I have had this car for about 8 weeks now. It was in the shop with the body guys trying to plug all of the water leaks for almost 5 of those weeks. Not their fault, it was with them so long because they were nice enough to wait for me to find the parts to fix it. Saved me big $$. It had leaks coming from the top of the hatch, the gas filler, around the hatch gasket, and underneath the wing panel. Everywhere. It had 6 inches of water in the trunk area and the central locking pump & alarm module were sunk in all the water. About $600+ later it is all fixed. I hope.
Anyway, I took it on my first trip to Nashville and back; about 400-500miles. The car ran fine through a big rain storm. When I got back on the road after filling up, the dreaded "check engine" light came on. I thought I may have not put the gas cap back on right; not the problem. Since the care seemed to run ok, I just kept going. I stopped at a Chrysler dealer because the fuel symbol started flashing. I have never seen that on any car before. They read the codes; P0455 - Evap, P1999 - misfire, and a stored code of P0221 - ?. He reset the codes and I finished my trip yesterday. Home. The car does seem to run a little rough now and sometimes the revs go up and down at idle sometimes. I was just wondering if anyone has any input or experience with these codes that might help diagnose the codes. The mechanic who read the codes said that he would need to track down the causes. Since I was traveling I just came home. I guess I am concerned about the injectors putting to much gas in and having raw gas destroy my cats. That happened to my Audi and was very expensive to fix. I paid way below market value for this car so problems were expected, but I want to get them all fixed and then just enjoy the car. I don't want to have it sitting in the shop for another 4+ weeks. This has been a good forum and has helped me out a lot. Thanks to all.

 

P0221 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem

 

I have not heard of a coupe leaking that much. I don't run mine in the rain often, but it does get washed regularly and these is only a little water in the hatch channel which I dry with a towel. 6" of water is not good for any electronics. Revs going up/down sounds like a vacuum leak, possibly in the s/c plenum. I had a sensor pop out under hard acceleration and it ran like crap. You might want to invest in your own code reader -- I've been using an Innova 3130 (also works on my Audis), which can clear the codes.

 

I have not heard of a coupe leaking that much. I don't run mine in the rain often, but it does get washed regularly and these is only a little water in the hatch channel which I dry with a towel. 6" of water is not good for any electronics. Revs going up/down sounds like a vacuum leak, possibly in the s/c plenum. I had a sensor pop out under hard acceleration and it ran like crap. You might want to invest in your own code reader -- I've been using an Innova 3130 (also works on my Audis), which can clear the codes.

 

I am sure many of the coupes leak in the hatch area. The OEM seal around the SRT6 spoiler panel and probably the same panel on the Limiteds etc have a poor sealing arrangement.

In some cases the water can leak in the top and leak out the bottom unnoticed. The area that the water collects in the trunk can ruin the air pump/security module, think $400+ fix if you do it yourself.

The leak is not really obvious as it goes down the back of the rear trunk panel liner, under the carpet and down behind the foam module cover. With no drainage it becomes a small pond.

People may have read the various posts on this and said "not mine", many should think again.

I did a post on my leak and my fix for it, an ongoing project.

 

Two out of four cars I have right now have had water standing on either the left or right side. If you have your foam panels out, put in a small drain on each side just in case.

 

Can you get the foam pieces out without removing the side/sail panels?

 

Sadly the answer is no.
The side has to come out along with the rear panel.

 

What about just drilling a small hole into the bottom of the cavity from the outside on either side of the area. Maybe also popping one of those rubber plugs into the hole and sealing against rust, then a "X" slice into the center of the plug so any water drains? I remember in the 70's, my chrysler had numerous vent plugs in the lower inside body panels which drained any water out of those fender cavities. Maybe something like this?

 

Okay, since my trunk was raided for souvenir's .. what is this in the picture?

 

Says 'Decker' and Silverstone Disk Changer Plus' on it, my guess is it is a CD changer!

 

Mystery solved.. lol.. was thinking a first aid kit normally went there?

 

Give that man a prize!
Becker Silverstone, model #2660.
Plug and play with the Navigation radio.

 

Okay now that the cartoons have played.. back to the main feature.. any inside information on something like this procedure?

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post492272

 

Once again 180 your the man! Don't know that I have any standing water but an ounce of prevention..

 

I guess I should have included that most of the leaking problems were caused by an accident that the vehicle was in before I bought it. I knew it had minor front end damage by the Carfax report, but when we went in to find out the source of the leaks, it was evident w/the panels removed that it had rear end damage as well. A car wreck sandwich with my car the meat??? They had completely replaced the rear clip and when they put the parts back on they did not put in a new gasket under the wing plate, did not fully re-essemble all the the bits in the gas filler area, correctly re-install the rear hatch gasket and the rubber conduit flex hose that carries the wires from the top of the car to the hatch. They shop used special dyes for the water test to see where it was leaking. As you can imangine from the above, it was coming in everywhere. I didn't see it because the water in all the cases was running between the interior panels and the body. I need to check it to make sure all of the fixes are working since it rained a lot on my trip to Nashville. So I learned a lot about my car that I had wished I had known before I bought it.
Now I need to figure out what to do about the codes. The first one, P0455, if my info is correct is "Evap System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted". Does this mean that I need to replace this control valve? The second P1999 is not listed on the info that I have. The dealer said it was a mis-fire. ??? The third P0221 is "APP (throttle position)Sensor2 circuit performance". I don't have a clue what to do about that. It is nice to have the car self diagnose, but it would be better still if it told me what the "cure" is as well. Again, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!