Help Please.....My 2005 Roadster will not start. It began about 2 mo ago with rough idle and loss of power. Then one day at a traffic light it just died. It would turnover (continuously without keeping the key turned) but would not fire, after several attempts and a few minutes it started. I got her to (my boss's) mechanic asap. They replaced the C02 Sensor and the EGR valve. The check engine light would go off but come back on after a few days. They replaced the C02 sensor a 2nd time (sighting faulty part), my check engine light stayed off just long enough to get my inspection but of course came back on. I thought this is just how its going to be. Until last week.....I turned into a parking lot (so I was going very slow) the engine sputtered then died.
This time it would not start. This same mechanic is now saying its a problem with the anti-theft device and its stopping the engine from firing, and that only Chrysler can fix it. I still believe the original problem was never fixed. After reading some other threads I wander if it could be the fuel module, filter or pump or possible the crankshaft position sensor. This site has helped me before and I'm really hoping with the vast knowledge about our cars I've seen here that someone can provide me with some guidance.

 

I'm guessing your car is automatic... the "turn the key and it keeps cranking" is normal to these cars..(yeah I was surprised too). Your initial symptoms are right in line with a CPS problem - lasting two months with a faulty one is unusual though. At 45 bucks for the Bosch brand and 20 minutes install time I'd definitely change it out to at least eliminate it as a cause. "normally" the anti theft gives you two cranks then nothing till you pull the battery cable.. then two more start attempts. My experience with the fob chip misplaced.. the car tries to sputter to life during those starts.

 

this is her bf. I was thinking fuel filter or pump til I read about the other part forth mentioned. I got to intake and sprayed starter fluid and ran fine til ran out of fluid. why I was thinking filter or maybe pump. that was before anti theft light came on

 

and yes it is a automatic

 

Fuel filter would be worth a shot, not too expensive.
Before I changed the pump ( $$$$ ) I'd check the pressure at the test point on the fuel rail at the right front of the engine, should see 50-60 lbs of pressure.
The pumps have not been a common point of failure.
( BTW: the filter and pump are inside that plastic cover you will see just in front of the passenger side rear wheel )

 

Key is "sprayed starter fluid and ran fine til ran out of fluid" so is the fuel system.

My first move would be to check for fuel pressure at the rail, should be over 30 psi to idle. If not then go to the Factory Service Manual or search for "cranks but does not run".

If you look at page 8W-30-6 in the 05 FSM (online) you will see that the Fuel pump gets power from fuse 5 and the fuel pump relay which is in the Relay Control Module. Since the RCM is a known failure point, it is a likely suspect.

If mine I'd probably just apply 12v directly to B3 and ground to B5 on the RCM and see if could hear the fuel pump. Or just try to start. If it runs then the RCM is the place to look.

If not, the RCM also powers the injectors which is the next place to look

ps in the USA, factory fuel pumps are usually good for over 100k miles. In modern cars I always llok for electrical issues first

 

Yeah the whole story does change things around a little..

 

so I should reset anti theft and verify my pressure is low on fuel system.( it has little over 100,000 miles on it and know all fuel system is factory. well she got car used but we havnt done nothing in last 50,000.) if low on pressure then fuel filter. maybe pump. but I can pull filter and turn key and see if gas comes to filter. no gas=pump. gas=filter. am I for the most part correct? if so then how bad is fuel filter if you know. if it is not the relay control module. this forum is awsome

 

You WILL get gas if you pull a line off the filter with or without the pump, they are both lower than the tank.
If you were to be foolish enough to pull a line AND turn on the pump ( assuming it works ), you will have gas sprayed
everywhere up to 15-20 feet away.
Don't be smoking if you try this.
All you REALLY need to do if buy / borrow a fuel pressure gauge that fits the test port and turn on the key. You should see pressure.
About $36 with shipping :

Amazon.com: 0-100 PSI Fuel Injection Pump Injector Tester Test Pressure Gauge Gasoline Cars: Automotive

 

turn key on fuel pump comes on for 2 seconds, waiting for engine to crank (crank position sensor) engine cranks fuel pump comes back on. So you have ignition. volts to the pump fuel ,pump relay on if crank sensor is ok. then pressure to the injectors. If it fires with starter fluid I am guessing the pump. Fuel pumps last about 120,00 miles normally . So what did you find out?

 

FYI

Turned out there was a bad relay in the RCM preventing the fuel pump from energizing.