Expanded list of lamp sizes (HID, Halogen, and LED), all in one location.
PLEASE STICKY THIS!

2008.08.10 Update: 1) Created a workaround for the issues with LED lamps flickering and failing, which is an acute issue especially in the license plate fixture. See license plate lamp section for the workaround. (This probably also solves the issue of LEDs flickering and failing in the interior fixtures of the vehicle as well (like the glovebox), though I haven't tested it yet). 2) Issues with resistors and "lamp out" indicator persist, see bottom of post. 3) Now testing white LED replacements for high beam and fog lamps. Will post results soon!

Headlamp: Low Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: H7 High Intensity Discharge (HID).
Notes: 4,300K is the average color temperature on cars equipped with HID out of the factory. 4,300K is also the most often suggested HID color temperature for the Crossfire on this forum. 4000K is yellow-white, 6,000K is white-blue, 8,000K is green-blue, 10,000K is blue, 12,000K is purple. Another thing to consider: white LEDs generally give off a color temperature of about 6,000K. If you install the eyelid lamps I suggest below then your car will look best with 6,000K HID lamps to match.

Headlamp: High Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: Do not use an HID lamp in this position! HID lamps take considerable time to get to full bright; you want your high-beams to come on at full intensity instantly. Also, HIDs should NEVER be turned off and on without giving them a five minute cool down period.

Headlamp: Fog (Quantity 2)
Standard: 9006
Alternate: HID: 9006
Alternate: LED: I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: See "Headlamp: Low Beam" notes.

Parking: Front ("Eyelids") (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 158, 168 White
Notes: After testing a few options the brightest LED model I found was a white, 9 LED surface mounted 194 lamp. The color temperature also closely matched my 6,000K HID headlamps. This is the most difficult to change lamp in the entire car: you will need needlenose pliers to turn the gray socket-****. Just know that it can be changed without removing the entire headlight assembly or any other equipment. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).

Parking: Front Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Amber
Notes: I suggest a 5-LED 194 lamp with four side-firing LEDs, and one top mounted for this position. Angle the lamp when installing it to fit it in the fixture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).

Parking: Rear Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Red
Notes: see Front Sidemarker notes.

Turn Signal: Front and Rear (Quantity 4)
Standard: 7507A
Alternate: LED: 7507 Amber
Notes: The brightest LED I have found is a 57-LED Amber 7507 sold by eBay user "cal-motor". The lamp is the largest diameter that will fit in the fixture (26mm wide). It is comparable to the standard turn signal in intensity. When installing these you'll want to put a small amount of the least-stick glue you can find in the socket with the lamp. You'll need to push the lamp into the socket, and remember that it fits (though just barely). The glue is to keep the lamp attached to the socket whenever you try to remove it from the light fixture housing (both front or back turn signals). The most annoying thing in the world is trying to retrieve the lamp from the fixture using needlose plyers if it falls out of the socket. Just keep in mind that you want the glue to be cheap stuff so that you can replace the lamp if it ever fails. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow and lamp will flash fast).

Tail Brake (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7528
Alternate: LED: 7528, 1157 Red
Notes: Again, I'm going to suggest the ebay user "cal-motor"'s 57-LED 1157 for this position. It matches the amber turn signal in output, pattern, and size, and similarly is the largest lamp that can fit in the fixture. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).

Third Brake
Part of the car. Don't break it.

Back-Up (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7506
Alternate: LED: 7506, 1156, 1141, 382 White
Notes: I went with the 57-LED 1156 from ebay user "cal-motor" as it was the largest LED lamp I could fit in the fixture. It also matches my tail lamps and turnsignals in looks both illuminated and off. You do sacrifice a small amount of light when switching to a LED for this purpose; but who knew backing your car up could grab so much attention? You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).

License Plate (Quantity 2 *See Order Notes)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: This lamp is 36mm in length. I suggest a festoon 2-LED lamp that is built in a rectangular metal casing about the same size as the factory lamp. It is difficult or impossible to fit a square configuration LED in this spot. Also, many of the six-LED variations (shown below as an attachment with a NO sign on it) are not sealed and fail quickly because of rust from moisture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).

UPDATE: These smaller LED lamps flicker and die for two reasons: 1. the most common model (shown below as a white cylindar with six LEDs and silver conections on either side) is not sealed and the connections on the inside rust and short. 2. The Crossfire was never meant to use LED lighting; the wiring produces overvoltages that while safe for standard lamps are disasterous for small LEDs. Here are the workarounds: 1. Get the type of LED light now shown below with two LED lamps on an all metal fixture. The only thing you'll need to do to seal it place a piece of clear packaging tape firmly over the two LEDs. Hover over the thumbnails below to see which 6418 LED is wrong, and which is right. 2. Buy this voltage regulator and install it in between the lamp and the battery (or if you're using load resistors, in between those and the lamp): http://theledlight.com/rg12regulator.html

Glove Box, Cargo Area, Map (Quantity 4)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: See License Plates Order Notes. Inside does not need resisitor.

