Hey guys/girls, so I kept trying to find a solution for the LED turn signal hyperflash on our cars.

Here's an article that might have a solution for us to work with if someone is willing to try it that's more skilled at wiring.
dRock96Marquis' LCM flasher bypass

I know it's for a crown vic lighting control module, but it might just work for ours if the setup isn't too different.

 

Don't CAN buss compatible LED's prevent the hyperflash since they draw the same current as incandescent bulbs?

 

That defeats the purpose of going LED in order to lessen total electrical system draw though. Hence why I don't use CANBUS resistor enabled LEDs.

 

The only place you would need to use resister LED's is the turn signal bulbs. If you don't care the indicator is on then all the rest can be regular LED.

Why are you trying to save power anyway?

 

Well, less load on the alternator itself is never a bad thing, and overall lower power draw means you tax the wiring less. No need to use silly incandescent bulbs if there's something better around right? I am a lighting fanatic in a sense, I enjoy finding new ways to push the light envelope while getting better results.

 

BIG problem I have with vehicle lights of ANY type, is the morons who jack the front end up and blind everyone with their low beams OR those who add brighter lights and adjust them to blind others either accidentally or intentionally. No matter what the end result is dangerous blinding of the 'other guy'. People, if your going to add higher output lights to your car then make sure you don't blind others. Many have night vision problems already and your making it worse for them. Have the new lights PROFESSIONALLY realigned, this requires a graph on LEVEL ground with a front end in good condition. It also involves the vehicle correctly configured in regards to load and weight distribution per the manufacturers specs on a non-modified vehicle. If you modify any of the suspension, the headlight aiming MUST be redone to insure correct coverage on the roadways. OK, done with my rant now I'll go back to chat-sleep.


.

 

I'm an electronics guy, exactly how much current are you saving on the Crossfire with all LED exterior lights? Minus headlights and fogs that is and using non-resister bulbs..

 

Well, pretty much all the bulbs take up around 21 watts, maybe more in some cases. LED based bulbs on the other hand will draw around 4 at most per bulb, which is a considerable offload from the electric system for a car. I prefer LED efficiency over halogen cost more or less, so I'm willing to work with the LEDs a bit. Plus the provide better color temperatures in the kelvin scale, which means better output through colored plastic lenses such as the brake lights. Instant ON/OFF is also a perk for me.

 

Let's mark it all out:
Headlight LOWS: 35 watt Morimoto HIDs in 5500k instead of 55watt H7 halogens
Headlight HIGHS: standard halogen H7
Headlight markers: 1watt OSRAM LED, instead of the 5watt 194 bulbs
Exterior side markers: 1 watt LEDs x4, over 194 5watt bulb x4
Rear brake lights: CREE based "25watt" LEDs drawing 4watt of actual power, versus 1157 halogens bulb around 21 watts of draw
Rear reverse lights: CREE based "20watt" LEDS drawing 3.5 watts of actual power, versus 1156 halogens at 21 watts of draw
Interior lights(ALL): 1 watt 194/festoon types, instead of the 5 watts 194/festoon types.

 

Yur gunna make me do the math? I wanted you to do the math...


Seriously, no matter. Watts is power current is amps. We save all the amps on LED's then use it on aftermarket subs.

The "fix" to the turn signal issue seems way deeper than I need to go. I like simple and simple would be use resister LED's for the turns and the rest as you say. Whalla, simple.

 

Who said I'm putting in big subs? LOL I have no plans for using any additional subs than what the car has already. I have the newer Infinity Ref 6032cf in the doors, along with a new Kenwood BT955HD headunit. Sound is fairly good already overall, and I don't need massive subs to rattle my trunk latch lol