I was afraid of the "it's behind the gauge cluster" from all the reading I've done. I've downloaded the manual suggested and will spend some time on it this week in prep for my knuckle busting next weekend. I think my plan will be to get access to the SKREEM, disconnect and remove its battery (if possible and replace, anyone know), reconnect, and try the 3 hour key in the on position "reprogramming" I referenced earlier.

Anyone have a better plan????

So to be clear, it looks like my wife's car (Vicki), has been "protected" by a device that requires me to rip the car apart and may then also require programming that can only be done at great expense by someone owning a tool specifically designed to make sure I have to hire them after I pay to have it towed because the car is disabled to keep it from being stolen even though I own it and have both expensive preprogrammed keys in my possession . Did I get that right???? Seems like the only thing NOT protected by anti-theft in this equation is my wallet.

 

I do not think that the SKREEM module has a battery. The siren has its own battery but that is another story.

 

Okay.. lets toss this out.. the idea of accessing the skreem is to unplug it so backup battery from alarm doesn't keep it juiced. Now if a person were to unplug the alarm.. (much easier to get too) along with the main battery itself.. and as a "complete" discharge.. turn the key to run position.. wouldn't you accomplish the objective?

 

In one of the threads I referenced earlier, it was said that the SKREEM has a battery and it must be removed to perform a reset to see if that may fix the problem. If I read incorrectly, that's great because now I should be able find the power source (I think I read fuse 33) and disconnect it to reset BUT I'm pretty sure others have said it MUST be accessed.

 

Thinking I only read "unplugged" skreem module.. nothing about accessing a battery in it.. so I stand by my previous post.. but it's your knuckles and time..

 

Ahhhhh, the wonder of blogs and taking a long time to complete a response!!! I did not see your previous recommendation as I was responding to the post before it and it took me awhile as I multi-tasked!!!! Your suggestion has merit! Now I just need to determine how to isolate the alarm from the SKREEM. Any suggestions? With my luck that connection will also be accessible only after the cars is taken apart

Do you know if Mercedes programming tools will work on the car? I've got some friends that own a "German targeted" shop here in town and THEY do not even know the answer but are investigating.

 

From what I've read.. Star Das.. DRBIII .. but you have to have the crossfire software.. one of those notebook computer type looking interface cards.. seen them on ebay a few times at $100 bucks.. Don't have a clue if you'd do any good without it..
From what I've read the alarm is some work.. but no where near the skreem module.. you can find threads here on its removal - replacement..

 

So I tried keeping the battery disconnected for > 24 hours and I've tried the 2 hours with the key in the ON position and nothing. Any other thoughts before I just pack it up and send it to the dealership?

 

So I guess you opted not to try to disconnect the alarm module/backup battery?

 

Oh I'm still buried in the maintenance manual trying to figure that one out but slowly losing patience. I always try to keep parallel threads in motion

If anyone has done this before, please reach out!!!!

 

Doesn't sound like it's to bad of a job.. post #7 in this thread..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...r-driving.html

 

Thanks for the pointer. Saw that in the manual but that really doesn't tell me if the backup battery is with the siren or in one of the 3 modules in the box by the main battery. Want to make sure I'm getting to the targeted item which is that backup battery.

 

OK, had some time to fiddle this morning and began to take the wiper arms off. Need to go out and get a small puller as recommended in the other threads. No joy breaking them free.

I also tried something I should have done earlier. The panic button on either key no longer sounds the siren. Here's a REACH of a theory. About 15 months ago my wife left a light on in the car and spelled the death of the original battery which we replaced. However, it's not the first time she had done that and usually the discovery time was weeks. Could the battery in the siren have finally given up the ghost and not be able to hold a charge and this is now the root cause???

In the meantime, I spent some more time with the manual. Anyone know exactly which harness coming from under the cowling (if any) is the siren? I figured if I could just disconnect it, I may make some progress. My other thought was that the siren fed through the firewall directly to the SKREEM and I'm SOL until I can remove the parts to gain access

 

Well I don't know about your discharged battery being the root of all evil .. I'm guessing she manually activates the overhead lamp? As it should turn off by itself after a few minutes if a door was left ajar .. Skreem module has not been a real issue (repeated issue) that I have seen to really be fully documented with cause / effect issues. Just another theory to go with things.. skreem has "secured" the car so no interaction with the alarm?
The thread on replacing the alarm makes no statements about having to access the skreem, so I would think there is a connector there. Might be able to pull up a replacement alarm module online that would show a pigtail of a sort?

