So I went ahead and replaced all my marker lights and the front parking lights with LEDs all in 6000k and canbus enabled. Yesterday two of them burned out at the same time and today I switched back to the regular 194 bulbs. This sucks because I really want to keep LEDs in the marker lights and have the 6000k temp ranges for the front parking lights especially.

How can I get these to NOT burn out and stay working for a long time? I read around the forum as much as I could and some said resistors help, but some said they didnt. I also read that voltage regulators is what I should be looking for.

My question is, how would I go about putting the regulators on the LEDs?

For reference, these are the LEDs I had in all the markers, and 2 went out in less than 2 months, yesterday.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...se-tower/1127/
Even though they are canbus, could it be the open ended design of the base of the LEDs that killed em? Would I need to get the same ones but with the sealed plastic base like these: http://www.superlumination.com/image..._6led_w_wm.jpg
or maybe this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PC-7000K-PU...946#vi-content

The link above, would that make more sense to use in the parking lights? It's a sealed unit all together.



EDIT: Also, which CANBUS leds did you guys have good luck with in terms of actually lasting a long time with no issues??

 

I was thinking of adding some LED's and also wish someone had some info on this.

 

Yeah, can anyone chime in on this with any help?

 

My thoughts are pointing toward it being canbus. My non-canbus LEDs are open ended and have worked flawlessly for well over a year now. I bought them from the superbrightleds.com store. Ive actually installed a number of non-canbus LEDs (2 on LP, 2 on markers, 2 in dome, 1 in trunk) - I haven't had any issues with them except the dome which have a bit of poor connection. So if you can get past having to the see the "light out" icon on your cluster, you may give normal LEDs a go. Otherwise I would agree with getting the closed ended CANbus instead of the openended, although your front lights shouldn't have moisture issues so I would be surprised if that's what caused your front parking light LEDs to fail.

 

Here's the funny part, about 3 weeks ago I bought and put in the front eyelid parking lights canbus LEDs that are open ended just like the one from superbrightleds.com

The thing is though, I bought a set of 10 of them from amazon, and so far so good on them working. I didn't notice any flicker from them either. If these end up working better than the ones from superbrightleds.com and don't burn out, I'm gonna have to go slap some people around over there.

Btw Kolme, can you link me to the models with no canbus that you bought, just for reference?

 

I just pulled some canbus LEDs out of the eyebrow sockets and replaced them with higher power non-canbus ones. I left the lights on while I was doing it to help me see what I was doing and when I pulled the canbus bulbs out of the socket I burned my fingers! I don't think LED's should be that hot & those things were running really hot. I suspect that may be caused by the built-in resistors that supply the correct value for the bulb out system to detect them. I haven't tried touching the non-canbus replacements to find out how hot they run as they're a pain to get at and I don't particularly want to burn my fingers again, but I've swapped the map lights for non-canbus ones and I'll be changing the marker lights too as soon as replacements arrive as a precaution - I don't want to run the risk of melting plastic lenses.