Well I guess I have you beat by exactly one year! Happy Birthday! ENJOY your Crossfire!

 

My Karmen 62mm supercharger pulley grenaded on the second track session. Punched two big dents in the hood. Down for the day!
Also in about the middle of the first session my BAS ESP light came on. Not sure what caused that but it stops the transmission from shifting and shuts down the supercharger. Came into the pits. When I restarted the car everything seemed OK. Then went out for the second session and that's when the pulley grenaded and the BAS ESP light came on again. Never did get a full session run.

 

BUMMER DUDE !!!

I can't believe you don't carry a spare

 

What? Holy ..... Man I'm sorry to hear the news and a bit shocked it just exploded on you.

When it comes time to replace it I'd put the stocker on with a 178 ASP crank pulley. At least that was my progression. My supercharger pulley gave lots of warning as it was getting iffy.

Les

 

Damn, I thought those were going to be bulletproof. Sorry to hear that. Better that it happened at the track instead of on some remote highway I suppose. Was there any collateral damage, and what piece failed?

 

The steel backing plate came apart.
I'll take some photos and post them tomorrow.

 

so it was the 62mm pulley. 180 mentioned a 65mm, which don't exist. Please post up the a photo. I will inspect mine today. It has ran a couple of half mile events and some street pulls..... Need to get on this right away. Sorry to have had your day ruined. Glad I saved my old 65mm...it may be getting put back on...

 

Here is a photo of the broken Karmen 62mm pulley. . .

dba0b5ee-2299-4dd2-a1b7-e5c5172f0608_zps35abd616.jpg

AND my damaged hood! (my camera does not take good close up photos)

4067d224-8111-4c99-b6ed-00ea0d63463a_zpsa7d7f9e2.jpg

 

Now THAT was funny! (In my frustration at the track yesterday it went right over my head).

 

These clutch plates are made from an iron of some form and iron is brittle, that looks like a coarse grained material, they should be a fine grained material. The work hardening can cause it to get coarser grained, I guess there should have been more material from the rivet to the edge of the slots.
Edit
As it started at the rivet I guess it is possible that the load to set the rivet was to high and cracked the material from the rivet hole to the circular lot. The picture of the other failure is strictly a slot failure though.
If the clutch plate hits the magnet first on one edge and then flattens against it because the gap between the magnet and clutch plate are way different from side to side, then perhaps the uneven loading will lead to cracks.

 

Another important lesson I (re)learned at the Homestead Motor Speedway . . . Running on the race track is HARD on a car. I had two SRT6s up at the track and after my #1 SRT6 broke down, both my son and I were taking turns running the rescue roadster for the remainder of the day. I realized that a brake upgrade would be wise if I intend to race either of my cars again . . . and the tires take a hell of a beating, etc.

In the past, I've always run other people's cars on the track . . . not my own car. I have to decide if I want to own a race car or just a nice looking, fast personal pleasure car. That decision is actually pretty easy. I can't afford to own / run / maintain a race car! Time to get the SRT6s cleaned up, back in proper running order and just enjoy driving them on the road. TOD, CAA6 here I come!

I'll only be driving other people's cars on the race track from now on . . . Bondurant High Performance Driving School . . . Here I come!

Stingray High Performance Driving | Bondurant.com

 

Hi Red Dog,


I appreciate this post. A friend of mine has been wanting me to do this, of course he has a Ford GT set up for the track and that is all he uses it for. Since all of my high performance cars are convertibles it gave me an excuse to look for a coupe. After finding out about the SRT6 I went after one. I found mine with only 8,450 miles and felt the low mileage might encourage me to be a little more careful on the track. Guys can justify anything But reading this post, I now question the wisdom of even taking this beauty on the track. I might have a lead on a non-srt crossfire, a six speed for a very reasonable amount, how do you think it would do?


Dave

 

Any track time is going to kill the brake pads. It's best to have dedicated pads and only put them in for track days. The front tires are a problem. They get eaten alive long before the rears. Not because 225, more because of all the nice soft rubber parts, roll and dive. If you follow someone who has R compound rubber your going to eat a lot of rocks. I use lots of road wrap and blue tape which helps. As far as wear and tear on the mechanical parts, I still haven't seen any. The car has strong even compression, the transmission seems to shift the same as new. After re packing the wheel bearings with good synthetic grease (amsoil) no trouble with them. I've destroyed the front control arm bushings several times. Now I have Kmacs and so far so good. To sum up: track time with street tires kill brake pads, tires, front bushings, rock chips on the nose and windshield. Moving up to race rubber adds a few consumables to the list.

Les

 

As I mentioned in the other thread, I too stated it may have been an assembly error on the pressure used on the rivets.....causing a crack to form across the plate. I will get mine off in a few weeks and inspect it. I have 4k miles on mine...so, I'm thinking no longer than you ran yours, it was bad from the get go. They should replace it... Doesn't help the hood, but it should be replaced....