Coolant/Antifreeze question

Arizona John · #1 (**permalink**)

My SRT has 17K on the odometer, and was sold new just over three years ago. My question is what is the recommended interval for changing the
coolant? I don't usually go by the owner's manual, since they stretch things out too long in my opinion.

Also, what type of antifreeze/coolant is the correct one for the SRT? Since I live in a very warm climate, I want to make sure that the cooling system
is always in excellent shape.

I was also considering the addition of some "Water Wetter", which is an additive made by Redline Products. It somehow makes the coolant more
effective, and results in the vehicle running a few degrees cooler. I used it with excellent results on my MGA several years back.

Any feedback on your experiences would be appreciated.

amx1397 · #2 (**permalink**)

I changed mine around 20,000 miles,, i also used the wetter water and i have a PTE theromstat 180, it keeps the needle below the 1/2 way mark. you must use G-05 phosphate free and it is hard to find and not cheap mine is Zerex G-05. jim

MikeR · #3 (**permalink**)

They always have the Zerex G05 sitting at my NAPA store......

you need a better store jim!

32krazy! · #4 (**permalink**)

20k is a good time to flush. in all honesty the only way to keep these s/c cool is to replace the h/e with a larger unit, ie: needswings or tigheds supercooler. adding a larger flowing i/c pump and separteing the coolant system and i/c system along with a 180 tstat and -10 fan mod will ensure the car runs cool and stays strong. the total for all these mods is approx. $650 and you will see the benefits for yrs to come. its some of the best and most inexpensive mods you can make

goodgenes79 · #5 (**permalink**)

i just replaced my H/E with the E55 model and replaced the coolant with Peak concentrate and distilled water. Is it really necessary to use this special coolant? I guess I need to drain AGAIN and put the good stuff in, damn.

amx1397 · #6 (**permalink**)

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodgenes79

i just replaced my H/E with the E55 model and replaced the coolant with Peak concentrate and distilled water. Is it really necessary to use this special coolant? I guess I need to drain AGAIN and put the good stuff in, damn.

do you have any pic of both or can you tell us the differance thanks jim

waldig · #7 (**permalink**)

If your peak is rated with Aluminum then your ok, my big push is to get people to consider using a radiator flush before refilliing.

I got out massive gunk and ran it out into a cloth to catch and see what was flushed out. The system ran better after that, and that was before I made up the supercooler. Back then I was running the stock H/E and had 12,000 miles as a second owner from a dealership.

If you care to look back in my many posts, there are photos of the stuff and all that, enjoy. Woody

goodgenes79 · #8 (**permalink**)

Quote:

Originally Posted by amx1397

do you have any pic of both or can you tell us the differance thanks jim

I wish I had thought to take a pic of them next to each other. The E55 H/E is roughly 6in longer and a 1/2in wider. A little modding and fits where stock goes with stock air dam.

Quote:

Originally Posted by waldig

If your peak is rated with Aluminum then your ok, my big push is to get people to consider using a radiator flush before refilliing.

I got out massive gunk and ran it out into a cloth to catch and see what was flushed out. The system ran better after that, and that was before I made up the supercooler. Back then I was running the stock H/E and had 12,000 miles as a second owner from a dealership.

If you care to look back in my many posts, there are photos of the stuff and all that, enjoy. Woody

can you explain how you ran your flush out? the radiator has that small red screw plug and doubtful that gunk will pass. Did you just use the intercooler pump to run it all out? and if not, could you? I ousl like to do a good flush, but want to make sure I have everything out from the heater, engine, and intercooler. Sorry to sound so ignorant.

32krazy! · #9 (**permalink**)

jason what woody told me was to use the prestone flush kit and fill the rad. run the engine and remove the red plug and drain. then run clean water thru and flush again then refill with hoat compliant coolant and distilled water. m/b coolant mopar coolant or the zerex g05

my systems are separated so i dont know if flushing will affect the i/c pump in any negative way

Buggin · #10 (**permalink**)

FWIW,
I flushed both the coolant system and my seperated intercooler system with the Prestone flush. Then refilled 50/50 with G05 coolant & distilled water also added a Water Wetter product to it.

Only use a HOAT coolant (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) - ie. G05. The Dexcool and others are OAT which is for aluminum, but causes premature water pump failures. The 'Hybrid' stuff is the latest & greatest...

And yup, NAPA was the only place I could find the Zerex G05. It was only $9.50/gal.

Arizona John · #11 (**permalink**)

Thanks for the input. I just purchased Zerex G-05 at Checker Auto/O'Reilly for $14.00 per gallon. I also purchased a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Is one gallon of coolant enough? I plan to run 50% water/coolant mix,
per the manufacturer's recommnedations.

Arizona John

Buggin · #12 (**permalink**)

I bought 2 gal but only needed 1 for the coolant system. I'm not sure how much more you need more when the intercooler system is connected... Personally, I'd probably just add a little more distilled water unless you are in a very cold climate...

32krazy! · #13 (**permalink**)

my oem system holds 15 qts or 3.3 gal. of mixed coolant. so it takes 2 gals. full strength g05 mixed with distilled to make 4 gals mixed and have .7 gal left over your srt-6 should be the same