Yep feel ur pain on that I know I have to drive over 2hours to go to the 1/4mile track lol and a hour to go 1/8mile I enjoy it so I usually do lol but heat soak is always a issues I'm guessing even more so when running stacked. I usually turn the car off while in line until i have to move lol( here the track is pretty slow about getting people staged and down the line ) last time I went I cut 3 back to back 1.6 60ft on street tires and ran 12.1-12.3 and 12.1 almost every time but my elevation is low (but on street tires that made my day) am usually in the high 11.9-11.8 when on drag radials but I've only borrowed sets while at the track need to get a set of my own... I know I'm following boostmonky and anyone else who stacks to see how it does heats got to be the problem (cuz soon I'm going stacked myself and nos lol but I don't use the car as a daily it's only my weekend fun car looking forwarded to ur furtue runs and boostmonky (actually everyone's lol)

 

HI Guys
Went to the race track again.
Conditions were very good, track was super sticky, temp 67 degs, air density converted to about 1100 ft.
I had my drag radials at 14psi & the car was really hooking up.
Track would not let me use my race dumps because it was louder than 90 decibals, what a joke as I was following the outlaw class who are way louder!
I didnt pay any attention to my reaction time because I was looking for quarter mile ET
I ran consistent 12.1 ET with 1.7 sec 60 ft times & 111 to 112 top speed. But just could not go 12 or under
Going to install my killer chiller & run again at the last meet in two weeks if not rained out?
My dashdaq was working fine but lately it looks like it is data recording but no files on card, any ideas?
I will try to post a couple of time slips
Thanks
Barry

 

holy **** barry....that's flying!

 

times are right there. .2 will be tough to find unless you can pull another .1 off the 60 ft time. who is tuning? for the dashdaq you need to format the sim card. your supposed to turn off the dashdaq before removing the card and many forget. try to reformat the card and see if it records . of course you will lose any data on the card doing this

fwiw i ran e/c tunes for 2 yrs and stayed at 12.0. couldn't break the barrier. went too buckhead imports and had tony tune my car on the dyne. ran 11.9 that night at 1 track backed it up the next day at another track 200 miles away. its the small fine things a tuner does that make the difference

 

I'm looking at the mph and believe you have belt slip or something simple holding you back. Too conservative of a tune perhaps? Regardless, pull a 1.6 and you should be there.

Les

 

Thanks for the suggestions
I am running Matt s tune from EC. The speed shop I dyno at has a program that will work om our cars,
but they are unsure how many parameters they will be able to access? So I will have to pay for the software license & then see if their are any results. This could run into the $500 - $1000 range without an improvement? Option 2 is I dyno & they tell EC were to tweak my tune. I could try running slightly leaner but I like that option the least.
I dont think I am getting any belt slip as I have Robs setup but it is possible. I want to run the killer chiller
first to see what diff it makes? Although the last meet has a good chance of being rained out.
Thanks Barry

 

Am I right in you are running meth too? My roadster turned those times on street summer compound. I had a few more MPH than you though. And that was before the wavetrac. Keep tweeking, as you should be in the high 11's....

 

My best 60' is around 1.8 but my mph is 116 to 117. Our mods are similar. My tune is perhaps a bit more aggressive than yours. Lots of timing advance in case your wondering. The difference between lean (13) and 11.8 (what I consider perfect) is around 5 hp. It's not worth the risk. You may ask why I was on running at 13? Needswings Manifolds without a retune. (OBD II cable fail) For that matter, I ran a 1/2 mile event at 13 afr but ran 104 octane in the tank, I didn't go BOOM so I guess it saved me. My current E/C tune is for 96 octane. However, my best 1/4 was with a 93 octane tune, around 12.4 AFR's. I've run countless 12.0x at 116.xx with just the 178. Running stacked, 3 to 4 psi more, you should be trapping higher. I wish I could cut 1.7's. If I could cut a 1.6 ...... dang. You need to take a look at your logs. E/C will help you. Don't expect to get lucky, it'll take effort, persistence and skill. Anyone that has cut an 11 with a Crossfire has earned my respect.

Les

 

BTW, I ran faster without the meth. After a couple of malfunctions, it's disconnected, unplugged and unused.

Les

 

what a slk32? do they get any respect in the 11's?

 

Snap! Lash me with a wet noodle. Even arrogant SLK's that run 11's have my EXTREME respect. Because any 11's from a R170 chassis deserve it, worked for it, failed and finally got it through hard work and stubbornness. That includes people named Steve.

Les

 

Porsche owners, sheesh!

Les

 

would you expect any less from us?

 

That low of a trap speed screams lean to me. I see the fuel pump in your signature along with the PSK. My guess is boost leak or you're running lean. On second thought, boost leak.

 

Pretty sure no boost leak did a smoke test before,
AFR is between 11.8and 12 in third
but I do think the tune needs some work.
Will have to see if Lower intercooler temperatures are going to give me more power. The car definitely should've been breaking the 12 second mark. as traction was not an issue
Barry

 

smoke test for vacuum leaks pressure test for boost leaks

 

Smoke test can be pressurized as well

 

Great times! My best without ice is 12.15. 11.85 with ice. So that killer chiller will probably make a notable difference. I will be watching with interest.

COOL!

I run 1.7 60' times leaving the line at WOT on the drag radials and a good track. I have ran 1.69 only a few times. If you've got good enough traction, it takes more power or lower gearing to lower the 60's.

I typically trap 113-114 at those speeds if it is of any help.

Interesting. I have leaned away from meth primarily because I prefer to keep it simple.

 

My reason for the water/meth was for cooling benefits. I sprayed before the throttle body in the beginning but the IAT's stayed the same. Then I sprayed in the Y pipe. The IAT sensor didn't read the cooler air because the spay was blown away from the sensor. I did spend a few hours on the dyno to NOT loose power. We got it adjusted just right. Then one night the controller malfunctioned and the entire contents of the washer fluid tank emptied into my engine. Thank goodness it went down into the intercooler and not into the cylinders. This happened twice. While it was working it didn't help my 1/4 mile times or lap times. In other words to be worth it you have to take on a lot of risk and tune for it. I didn't find it beneficial or worth the risk. Be afraid, very afraid and have every fail safe know to man or it will cost you an engine.

Les

 

that is why I asked... it can screw up a tune...and his MPH has to get higher....roadster was falling off at the end of the quarter... got rid of cork gaskets leak went away and mph came back... Never got a 1.6....but many a 1.7 60'