It appears that my 04 needs a new ignition switch. I need some help with a quick fix to get it to the dealer to replace. Any ideas or help. The key goes in and out fine but will not turn.

 

I had the same problem. I brought it in to the dealer when it was still under warranty to fix the problem. Had to wait for parts to come in. What worked for a while is the following: jiggle steering wheel left, while trying to turn your key, if you time it just right, the wheel lock should catch and let it turn over. Try to get it to the dealer and leave it there. I had mine completely not turn over and had to get a tow out of a parking garage. Some people have said it costs $700 to fix w/o warranty.

 

I keep seeing about lubricating with lock grease. Mine is dead right now, can't turn it over, better yet, the windows are down and it's going to rain sometime within the next few hours. I bought some WD-40, at first I thought I'd spray the key and insert it, can I just shoot it inside the keyhole?? Would that be safe. I'm off of work in 2 hrs any ideas before then would save my leather seats.

Thanks in advance.



Justin

 

Okay, so yay for me!!! (Insert sarcasm here) Good thing my ins policy has roadside, I had it towed to my house rather than pay storage fees for I don't know how long. No warranty, '05 Limited and the lock is, well locked!!! The key won't budge and the steering wheel is locked. I am screwed. I spent part of yesterday and today trying to get that lock cylinder out and it's a no go. I started ripping apart the dash to get to the cylinder from below and this is just a mess. I'm going to try again tomorrow to get this thing out.


It gets better, it's been raining on and off for the last day and a half and my windows are stuck open. Trying to protect the leather seats as best I can, right now it's sitting outside with towels covering both sides.

So does anyone have a wiring diagram so I can at the very least jump battery voltage across the window switches to raise the window.

Also can I install a switch, like a push button start or a toggle switch to avoid a key all together and just use the RKE for un/lock doors?? Once again wiring diagrams a must...


I hope all your Independence Day's are better (no hope needed for I'm sure everyone is having a helluva better time than I)


Thanks in advance



Justin

 

There's another thread about someone replacing thier ignition/lock assembly. Check it out for lots of details. Sorry, I'd link it, but I don't remember where it is.

Also, download the service manual from the sticky thread in the SRT-6 subforum.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=13875

That should give you enough info to get it out.

Good luck!

 

Yeah, I already searched and I have the manual. It's just that I need wiring diagrams instead of step by step diagrams.

Plus I found that what all the other threads are saying about lock cylinder removal is while their key still turns whereas mine doesn't the lock cylinder is "locked". So now I have the dash apart (which isn't fun at all) and I'm going to get to it from the bottom instead of straight on. Only thing is with all the rain we're having and my windows are in the open position. I do not have a garage, I'm on on & off street parking.


Justin

 

Well, it sounds like getting the windows up is the priority. I would pop the interior door panel and connect 12 volts of power to the window motor and get that window up.

Or you could try applying the power at the fuse box. I believe there is a fuse for the power windows. You could apply 12v positive to the fuse and 12v negative to the frame. That should get the power windows operational.

Take another look at those service manuals. I'm sure the wiring diagrams are in there. I've seen them in the SRT manual. It would be pretty safe to assume that the ignition and power window wiring would be the same between models.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

 

I was thinking about jumping B+ tp the motor, it's just that I don't want to take the doors apart as well (Laziness) if I can do it to just the switches which are easy to get to next to the shifter, that panel just pops up.

As far as applying power to the fuses, power is already applied, the switches are what applies ground to the motors. Fuses are power side of a circuit and switches are usually ground side (Can be power side switched as well though) to protect the switches themselves. The load (window motors) will have the greatest voltage drop, and with that said; Ohm's Law applies P=IE or I2R. No voltage then it dowsn't matter how much current you're pushing, there's no power.

I'll keep looking for those wiring diagrams though. I just need to know what color wire goes to the window up. Then life will be better, not back to good, but it will be better.


Justin

 

Dude, you missed the point of applying the power at the point of the fuse. The idea there is that the ignition switch is between the fuse and battery, not between the fuse and the window motor. Thus, by applying 12v+ to the fuse, you skip the problem that the ignition can't be turned.

Of course, after you apply power to the fuse, you still have to press the button on the center console to raise the window.

But, if you're so bent on shooting down any attempts to help you, why don't you just tape a garbage bag over the window and wait until a dealer is open on monday to fix the ignition.

 

Hey thanks for the garbage bag idea. I was not trying to "shoot you down". It's just that I didn't think of the fuse being in between the ignition switch and window switch. In hindsight, that would make sense, but had I had a wiring diagram I would have known, and not had to think about it. I hear the dealer charges 600-700 to fix it, I can replace a lock cylinder myself, not a hard task to do.

As for the garbage bag, I have a Crossfire car cover now which is a lot more classy.

