Tim,
#1) I was told by my dealer that the tail lamp harness was NOT available separately.
#2) Yes but even that is an expensive option.
#3) Not sure since I didn't go that route. But I don't think you really need to pull the tail lamp assembly, you should just be able to pull out the harness because it is separable from the tail lamp assembly.
MY New Thoughts) A mechanic friend of mine said he would have simply replaced the sockets with generic aftermarket sockets. IE build a new custom harness out of commonly available sockets and connectors, not OEM parts. He estimated he would have done it for a 1 hr charge and less than $20 in materials. If I had it to do-over I would go that route.
Regards, Atlanta SRT6

 

Looking for the sockets may be a tedious task, there was plenty of head scratching before the front eye brow light was sourced and it came from Europe.
I would imagine that a similar situation would occur with the rear light sockets.

 

Don't spend a ridiculous amount on this.. if you can't source a replacement socket give me a shout. Horses took out one tail light on my roadster.. the replacement I bought from a "parting out" came chipped up on the edges..so wasn't used.. I purchased one off ebay and all fixed up.. Then worked a deal and have a spare.. LOL.

 

Forum,
For the record:
1. With the body wiring harness disconnected from the tail lamp assembly wiring harness > To remove the tail lamp assembly wiring harness connector that is clipped to the assembly: As you look at the lamp assembly itself, the connector is just below and inboard of the stop/tail lamp socket. Lift the left/outboard side of the connector towards you. The connector then slides to the left and is separated from the lamp assembly. After removing the 3 sockets from the assembly, the harness can be removed form the car vice the entire tail lamp assembly. Troubleshooting and repair of the harness and/or sockets is SIGNIFICANTLY EASIER when you can remove it from the car. Plus you won't have to disassemble the cargo compartment (Roadster) to access the 3rd tail lamp assembly mount (to remove the entire lamp assembly).
2. As for the stop/tail lamp socket itself: The following were stamped on the socket CEMM as well as PA66. Even Google couldn't cross these to anything relevant. Short of a visual comparison @ the NAPA (etc.) counter, sourcing an alternative non OEM replacement socket won't prove easy.
3. Ultimately after voltage verification check (with socket disconnected from body harness and connected to same) and continuity checks of the socket, I sprayed all sockets and connector out with isopropyl alcohol and using a jewelers straight slot screwdriver adjusted the 12 vdc contacts and gently pried the ground contact away from the socket sidewall slightly.
4. Passenger tail lamp works as advertised.

 

You do NOT have to remove any trim panels from the roadster to access the tail lights.
Just cycle the top part way and stop where the top is up, and the tonneau cover is still raised.
You can then just reach in and access the sockets, or even the 10mm nuts securing the entire assembly.

NOTE : brace the tonneau with something as the hydraulic pressure will release after about 20 minutes, and down she comes !
I use a piece of PCV between the top bow latch and the tonneau latch.

 

If you put the beer down before starting this.. you are well done before that 20 minutes.. LOL.. About a two minute removal job..and that's if you have to hunt for the 3 nuts holding it on.

 

I would NEVER attempt to work on any car here in Alabama without a beer in hand !!!!
Word might get out and all the rednecks would stop talking to me me.
( Well, that might be a good thing ! )
I still haven't figured out how to install a rifle/shotgun rack in my roadster .......

 

Forum,
1. I already access the rear bulbs via the tonneau cover raised method.
2. Regarding tail lamp assembly removal vice tail lamp wiring harness removal, Only 2 (outboard left & lower center) of the 3 tail lamp assembly mounting studs are visible/accessible. The upper inboard stud is somewhere behind the cargo compartment molding. Assuming I can even reach it, I'm leery of attempting to remove same in the blind. No telling where the nut will wind up.
3. Passenger brake lamp was fine for ~ 1.5 days, then pulling into the garage last night the bulb out indicator lamp was set. Finished pulling in and lowered garage door > depress brakes > passenger side inop. This morning on way to work (50 degrees F), no problems/bulb out indicator.
4. Obviously the problem has transitioned from constant to intermittent. MrMiata I very well may avail myself of your very generous offer. Scanning the right hand instrument cluster EVERY time I use the brakes is an unnecessary distraction.

 

I WAS able to access all 3 10 mm nuts on both sides of mine through the raised tonneau.
Agreed, that 3rd one is hard to see, but you can easily get to it by feel alone.
all you need to do is loosen it with a wrench/socket, then spin it off by hand.

 

Forum,
And then there's this little jewel I came across on the SLK 320 Forum: I got a Saftey Recall letter from Mercedes.

Campaign # 2006080005
1-800-367-6372 to speak with Customer Realations Staff.
Certain model years 1998-2004 SLK-Class Tail Light Assemblies based on your VIN #.

Heat generated by the Brake lamps, the base of the lamp sockets can be subject to thermal deformation over time. The deformation can cause movement in the socket-to-bulb connection, which may lead to a loosening of the electrical contacts in the sockets, and a failure of the bulb to illumiante.

Center brake lamp not affected.

 

Wow, that seems like it applies exactly, wonder if Chrysler has a copy of it?

 

Wow ,that would explain a lot of the reasons why people are replacing them

 

Seems like I got the same exact problem...the socket for the break light (middle) is cracked and the bulb will not stay in...this is only on the drivers side.

I checked eBay but I don't see anything...Googled with no results that looked like they were for a crossfire.

Anyone know where I can get the socket or even the entire harness?

 

Which way is it cracked?
This whole post is about not being able to find a socket.
You need to get the part number off of it and look for it on the web.
All these sockets are commonly used and not specific for the Xfire.