Guys,
I replaced the HE pump last night, with a Johnson CM30. I finished up at midnight so I didn't have time for a test. Drove in to work this morning and everything seemed fine then all of a sudden, it lost power again. It came back within a couple of miles....but it still lost power. Would that possibly be an IAT sensor going bad? The Johnson Pump was brand new and I hooked it up red to red and black to brown.

Man I hope this turns out to be and easy fix and not something that I have to keep trying to track down!!!!!!!

I appreciate the help!
Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

BURP BURP

THe cooling system is very hard to clean out the air when you do the H/E. You could still be air locked , assuming the pump is electrically connected correctly. The pump is polarity sensitive + / - you know.

Check it out Woody

 

Drive the car around, let it cool open the radiator resivoir to check the coolant. It may take a few times of driving but the trapped air will work it's way out.

 

I would definately burp the system, leave the car running while you burp it...make sure all the air is out just like everyone else is suggesting.


However, I had the same problem after replacing my H/E pump AND burping the system completely. The problem I actually ran into was the ambient air temperature sensor had gone bad...

Burp the system, if it doesn't fix it, post back up and I'll let you know where you can find it...

Well I can just let you know now, driver side lower louvre. Remove the louvre and the sensor is right there. Unplug it, if it is working properly you should now read (on your dashboard temp display) +1xx degrees... if it is faulty it will read - degrees. If it shows positive plug the sensor back in, it is working fine. If it is negative you will need to take a wire and short across the plug receptor, your sensor is bad. Shorting across it will suffice until you can acquire a new sensor.


BUT BURP THE SYSTEM BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THAT.

 

Wow! Just posted this in another thread.
Might help!

If you had been you would know that your power problem is the common overtemp of the IC/SC system. (intercooler/supercharger)
Most will tell ya that its your HE (heat exchanger) water pump (electric) pictured here, and try to get you to buy a $175 Johnson pump.


Some will say you need more air flow across the existing HE.
Some say take out the stock HE and install an aftermarket HE such as the Super Cooler. I posted a "How To" HERE.

FACTS:
Stock Heat Exchanger (HE) holds only 2 cups of coolant
The SC holds 8 cups

Stock HE full weighs 3.2lbs
The SC full weighs 10.6lbs

Stock cooling area measures 22x4.5x1.6 - 158.4 cu in
SC cooling area measures 20.5x16x1.4 - 459.2 cu in

On my coupe I have the Johnson and Super Cooler. On my roadster I have the stock pump and Super Cooler. Neither have the overtemp problem anymore.

 

I don't think replacing your H/E should be any sort of the first like 8 steps to fix the problem...

replacing the H/E while still having the problem is like an ugly woman wearing too much make up...sure the make up may make her looks good, but underneath she is still ugly.

Stock H/E is fine for a stock SRT6 and the improvement you will see is minimal....on an otherwise stock car.

definately once modifications start going in you should replace it in some form.

but for now, burp the system, make sure the polarity is correct, replace the fuse (fuse #15 i think), and then move forward from there.

 

More links related to your problem. Woody has instructions posted here on how to "burp" the system.
There's a fix in here somewhere!
Don't forget to reply back on results!

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ercharger.html

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...placement.html

 

Thanks guys for all of the helpful suggestions!
I should have known to search the forum first before jumping in and taking the car apart. I will burp the baby when I get home. If that doesn't work I will then jump to the temp sensor and then go from there if it is still not working.

Again, thanks to all for the informative posts. I will let you all know how it turns out.

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

i have to disagree with this statement. my slk32 was bone stock and the pump failed. after replacing it with the cm30 my issues were resolved until the temps hit the mid 90's in tn. s/c was cutting out after 1 burnout and a single 1/4 mile run. after installing the supercooler from tighed1 i cna burn the tires off run 1/4's and extended interstate blasts in excess of 140 mph with ZERO issues.
after following all of woody's threads on this issue it is crystal clear that the oem h/e is to small and coupled with an inferior pump will cook the s/c in all but the coolest of climates.
while the supercooler mod may not be the first step in fixing this issue it should be considered a first mod and some of the best $ spent

juts my .02 and experience

 

well i will admit that during 1/4 mile runs and hot lapping it you could see significant issues of heat soak due to the small H/E...but most people don't track their cars. For a car that is rarely tracked if tracked at all...no need to swap H/E's.... I too do 140+ mph runs (in Mexico) and have no heat issues.

 

i guess we just have to agee to disagree. i see it as a preventative mod to eliminate heatsoak before it becomes an issue.

 

You could be writing about my car with the exact same symptoms. The Johnson allowed me to go (no laughing) longer before the heatsoak set in but it still happened. Moved the HE higher into the airstream and that helped until the temps got high. With Super Cooler (Woody's idea) I ran my car so hard for so long that the SC bearing failed before any heatsoak problems appeared. I'd say the Super Cooler solved my heat problems!

Thanks for the plug Krazy!

 

i am thankful i found this forum tighed1. i learn a ton everyday and guys like woody and you have me spending my cash like crazy!
i posted my mod on my other forum and some guys wanted your digits so i had them email you.

 

There must have been something wrong with his stock HE. I have hotlapped mine many times and have stayed within a tenth of each pass. When I want to be within a hundredth of a second I'll let the car cool down. At famoso I hotlapped within a 10 minute period 3 times and ran 11.890's each time. Not only the fastest times ever ran, but within hundredths of a second of each other. It was cool either. The temps were in the 70's-80's that day. Now if your hotlapping in 100 plus degree weather, your asking for something to break.

 

cant tell you whether the oem h/e was defective or not. all i can tell you is since the replacement of the h/e with a supercooler any s/c issues have disappeared and the car is a monster.

 

Guys,
Zahanma summed it up best when he said "burp it and replace the fuse - No 13 if I remember correctly - it IS a 10amp fuse for sure.
I feel like such a dumba$$. I replaced the pump but never thought to check the fuse - with the SC cutting in and out i just thought the pump was done and not able to keep up. Potentially the pump was okay - obviously worn out since it blew the fuse - but who knows at this point?!?
I plugged in the new fuse and the Johnson kicked right in and I haven't had a problem since....and it has been pretty hot here in Currituck, NC...low to mid 90's.

Unfortunately I do not have a 1/4 mile track close by - Richmond, VA is the closest. I need to get up there and run it, but it is about 2-2.5hrs away. There are two 1/8 mile tracks pretty close by, but I don't know about running 1/8 mile. But then again I guess some track time is better than none.

Thanks again guys! The car is running like a champ!

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

I am having the same exact same issue. Dealer's service department first said bad gas pedal and then said bad transmission and now back again to bad gas pedal. Anyone know how to check if it is a bad gas pedal? I will have to troubleshoot and fix it myself, thanks

 

Glad to hear you got that fixed! Regarding drag strips, did the Suffolk raceway close down? When I
was a younger man and lived up that way, I'm pretty sure they had a 1/4 strip. I remember when
Creeds closed down, but I thought Suffolk survived. A lot closer to Currituck than is Richmod if it's
still there.

BTW, if anyone is keeping score, I had to replace the IC pump about a year after buying the car.
It was replaced under warranty with an OEM replacement. Not too long after that, I had the problem
again and again the pump was replaced under warranty with an OEM unit. That was about 5 1/2 years
ago, at least, and I've been running without that issue since. I had considered, at that time, that it
was probably a case of a bad batch of pumps, and later made units were without the problem. As I've
gone quite a while without a pump failure, that seems even more likely to me.