 

OK, was able to remove the screws, the clip, and the two wire ties from the cowling, lift it enough to reach in and unplug the siren. No joy. Same 3 starts, no run, and out.

However, more information is slowly trickling in. I still think it's got SOMETHING to do with a secondary battery someplace. I now find out the the TPMS stopped working about 6 months ago, the garage door openers I programmed about 8 months ago lost their programming about 3 weeks ago, and now I find the siren doesn't operate when the panic button is pushed! Sorry folks, not MY car

Does this help or confuse??? I also spoke to a guy at Enginuity (looking to buy the programmer kit $480) and he says he RARELY see modules that require replacement and would be shocked it it's actually a bad module. Told him all about this forum, ... Going to go through a list of connectors he told me to check and I'll report back. He also said to try to find the aux battery (in trunk on SLK 230 says he) and see if the fused interconnect blew. Any thoughts folks????

Again, in the meantime, open to new suggestions. It's a beautiful day in TX so I've taken the afternoon to open the garage door and fiddle

 

If I recall correctly.. after user in that skreem thread.. disconnected his module (and or replaced).. isn't that when he did the 3 hours on charger with key on? And with alarm removed and battery disconnected I would give it 10 minutes or so that way and turn the key to on position to discharge any capacitors. Then hook alarm and battery back up and do the charger / key on for 3 hours. Just trying to emulate what that thread said worked for him.
And with your new grimlens.. I would think a volt meter would read juice at the alarm if the battery was good in it.. I'm wondering if a dead alarm battery "couldn't" cause your issues.. Welcome to uncharted waters man..

 

I think I'll write a new CW song, Bridge Over Uncharted Crossfire Waters I was just making notes on allthe "scenarios" to repeat on this! Still debating on the repair. The one GOOD thing I learned is that the Mercedes tools WILL read this car per the guy from Enginuity. He said he's done it. The difference is that this car doesn't have quite ALL the same modules as the SLK230!

It's about Miller Time for me. I think I know what my weekend looks like. Still in search ofthe illusive battery abckup

Time to bring a TV out to the garage for by Buckeyes game this weekend!

 

I have been on this forum for six years or so and the only batteries I have heard about are the main battery, the batteries in the tire pressure sensors in the wheels and the battery in the siren, no others.
I believe there is a module of some importance to the security and it is in the trunk near the air/vacuum pump. I'll try to find a photo of it.

The halo around the ignition switch is very important and there is a wire from this that goes to the SKREEM module. There is a thread about the SKREEM module and it died out and the OP never answered any more after he said he was about to replace the SKREEM module he was in the UK and had a screen name that somehow had an army ring to it.

If the halo wire was damaged/disconnected or the halo failed the car will not start, if the SKREEM unit failed the car will not start but all these will let you have three tries at starting the car.

The TPMS and the garage door opener are controlled by the same reciever/transmitter unit. It is above the rear view mirror behind the overhead light unit. Failure here I do not think will hinder starting the car.

The security module is the part held by the silver bracket with three of four wires going to it from the pump module which has the yellow pipes coming from it. It is on the right hand side of the picture. Water damage in this area causes all kinds of trouble.

 

OK, I've done all the activities of keys in the ON position, plug, unplug the siren, .... and no joy.

I broke down and order a scan tool. Will be here next week. Anyone with experience and knowledge of likely things to look for, please let your thoughts be known!!!!

Thanks again to all and I promise to keep the thread alive through to resolution. Looking forward to the guidance and wisdom of the community!

 

Scan tool? DRBIII? pretty sure that's what you have to have to get where you need to.. OBDII if I'm not mistaken is only going to get you into the "top layer" so to say..Crossfire card on Ebay and your friends with the MB tools might be your best bet.. Hopefully others will chime in with experience in the electronic modules and accessing..