I know this in the wrong forum, but thought I might get a quicker response here instead of the wanted to buy area.

That said, I noticed about a week ago that my S/C is engaged all the time, so I need to shim it out. I emailed Eurocharged a week ago and they have not responded. I really need to get this fixed b4 caa6...

PM me with price etc, if anyone can help.

Thanks!

 

The SC will not be engaged all the time unless the electromagnetic clutch is energized, the clutch plate could be rubbing all the time though. The SC rotates due to the air passing through it and at low revs it may just appear to be engaged.
If the SC had a clutch plate gap originally and no gap is present now then the so called dog bone springs have stretched. This will ruin the other half of the clutch due to wear and heat and you will have an expensive repair to do.
A weak point of some of these after market SC pulleys is the springs, which come loose or do not act as springs and may just be plain steel that is not capable of the job.
The spring must be capable of repeatedly returning the clutch plate back to the stops. If the plate does not return then the amount that it does not return is deducted from the initial clutch clearance. In the end there will be no gap and the clutch plate will rub and cause damage.
I am expecting that there will be reports of this damage in future. The damage will be similar to that reported by RedDog.

 

Good Point , Thanks!

I guess I need to pull it off and inspect, looks like that will be my Sunday afternoon Project...

 

Many would say that what I say is all wrong, but they have no idea of any engineering principles.
Never the less when the springs are stretched too far and too often they will break.

More and more after market SC pulleys will fail, the dog bone springs and bearings are not as reliable as the OEM ones.

 

I understand what you are saying, the aftermarket pulley was always very close to the electromagnet, I'm just not sure if it is actually touching the electromagnet or not. Will have to slip belt off and see what is going on. If it is always spinning the S/C I may not have the protection needed if the secondary (intercooler) pump were to fail.

 

Start the car but do not rev up the engine . . . Is the thick black ring behind the supercharger pulley backing plate turning? Use a small rubber mallet to put pressure on the black ring and see if you can easily stop it from turning. If you can stop it, your supercharger is not engaged but just free wheeling spinning. You're OK . . . that won't hurt anything. The fact is that the supercharger engages when you first rev the engine over about 1500 RPM and then it stays engaged until you shut off your engine.

If you can't easily stop the black ring from spinning when you first started the car, then you should remove the pulley and put a thicker (or a second) shim ring behind the supercharger pulley (just to be sure the supercharger pulley will hook up properly when it is engaged).

 

I can spin the black ring freely with the car turned off, and can stop it from spinning with the car running at idle using a good bit of force using a hammer with the rubber handle end contacting the ring. So I think I may be okay...good news since I found out I have another broken drivers side motor mount...time to strap this thing down.

 

I think that you should check the gap between the black rotor and the clutch plate. who's to say it does not rub slightly when it is all warmed up. You could have a couple of thou clearance now but none later and we are not talking of cheap parts here. The clutch plate should also be rotated with a constant gap all around.

 

I am getting a constant .0025 all the way around with engine at operating temp. Am I correct in measuring this in thousandths of an inch or should I be looking at the metric scale?

 

I doubt you can measure that gap within .0005", so I'm thinking you have .025" gap, which is a bit high I'd say. But .0025, if it is that, is too close.
I think you have probably made a typo on the dimension, .025 is less that 1/32" by .007".
You can measure it in any system you want, let's stick to thousandths for the US market though.
If I recall correctly the OEM should have .012" to .016" (.30 to .40 mm) gap.
After market ones should be as the maker says I guess.

 

I am using feeler gauges to measure, and yes it is .0025, and I agree that it is too close. And I believe Eurocharged quotes the factory spec for this gap, I will try to verify that with them tomorrow, which brings me back to my original inquiry about needing to find shims for the S/C pulley.

Thanks to both onehundred80 and RedDog for the assistance on this!