Has anyone considered that a contributing factor to the failure of the high mounted brake light under the spoiler on the roadster trunk lid is the fact that the trunk can't be closed softly. I have to drop mine from at least 10-12inches to get the latch to engage. This has to be detrimental to the guts of the high mounted brake light.


I just paid through the nose to get mine replaced. About half of the LEDs were out and one flashed.


The new one works fine, as it should, but the first time I closed the trunk it dawned on me that this can't be good for the thing.

 

Then you have something wrong with the latch.
Mine has never been a problem to close, and I don't have to slam it.

 

I don't have to slam it, but I have to drop it from 10-12 inches. If I lower it gently the latch
makes an initial engagement but I can't get it to fully engage from there. It's much like a car door that only
partially engages. If I open it, raise it to about 10 inches or so and drop it the latch engages.

 

The trunk lid on my roadster closes and latches very easily. It sounds like your trunk latch assembly is slightly out of adjustment.

 

Thank you so much. I'll check that out.
I'll be much happier if I don't feel like I might be damaging that high mounted brake light every time I close the trunk.
Dang thing cost about $1,000 a pound .

 

Question about a pulsating high center mount brake light (CHMSL). Has anyone seen this feature that is an optional feature to the Hyundai Sonata and supposedly some other vehicles (maybe aftermarket)? I attended the Chicago Auto show yesterday and no one at Hyundai was aware of the feature. The Hyundai parts guy said it was an upgrade feature. I have been behind a few Sonata's and when the brake light is illuminated, I tend to hit the brake much faster. Anyone out there have any experience with this brake feature? There are inexpensive modules that can be added and LOTS of opinion of whether this is a good feature or a distracting feature. As for the the truck lid closing, never had any issues except when my wife drops the damn lid from the very top position while I'm in the car. Divorce proceedings begin if she ever does this again- almost blew out my ear drums sitting inside the CF when she dropped the lid. Thanks for any info or opinion on a pulsating brake light.

 

Would require a very simple op-amp/transistor circuit in line at the 3rd brake light to do it.
Different capacitor values would dictate the on/off time cycles.
It could easily be put in a weatherproof housing with a mounting tab and 2 plug leads ( a male and a female ) for connecting between the wiring harness and the light.

Not saying that I could do it, my projects generally turn out like crap, but pizza, sparkie, dj or some other electronics wiz could do it.

 

Here you go.. "project" made simple..


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3rd-Brake-Light-Pulsating-Control-Module-Safe-T-Stop-Fully-Adjustable-/191146518365?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8138675d&vxp=mtr

 

Yea, 'simple', except :

 

Trunk on both XFs closes when dropped from 2-3". I am especially careful with the SRT6 because I do not want to crack the spoiler mounts. Sounds like some adjustment is required.

 

BackOFF? XP Brake Light Module - Signal Dynamics


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Signal-Dynamics-BackOff-XP-Brake-Light-Signal-Module-1004-/301013682953?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4615d04b09&vxp=mtr

 

And:

 

Do you have a one you recommend?

 

This one works great and less than $3 shipped.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/141092528159?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

It is the one I ordered, and I got it cheaper than it is now due to the exchange rate! Works PERFECTLY and my install was super fast AND completely hidden right up where the wire harness comes into the hatch. See the post about the spoiler, and the .pdf's that Mrmiata and 180 made out of my install post (if your inclined to use the same procedure I used). The same module name/number was and is bought by many for various applications, costing much much more AND this sale includes shipping in the price! Have FUN!

 

The trunk on my '05 has to be closed firmly, but definitely not a slam. Never thought about that possibly being the cause for my CHMSL problems. My brake light worked intermittently, and wouldn't pass inspection, so I had it rebuilt over the winter by Logan Diagnostics (www.ledfix.com). I sent the unit to them and had it back in a week and the charge was less than the estimate. Mine had a broken wire internally. It cost me $100, which is way better than a grand. They can replace individual LEDs, and obviously fix internal wiring. I recommend them to anyone with a roadster having third brake light issues.