I have a 2007 limited with an oil leak on the drivers side. It is leaking from where you put oil in it on top of the valve cover, I can see 2 torx screws and have verified that the cap is on it correctly. Has anyone had this problem and is that part on the valve cover removable to replace the gasket, and how do you get the cover off the top of the engine to access it?

 

The valve covers themselves are a known weak spot when it comes to leaks, you can search here and find a DIY tutorial on it.

BUt if you mean the oil-filler-cap-assembly, I cant say Ive heard anyone talk about THAT leaking.

You might look up the service manual, download it, and see what it says about what gasket(s) are involved and what torque the bolts should be at:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

The oil filler neck consists of two parts on the original set up. one is the filler itself that the cap fits on and the other is an extension to bring it level with the hole in the engine cover. between the neck and the extension and the extension and the cover there are two gaskets #05080088AA, these have been known to leak in the past.
To remove the NA engine cover you yank up on the cover at the back. Remove the inlet tubes first.

 

Thanks, will be going to Chrysler dealer tomorrow for parts

 

If their prices offend you, try these people in Arizona:

Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips

 

I think everyone's had this problem. Didn't even know mine were leaking but they fixed it under warranty for free.

 

oil cap gasket and also same gasket for where the oil cap extension neck attaches to the actual valve cover access panel..
Oil Cap Gasket

 

Sorry, Rob. I didn't realize you carry such insignificant little items (you know, the kind that don't make the car go faster or stop quicker!)




For those new to the site, Rob is a favored vendor around here as well as Crossfire Owner - he is one of us and you can do business with him without concern.

 

My '07 roadster had leaking oil issues associated with the two part valve cover - the upper part and gasket would let go - the first time after 27K and the second time 5K later. Dealer said the OE upper part gasket couldn"t handle thermo heating and cooling and eventually let go so I had a leak on the front left and right rear of the valve covers creating quite a stink after the engine warmed up. If you stay consistent with Chrysler eventually they cave and replace the entire valve cover assemblies as a "good will repair" - tech told me the new gasket material can handle the heating and cooling conditions much better than the OE material. Looking forward to smell free cruising from here on out!

 

first off the Chrysler mechanics don't know squat about the valve covers. the top access panels are sealed with Mercedes rtv not an actual gasket. new valve covers come with the same sealant as the factory (I know as I have disassembled many of them in brand new form). the key to a good seal is to use the Mercedes rtv applicator tool (think caulk gun) and put on a nice thick bead (Mercedes goes light to save money on the sealant). I have sealed up a few hundred valve covers so far and have yet to see one of mine leak from the access panels. the factory aluminum bolts to hold the access panel in place are garbage and we replace them with stainless bolts. the bolts do not create the seal, they simply hold the access panel in place while the rtv dries. for all of those that thought tightening these bolts would stop the leak, soon find out that the bolts are aluminum and easily strip or break causing you a big headache.

 

Roger that. ( only good part is the aluminum bolts are easy to drill out )
Mine are now SS.

 

Stainless steel and aluminum/magnesium are at different ends of the galvanic corrosion chart and there will be greater chances of corrosion on the aluminum/magnesium when in contact with a salty solution. This could be sea air or snow salt spray. It is not a maybe it is a fact. Chrysler did not put aluminum screws in for no good reason.

The shields behind the front wheel rotors on my Chrysler 300 are aluminum, both have been replaced as the steel screws and the salt spray from the roads ate through the aluminum in perfect circles around the screw heads, leaving little aluminum washers under the screw heads. I admit this area is an extreme environment, other areas would just take longer to get the same damage.

Needswings mentioned corrosion on the valve covers at one time, if it was by the screws then this may be the reason. If proper plated screws are used then the corrosion is prevented. Replace with the wrong screws and use in a salty environment and you can expect trouble to some extent. Even plain water is a good electrolyte, just not as good as a salty one.

 

here is where we see the corrosion...

 

All good points, however here in Alabama rust and corrosion are things you look for on a used car if you suspect it came from "up north". Here, we don't have any corrosion problems, if it ever does snow, the road crews just spread some sand around.

Besides, my engine never gets wet anyway, if it happened to ever get dirty, I'd use the air pressure / kerosene syphon thingey and clean it up like I did when I first bought it.