UPDATE: I still haven't gotten all of the resistors to work - my "lamp out" indicator is still illuminating. I'm not particular enough to go to the extreme length required to install all of the load resistors, and have instead installed a tiny piece of black electrical tape on my dashboard to cover the "lamp out" indicator.

 

Wow this is great info and should be a sticky. When I ordered my LED's I had to do a ton of searching to find the information you just posted thanks again.

 

Great info- I'm looking to purchase LEDs for my crossfire. Any suggestions on good place to purchase these LEDs.

 

any suggestions on were to purchase the LED's.

 

LED SHOPPING LIST: (if you don't want to read all of the above)

Notes: you will need to be an eBay member to buy like I did. I found it was the best way to go when looking for LED lamps.

Ebay user "cal-motor" located in California, USA shipped to Ohio in two days the following items:
x10 6418 White LED (Festoon 36mm 6-LED lamp for glove box, cargo area, license lights, and map lights. you will need 6, but have four extras because these burnout easy).
x2 1157 Super Red 57-LED lamps for taillights.
x4 7507 Super Amber 57-LED lamps for turnsignals.
x2 1156 White 57-LED lamps for back-up
x2 194 Red 5-LED for rear sidemarkers
x2 194 Amber 5-LED for front sidemarkers

Ebay user "itechleds" supplied me with these, but there are many ebay sellers with them if they are out:
x2 194 9-LED for eyelids

The resistors can be found on many websites online, including:
http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm
Scroll down past the flashers and you'll see them.

 

How do you install the resistors?

 

How do you install load resistors for the LED lamps in the Crossfire? A great question, to which I don't have the specific answer. You need to use the load resistor with one end connected to the lamp's grounding wire, and another to the lamp's hot wire. If you're talking the taillamps, then you have three wires to choose from: in this case use the ground and the hot wire that makes it illuminate brightest. Your first question will be "there are a ton of wires back here, which ones are the right ones?". I, unfortunately, don't have an answer for that - I decided I am fine with the lamp out indicator being descreetly covered by a piece of electrical tape, rather than taking the time and frustration to install a resistor on all pretty much all of the exterior lights.

In reference to how the load resistors install, if you buy them from:
http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm
They will come with little clips that tap into the wires going to your lamps, rather than you having to cut and splice anything.

 

Thanks for putting this list together!

 

great post! some rides i've put led's into have a problem with signals blinking extra fast as well as the light out indicator being displayed. two companies that i know of, Tridon and Grote make flashers specifically for led applications. when we installed the unit it slowed the blink rate and the light out indicator also disapeared.....

 

It's been a while since I posted this, and now I'm revisiting the license plate LED lamps. I've had never-ending issues with using LEDs in this spot, so I'm attempting a different fix by testing two different types of LED bars/modules mounted where those lights are, and connecting it directly to the power feed for the license plate lamps. I will follow up with my results soon.

In the meantime, I suspect the issue with these lamps failing so often (which includes the infamous "flicker") may have to do with under/over-voltage. Has anyone ever tested the power coming out of the license plate light sockets both with the engine running, as well as with the engine off?

 

Yay! Finally figured out a workaround for the flickering LEDs! (Check on the original post at the top to see updates).

Next stop: testing LEDs in the High Beam and Fog Lamp fixtures. I think I've found ones bright enough (similar in luminosity to halogen 50W +- 5W). Will update when tested!

 

i thought 4300 was the standard oem h.i.d

6000 seems too high! you start to lose performance headlight wise at that number. ive been told 4300 is the perfect distance

 

You know, I'm not 100% sure on this one. I parked next to a Lexus back when I first did this and my 6000K's looked like the headlights on the Lex. I always assumed the 4300K would be too yellow to be OEM, but never tested. I just know the 12,000K looked very colorful on this car.

 

Any updates? I just ordered HID's and would like to color match the fogs.

 

Nothing yet - keep checking back. The two pairs I've tried so far weren't as bright as promised, but I have another pair on order.

 

I was afraid of that. I am installing fogs along with an srt bumper on my base roadster and decided to just order some Hella Xenon bulbs for now. I had ordered some 9006 pigtails from Summit Racing and decided to just get the bulbs on the same shipping invoice.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

I hope they will look decent with the HID's.

 

Can someone help me how to install those 25ohm resistors in licence plate lights?


Thank you

 

I tried searching ebay for the user "cal-motor" and returned nothing. Anyone have a link?

 

Installing those resistors for the license plate lights involves two things.

1. You have to remove the cover on the inside of the hatch to gain access to the wires on the back side of the socket housings.

2. Each wire coming out of the socket housing needs to have one end of the resistor clipped on to it. These are self tapping connectors. I call them leech connectors because they leech off the line.

Also remember these resistors WILL get hot. You may want to get some kind of metal clip to mount them on, or wrap them in fiberglass to insulate them from the metal hatch and keep them from rattling around.

I'm glad someone found out why they flicker, I never had time to track it down. Regulators for me!!!

 

Any one have any good luck removing the sockets where the 2 front marker lights are? I have installed HID's and dont like the yellow light in the headlight assembly next to the HID's. Tried and could not get any leverage to get them to budge.