Greeting All,

Well, success was short lived. Replaced leaky valve cover vents and cabin filter last weekend hoping to eliminate fumes. What I did helped me determine that something below -- exhaust-system perhaps -- is also a source. Asking for a recommendation on how to pursue exact determination and what I should do for repair (hopefully not The Stealer). Is this something I should try and handle? I'm comfortable with a toolbox but have no lift. Heard there is some test (believe the guy called it a pressure test) that can help me determine if a leak exists in the exhaust system and where it is. Does such exist? Finally, if it comes to it, think I can trust a muffler shop to assess and do the job on a Crossfire correctly? Anybody ever used one for exhaust system repair? Oh yeah, forgot the last question. I've heard that SRT-6s have 4 cat converters. Is that true?

Lot's here. I thank you graciously.
JMW

 

ALL Crossfires ( from the factory ) have 4 catalytic converters.

Now some have only 2, and some have none.

 

Some people have found that the headliner smells like crayons. It comes from the glue. Perhaps that is what you smell?
Have you checked your OBD II for codes? If there is an exhaust leak you may have a code that would confirm the problem.
I found a leak from a catalytic converter from under the car. I placed the car on wood blocks, got under the car with the engine idling in park. Then by using a short length of emission hose as a probe and listening through the hose I found a crack on the back side of a converter. It was not visible from below as it was on the upper side of the converter. It worked for me; otherwise go to an exhaust/muffler shop and let them inspect the system. More than likely they will find something wrong and you will pay the price. (inspections are free, Yah, right) I removed the exhaust pipe with converter welded the crack myself and it has been good now for six months.

 

Hi . It's not the crayon scent for sure. I believe it may be the type of leak you have spoken of. The fumes are brutal now!! Also, the Check Engine light is on -- had it checked today and it's returning a p0410 code. Based on what I read on the forum, I may have several things going on -- RCM, O2 Sensors, Cat Converter(s), Exhaust Leak, Secondary Air Pump, some valve with a blue cover? Where to begin is the challenge.

Please share what yall think of this approach for starters and if there is anything I should do before Monday:

- Will remove and inspect RCM. If bad, will send to the member that does repairs next week;

- I have 2 exhaust inspection scheduled (Monday and Tues). They probably will find a leak
or Cat issue (lol). Will share results here.

Thank You!
JMW

PS - Hey Zip439 - Incredible resourcefulness on your part to track that leak down and do the repair!!! Kudos to you. It's all the people like you here that are willing to do and share that make this Crossfire Forum number 1!

 

It does sound like you may have several issues. The P0410 code is usually the contacts on the air pump relay on the RCM. That system runs about two minutes at the start up of a cold engine. I doubt it would be producing your exhaust fume smells, but the code and problem should be addressed and corrected. I had a 2098 code which motivated me to get under the car and find the converter leak.
I read in another post that you made some repairs to the valve cover breathers ( the smaller covers on top of the valve covers) and you mentioned some broken screws. Definitely inspect not only the breather covers, but your valve covers. If you had broken the seal on the valve covers and then retightened them without completely removing the cover and cleaning the mating surface you could easily have a leak on the main valve covers especially at the rear lower edge. OF COURSE that is the most difficult area to inspect. Even when the car is not running there will be a puddle of oil along the bottom edge of the value cover, so there is always oil in that location ready to seep out of the valve train and out onto the exhaust. You will have to discount the fuel line in order to get the value cover off the engine to completely clean that mating surface. If you get that far I would use a new gasket upon assembly and put a very thin wipe of Permatex #2 non harding gasket sealer on the lower half of the mating surface as added protection against seepage/leak when reassembling. The upper half of the mating surface of the value cover does not have the standing oil behind it so I felt comfortable without the Permatex above the standing oil. As originally assembled only the gasket is used to make the seal between the value cover and the engine. Many people do not use the Permatex and have had good results. Be sure you use a good torque wrench and set it properly when reassembling all these covers. I used stainless steel screws with allen heads and they all use very little torque when tightening. Sorry I don't remember exactly what those torque specs are.
GOOD LUCK.

 

An interesting development. Removed the RCM to inspect last evening, left the battery disconnected and re-installed today. Fired the car up and took a short test ride. Ran it about 20 minutes and noticed only a hint of fumes (still kinda hard to tell because the scent is in the cabin). Then I turned the air conditioner on and it blew cold air (as of yesterday before removing the RCM it did not blow cold air). And to boot, the Check Engine light was not lit, meaning no more P0410 code for now.

I don't know what to make of all this except for maybe unplugging and plugging the RCM and/or leaving the battery disconnected overnight reset something. In any case, I'm going to still have the exhaust system looked at tomorrow and ship my RCM off to Tighed for repair (did not see distinct solder cracks like in the example, but connections were not like the others).

If anyone has a theory or have experienced such as described above, would be interesting to hear.

Thanks!

 

Hi Everyone,

Wanted to follow up here. Good news!!! Had a local shop inspect my exhaust system today. He found a previous welding repair that had cracked. It was positioned below the shift console, hence fumes were leaking from there into the cabin. He cleaned it up and re-welded the pipe for me. So much for the honesty of the seller but that's OK, cause it's working out fine. Drove the car for about an hour at various speeds and I am happy to say, NO MORE EXHAUST FUMES! Only cost me $65.00. Still would like Tighed to service my RCM -- Sent an email requesting shipTo address. Tighed, if you are still servicing RCMs, please let me know.

Thanks again everyone!
JMW

 

Hi All,

Just wanted to share on this issue, give a special thanks to all, and especially, a public shout-out of gratitude to Tighed for the excellent job he did repairing my RCM. Funny thing was after inspecting the soldered connections, I was not sure it needed service but I figured I'd send it anyway. Obviously it did!! The 2 pics attached show the part inside that Tighed returned to me along with my RCM -- contacts burnt as 10 minute toast!!

Quickly popped the RCM back in and after starting, I heard the secondary pump work for a short while (not sure I ever heard that before) and more importantly, no Check Engine light!!.

Then ran if for a while and absolutely no scent of fumes... inside or out!!!.

Tighed, you have another super- satisfied customer!!!.

Thanks a mint! -- and thanks to all others that helped me with this.

JMW