When I turn the ignition key on the dash lights come on and the horn blows. Car will not start. Remove key and horn goes off. New battery and I even took it back to check it. RCM is good. Any help appreciated before I have it towed to a garage. Thanks

 

doesn't sound real good.
I'll check around and see what I can find .

 

could be the key fob has lost the chip are you using the right key?

 

Using an original key Now that you mention key, I had ordered 2 new keys, I left the car with someone to start now and then while I was gone, we never really talked about trying the new ones out. If a new one was used and not programmed, could it have done this? Wouldn't the car recognize the correct key though in that situation?

 

The fob will unlock the doors and truck.

 

Borrow a OBM II or III reader and see if you have any codes showing. One of the auto parts places will let you borrow (w/deposit). Can't remember which one.

 

Try the steps outlined in red in the following PDF.
CLICK

 

onehundred80--did the reset, no go

 

Found this from another l 2016, from zip439. "The car not starting is the result of a permanent Limp mode. A permanent Limp mode DTC recovers when the key is cycled. [B]HOWEVER [B] if the same DTC is detected for three key cycles ( on off starts ) the system does not recover (car won't start) and the DTC must be cleared with a scan tool. You must be able to scan the transmission codes with a DRB III tool. The standard OBD II scan tools won't give you the DTC you need. Many transmission DTC cause permanent start engine lock outs. If you can lock/unlock your doors then i doubt the SKREEM is your problem.
Simple SKREEM test: Lock your doors from outside the vehicle with the FOB then look inside at the Tow-Away Alarm Switch. Is it flashing?? If not then you have a SKREEM problem. If it does flash then the SKREEM module should be OK.

When I lock the car the red light flashes.

 

Does the starter motor work? By that I mean does the engine turn but not start.

 

No engine turn

 

I would have hazarded a guess that it is the RCM if you had not assured us that it is OK, but how did you determine that it was OK?
Also the RCM horn relay could be stuck and cause the horn to work at anytime or did you have the horn relay jumped or something?

 

I sent it to tighed1. He checked it and I sent it back and he rechecked it.

 

I didn't mess with the horn relay.

 

THe horn blowing part has me stumped. There is NO provision for the SKREEM or security module to blow the horn - so that sounds like a screwed up 'clockspring' or stuck relay on the RCM.

The starter not engaging is almost always broken solder or other issue on the RCM that is preventing the 12 volt output of the Engine Control RElay from getting to the ECM. Without this 12 volt feed, the ECM does not power up, therefore, it does not send the 'enable' signal to the pulse module. The pulse module is the actual module that sends the 12 volts to the starter solenoid to engage the starter.

TJ seldom misses anything, but I still suspect the RCM.

Wish I was closer, about 1/2 hour with the wiring diagram and a voltmeter would tell us a lot. This is not that hard IF you can read the diagrams and use a volt meter. It comes down to:

The ignition switch
RCM
ECM
Pulse module
Starter solenoid
....... and how they interact. All of these 'interactions' are at the 12 volt DC level, not part of the CAN bus, so a simple voltmeter will tell you what is missing from the equation.

 

Well, no luck so far. Thanks to Michael from Sarasota for coming up for 4 hours the other day. And Paul from Canada on video.
It's in the shop now. Got a call that there is no communication between modules from the mechanic. He'll be back at it on Monday. How many modules are there?

 

When you turn the key, when does the talking begin. What talks to what module 1st, 2nd etc?

 

sure hope you can get this figured out......

 

I don't know of anyone who knows the exact sequence of all the communication that goes on between the modules. The SKREEM and ECM/Powertrain Control Module probably get the engine started on their own, but the CAN bus has many other modules, as shown in the attached diagram. (A manual transmission car won't have the Transmission module or shift assembly module.)

Keep in mind there is a second twisted-pair communication bus between the Central Locking pump, the Body Control module, and the Power Top Control Module; but I don't see a fault on THAT bus stopping the car from starting.

 

I have a bad feeling about what this will cost if it is in the hands of a shop...

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