up.

2. After reading the thread about Kola's problems with the locked trunk and how it got resolved, I decided to reinstall the emergency release. I think at this point the pluses out weigh the minuses in keeping it installed.

Hope this helps.