I have a 2006 Crossfire Limited. We bought it used last year with 53K miles. Car appeared to be immaculate. I drove the car from work yesterday evening with the top down. I got home and put it back up. I came out this morning. I popped the top, the windows went down, I pressed the "Down" button, and nothing happened. No cover release, no beeps.
I pulled the top back down and latched it. Tried it again. Same thing.
I opened the trunk and checked. The divider was in place properly. I moved it back and then moved it back into place.
I unlatched the top again. Same results.
I looked through the posts on this site and one item of interest was the divider sensor. I used electrical tape on divider stub to give it more diameter and then put it back in place, thinking maybe it wasn't making good contact.
Tried again with same results.
The cover does not unlatch. No sounds. No beeps.
I left the trunk open and pressed the down button and I get beeps (like I should). The buttom appears to be working okay.
I checked the fuses and all appear to be good.
I am not sure what else to try.
Any suggestions on what to try next?

 

Looks like a question for Pizzaguy, send him a PM.

 

Ok, now take a look at the "Top Open" switch. It is above the passenger's head on the frame - it is not easy to see. WHne you release the top from the window frame, the NEXT thing that has to happen is both the divider switch AND the top open switch MUST close, this tells the controller that is it safe to start the pump.

Another thing is that the trunk is completely closed, but it sounds like you have that confirmed.

THe next move would be to verify fluid level. It has come to my attention that IF, IF IF IF, the level in the tank is really, really low you will get the exact symptom you have. Now, I DOUBT that you've sprung a leak and it's all leaked out. MOST of the time, the top acts up due to low fluid for a few cycles, then quits altogether due to low fluid. That does NOT sound like your situation.

BUT, if you take the trunk trim out to look at the tank, take a GOOD look around back there, is there water in the valleys in the wheel well or in the trunk UNDER the trim? If the controller is sitting in water, all bets are off. Again, probably not the issue but it is worth mentioning.

 

I should also mention that switches can internally fail and refuse to close. This means that you can't PROVE the switches are good without a voltmeter.

Below is the diagram of the circuit. If you take the trim out of the trunk, you can get to the connector on the module. On Pin 7 of C1 you will see under .2 volts if both switches are closed. If either is open, then you will see something over 4.5 volts. If this voltage is not below about .2 volts, the controller will refuse to start the pump.

 

Okay,

Here is how I resolved.
Using part of Pizzaguy's Video, I popped the top latch. Turned the key all the way on. Pressed and held the "Down" button. While still holding down, I switched the key off. I continued to hold the button for over 5 seconds.
I manually released the latch that secures the back of the top with a 5.5 mm Allen Wrench. Once released my wife and I lifted the back of the top up and held it there for a couple of seconds. We gently let the top back down.
I put the key back in and turned all the way on again and pressed the "UP" button. The top latched automatically.
I pressed the "Down" button and the top worked perfectly this time.
I cycled the top several times without any problems.
There was a statement in the owners manual about the Deck Lid becoming locked. It stated that releasing the Hydrallic pressure this would allow the top to operate again.
I will try that next time it happens instead of manually releasing the top.

 

I think I see the paragraph you are talking about. I'm not so sure WHAT it is saying, but -- The Top Controller CAN get to where it becomes confused as to where in the cycle it is. I suspect this is due to an intermittent switch on some cylinder or a 12 volt bus glitch that confuses the controller.

In these cases, a manual lowering or raising of the top seems to 'get the controller back to where it knows what is going on'.. This has happened to me twice in seven years of owning three Roadsters. It happened to my first one and the one I drive now.

I can't say for sure what is going on with YOUR car, but I DO know I had indications my car's battery was getting questionable and I delayed in replacing it. THen, the top acted up - I replaced the battery the next day and never saw this again. That was in 2010. Just in the past six weeks, this car did the same thing - and I replaced the battery. I do'nt drive this one much but so far, no more trouble.

It REALLY sounds electrical and I'd caution you to take a look at battery terminals, the battery ground connection at the chassis and try to determine how old the battery is. I change mine at four years (tho like I said, this one I just changed was up to five years old, so even I don't obey my own rule).

Do not waste your time having the battery "tested", either change it or don't, it's up to you.

 

Somewhat related to Mark's above post.
A few years back, my top stopped working also, just like your symptoms.
I finally got around to troubleshooting, and noticed that the trunk light was no longer working.
That was EASY, I thought. The bulb checked good, no 12v to the light. I found fuse 9 blown in the under hood fuse box. Replaced the fuse and the light and the TOP worked again!
Turns out fuse 9 also supplies 12v to the BCM.