So I replaced my IC pump as a preventative measure... New pump is definately pumping. I DID NOT clamp the hoses when doing it, so I lost all of that fluid. I topped it off with distilled water only, which should be OK, here in AZ that won't affect anything temp related nor would it affect metal protection.

Before the IC pump change my temps always stayed under the middle line on the guage. Afterwards, however, it always stays right above the line. Any thoughts?

My first suspicion was because I didn't bleed the system (Didnt know I had to). So I followed the procedure to clamp the return line and let air bleed on that top vent back to the resovoir. Seems like it should be ok then. But still, the car is always right above the middle line.

I notice the fan goes crazy at idle now, it used to be silent.

My resovoir has no fill line, so I just filled to the top of the white part, where it meets the top black part.

Any thoughts?

 

In testing my cooling system mods I have drained and filled the radiator several dozen times this year. You sound like the engine has an air block and the radiator is not flowing.

If all is well the output hose from the engine to the radiator should be hot in about 3 minutes and the gauge should indicate about 1/2 scale. If the temp goes up the computer will run the fan to try to add cooling and that racing is a sign of that. Be sure the tank is above the white line and I squeeze the rad hose with both hands several times ------ENGINE OFF---- to assist burping the lines.

Driving it helps as the pump is run at a higher speed also.

Weekend Woody

 

Are you saying clamp the IC pump return line and drive? I just didn't want to drive with a tool clamped to a hose Im willing to if thats your method.

I just didnt see how the pump could spin faster when driving since its not belt driven, it just gets a constant electrical connection.

Hey you're the man so I'll clamp it and drive later today. My guess is leave the radiator cap on since the car is going to slosh it around?

 

The coolant pump runs all the time after you bipp the throttle. The s/c runs when you are driving in forward gear. The clamping SLIGHTLY of the hose promotes more of the water to recycle to the overflow tank, purging the air -gasses. I have a photo ill try to show you.

Again I found that tightning the hose a 1/3 AT THE MOST is all that is needed. If you close the hose you may damage the hose due the force otherwise. THe pump is fine as it bypasses to the tank without strain, because its a do as I say not as I do, cause I pinch the hose shut with my fingers and I do not advocate others try, remember Iam Od Schoo.

Five fingers attached Woody

You can see where you can slip a hose clamp on by just opening it fully and sliding it around then snug it up a few turns. You can loosen it a bit when done and leave it if you wanna, your choice, youll be back someday. WW