Thanks in advance


Justin

 

Did u try the jiggle while turning the key? It might take a good amount of force !

 

Jiggling while turning the key doesn't do a thing except raise my blood pressure. I now have the lower dash apart, all electrical connectors from the lock cylinder are removed (as far as I can tell, but I still can't remove the assembly from the column. There's a little pin. The lock cylinder assembly is the male end and the steering column is the female. A pin from the lock cylinder protrudes through the female sleeve of the steering column and I can't remove it. It's not spring loaded, I tried pushing in on it while pulling on the lock assy. I think it has to do with the steering wheel being locked straight. Something along the line of a cam rotating as the wheel turns and then pushed the pin in place when locked. Scouring through the online pdf manual isn't revealing anything.

I can't get the cylinder through MB of West Chester, and D'Ambrosio Dodge wants 210$ for the lock cylinder. Has anyone on here actually done one of these before?? If so, can I get your number and you can talk me through it??


Thanks in advance


Justin

 

http://mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthrea...n+lock+removal

This "may" help

Bazzle

 

could it be something faulty in the keyfob, so the car doesn't recognize the rf signal and won't allow you to turn the ignition?

or does the rf allow you to turn the igntion, but then engine just won't actually start?

just an idea

 

Here's what's going on. It's not a no start/no crank issue. The key physically doesn't turn in the lock. Not counter-clockwise for the ACC (Accessory) Position, not clockwise to Run (Engine running) or the ON (Engine starting). I did locate wiring diagrams in the manual (thanks tom2112) for some reason I was in a "stupid day" can't read (probably due out of frustration) and I do not think I'll be jumping power to the switch. From what I can decipher from the wiring diagram is this:

The window switch sends a signal to the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM gets B+ at all times, but also gets power from the ignition switch in the On & Run positions. Without one you get nothing. The BCM has a "Window Up/Down sense circuit in which it provides power and ground to the window motors. So jumping power to the switch risks damage to the BCM is full 12V are applied if it's looking for VRef (Which is usually 3 or 5V).
So I could open the door panels and apply power & ground directly to the motor itself but I don't have leads long enough for that. So then I thought that I could remove the battery and lay it next to each door and do it that way, but in all honesty, I don't want to remove other stuff on top in rish of forgetting something.

So now I have towels over top each door and a Crossfire car cover on top as to not be an eyesore in town.

I just cut out the ignition switch/lock cylinder this morning about an hour ago. AMAZING what the right tool for the job can do. I started with a hacksaw and spent 3 hours to get a scratch in it. I went out and bought a Dremel and just cut a passageway in the the steering column for the pin in the lock cylinder to slide through without cuttin the whole cylinder assembly and 20 min later PRESTO!! she's out. I love this dremel, I'm going to cut the whole lock cylinder apart to see how it works once I get the new one, just in case I have to cannibalize something off those old one. I will post pics soon I think.


Justin

 

i'm dealing with the same problem. i just got the thing out from the bottom but i had to drill that pin down first. i also had to remove one screw from the upper cover on the right. my situation was bad too... top and windows were down. so i just removed the electrical switch from the end and with a flat blade screwdriver presto, the thing started up! first thing was to let the windows up. i guess i could drive it but i won't. so i'm taking the beast to a locksmith tomorrow and see if he can fix it. if not, i'm at the dealers mercy. rockauto.com didn't have it. the part has mercedes benz written on it so maybe mb will have the part. only number on it is 2020 YMOS.

 

I'll have part numbers for you tomorrow. Pretty much what it comes to is this, the ignition switch is part of the steering lock assembly, also comes with the black metal cap. The tumbler (comes with key, but not RFID key) goes into the steering lock assembly. I'll have those for you tomorrow. If you can, get the steering lock (if you destroyed it like me, from MB it's cheaper) the tumbler you can only get from Chrysler (which is crap because they buy it from Daimler) and is a separate assembly


Justin

 

the locksmith thinks he can fix it. so i'm pinning my hopes on him. chrysler wants $200 for the part. and the MB guy was a total idiot. he said that the crossfire was not a mercedes. so that got nowhere. will post any news i get.

 

I woke up late this morning 545am... Sorry. Am off work tomorrow (wednesday) and can post the part numbers then. If the lock (tumblers) cannot be repaired, you will be forced to get a new tumbler assembly and steering lock assembly; what the tumblers fit into. The tumblers were $138 and the steering lock was $82.00 I think?? But I get a sizeable industry discount. The ignition switch is included with the steering lock so just swap it out as well with it being one piece.

Justin

 

i talked to the locksmith and he said it was not looking like he would be able to fix it. but he was still trying. so i'm still hoping. i don't want to give the dealer $200.00 but if it comes out that is the best price... so be it.