Scuff marks on canvas top
Scuff marks on canvas top
I have noticed additional scuff marks on my top since last summers use. They seem to line up with the movable wing pieces that fold when the top is up or down. In addition there is a scuff on the top of the top very obviously from the center pin that locks the top/tonneau cover. This scuff mark was present when I bought the car and has gotten worse over time.
Is there a fix for this ?
It may be my imagination but the whole top process seems to take slightly longer than when I bought the car 4 years ago
2008 NA Roadster
Is there a fix for this ?
It may be my imagination but the whole top process seems to take slightly longer than when I bought the car 4 years ago
2008 NA Roadster
Re: Scuff marks on canvas top
I've had good luck using 303 Fabric Guard to temporarily darken the crease marks on my top. Works for a couple months, then re-apply.
303 high tech fabric guard, 303 fabric guard
303 high tech fabric guard, 303 fabric guard
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
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Re: Scuff marks on canvas top
Hi, you know, the same thing has been happening to ME. As I get older, I am definitely slowing down. I don't think there is a fix for me though! He he he he
.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Re: Scuff marks on canvas top
I do "The Aunt Jemima Treatment" twice a year with 303 protectant (bottle with Green Label) twice a year. Be generous with it, 1/4 bottle applied in first coat, 1/4 bottle in second coat - and again, repeat this every six months for a car that sits outside a lot OR is driven daily.
Saturate the crap outta the seam around the window and release the top from the windsheild frame and apply it to all seams and ridges - leave no exposed fabric untreated, then close up the top as pictured and let it sit in the warmest sun for a few hours to dry. (No need to fear the sun while drying as with wax, 303 even tells you to do it this way.)
As to the time it takes, I'll get my car out and time it today for you and report back - but I'm rather sure you are fine. I want to say 25 seconds for the motor/pump to complete an up or down cycle.
Again, I'll check. As Walter Lewin (famous physics instructor at MIT for a generation) would say, "Any observation or measurement, without knowledge of the accuracy, is meaningless". Do not trust your human perception. I was convinced my CPAP was not pressurizing properly. Two minutes with a metric ruler and a pail of water proved to me that my CPAP is fine.
And we say "Fabric Top" 'round these parts. Canvas is for tents and dead bodies. We are a very formal and proper culture.
Saturate the crap outta the seam around the window and release the top from the windsheild frame and apply it to all seams and ridges - leave no exposed fabric untreated, then close up the top as pictured and let it sit in the warmest sun for a few hours to dry. (No need to fear the sun while drying as with wax, 303 even tells you to do it this way.)
As to the time it takes, I'll get my car out and time it today for you and report back - but I'm rather sure you are fine. I want to say 25 seconds for the motor/pump to complete an up or down cycle.
Again, I'll check. As Walter Lewin (famous physics instructor at MIT for a generation) would say, "Any observation or measurement, without knowledge of the accuracy, is meaningless". Do not trust your human perception. I was convinced my CPAP was not pressurizing properly. Two minutes with a metric ruler and a pail of water proved to me that my CPAP is fine.
And we say "Fabric Top" 'round these parts. Canvas is for tents and dead bodies. We are a very formal and proper culture.
Last edited by pizzaguy; 03-25-2017 at 11:03 AM.