Hi all,
I have a check engine light ON and the system spits out code P0410. I know this system consists mainly of the air pump, check vavle, and solenoid and works just on startup when engine is cold / below certain temperature. What I don't get is why the CEL comes on in the middle of driving when the engine is warm and SAIS is not active??? I cleaned the check vallve and it seems to work fine (lets air through one way but not the other). Any ideas?

 

Dude.
Email me at
tighed1 at Hotmail.com

$20 gets your RCM inspected, bad joints repaired, Me So Horny mod (horn works w/o key) and the bad air pump relay replaced'.
I then test the RCM in my car and then return to you Priority Mail.


DJ

 

Could this code trip because my rear cats are deleted?

 

I've had my rear cats deleted for some time. No lights. If you haven't done the RCM fix, then send it to tighed1. It's most likely caused by a bad/burned relay which he will replace. You'll also avoid more headaches down the road.

 

WHo can say why they wrote the code for the PTCM like they did. Mine would do the same thing, I'd get the light 20 minutes after I left the driveway. I resoldered the RCM and no problem.

In fact, I've had to resolder my RCM twice in 60,000 miles for the same issue.

 

I have re-soldered the RCM only about 1k miles ago. Maybe the whole relay needs to be replaced. It did have rather burnt contacts. I think I will try and swap out the RCM with another RCM from my parts crossfire, if that one is any good of course.

 

OK, looked at RCM yesterday and found that the air pump fuse (the big orange one) is shot! Replaced the fuse. We'll see how it goes.

 

Badly pitted contacts on the relay mean you should change the relay itself (or the whole board, but that's expensive).

Fuses sometimes fracture on their own, but if it was melted/blown, the motor in the pump may be nearing its end of life and drawing excessive current.
If it blows again, you may be in for a new pump. Just dont go to Chrysler for the part!

 

I think I know exactly what happened here. I had the car in a body shop not too long ago. When I went to pick it up, and started the car, the radiator fan came on right away and was always on as long as car is in ignition or started. I asked the guy what the heck is going on but he was clueless. I did some troubleshooting at home and found out that he drove a screw that secures the left fender to the body under the hood right into the wiring harness shorting some wires together! This is by the left headlight and FAN controller/regulator. So I fixed that but didn't check the fuses. As a matter of fact pump worked after that - i know because I could hear it at start up. I think it was slightly damaged from the short but not enough to blow, but eventually after some time blew.

 

OK, so I'm pretty sure now its the pump. I manually energized the pump relay and the pump won't budge. You can hear it try to but no go. I took the pump top off and tried turning the blade manually but its SEIZED! Took apart further by taking off all the bladed to find out that everything underneath is rusty! Took apart even further and as you can see in the pictures, everything is rusty! So much for a "sealed motor" design! I have not put it back in yet so thats why I say "I'm pretty sure its the pump". FOR PICTURES CLICK HERE.

 

and I'm pretty sure you are right.
( nothing that a good glass bead blasting and some WD40 can't fix though )

 

Well, I replaced the air injection motor and so far not check engine light!