Holy _rap !!! What started as an easy CPS swap turned into a potenial nitemare on Elm Street !!! Good thing that puppies under warranty Max !!!

 

Do tell...please! I would love to have something that will let me monitor how the car is doing outside of just trouble codes. Will the system you are referring to also tell you what the code means, or just give you a value that requires you to consult another source to find the meaning of?

 

Boy, you got that right. They didn't even have the cahones to call me with an update today. Last I was told, it would be ready tomorrow for the 1st 2 items.

Barring unforseen difficulties!

 

Report from the front:

CPS is in.

TPMS is in-no scratches on the rim.

Excessive water was just that-water (condensation). Tech saw the same thing and used a litmus-type paper tester to check for coolant and it came back negative! Thank the Great Gazoo. After a pressure bleed down test overnight.

However, I'm waiting at my lab for an experiment to be completed to rush home and wash her. He assumed (correctly) that I would prefer to do it myself.

Good man.

They DID however, vacuum it out!

 

Max, glad to hear that it was nothing. Now go bath your baby.

MikeR

 

Washed, dried (yes, under the doors) and waiting to be ridden to work in the AM.

Thanks for everyones' concern!

 

And ready for the Dragon !!

 

Gary, I think that goes without saying!!!!

 

thanks for the foot work ... very good info

 

Guys,

I had one issue where they car cut out on the way to work, coasted to the side of the road - and restarted ok. The a two weeks ago drove to work fine - no the car is stuck outside the office - will not start.

I presumed it was the CPS/ RCM issue

Car cranked - didnt start - 3 times - then nothing - if I disconnected the RCM and reconnectd it - same - tried to start 3 times etc

Got a replacement RCM fro MB - no change
Got a replacement CPS from MB - just fitted it - no change

Out of pocket - and pretty pissed!

No diagnostic codes showing - before or after ( now with my local garage - they cany see a problem - other than the 'Bleeding Obvious'

Anyone any ideas?

Help!

 

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the car on? You should hear it for a few seconds. You can check to make sure you have fuel at the fuel rail by taking the cap off the end on the front passenger side. Then press in on the check valve and you should have gas coming out. Make sure you have a towel or something there to catch the gas.

It is odd that it only cranks 3 times and then stops and has no CEL codes.


MikeR

 

Yikes ! Replaced the RCM and CPS and still no crank-no run ??? Check the connectors for the RCM, battery connections, ground connections, go back to the basics ! Eliminate the obvious !
Also be very careful checking the fuel rail !!! It will be under pressure.....no sense gettin dowsed with gasoline !

Good Luck !

 

Thanks for the heads up - fuel pump checked ok.
In desperation I moved it to a Dealer yesterday - they are saying they have a code for a faulty Imobiliser !

Could replacing the RCM have impacted the imobiliser - I have to drop in the spare key ....

Does this make sence to anyone?

Thanks.

 

I really don't see how replacing the RCM would have impacted anything but the problem, but I'd be the first to admit I'm not an expert. Best I can do for ya is to give this thread a lil "BUMP" !
Good luck !

 

Not sure if you have trouble with remotes as well? If you do this older post may help.

It talks about the order of reconnecting the Skreem module after other work.

Re: SKREEM no more! - 01-06-2009 , 05:07 PM

Final version, not as long as I thought: So I read the service manual and it scared me into thinking I have to ship the car to Germany for a proper fix. Then I looked to the forums for a solution, I feel sorry for the poor guy that was 100 miles from home. I tried the reprograming key thing but that didn't work either. And FYI, you dont need batteries in the remote to start the car.

So now I was ready to start a new thread and hope someone was in the same exact perfectly identical situation I'm in, but before I did that i decided to check the fuses. Everything checked out on the driver side so moved over to the passenger side. I opened her up and next thing I knew the hand of the devil came up slapped me square in the face and burned my nose off with a dirty curling iron. And by that I mean i found the mouse!

After four weeks of tearing my car apart and taking the bus, that bloody mouse was in the bloody fuse box! Not bloody in the morbid sense, but the way Europeans mean it.

To this day I dont know how it got in there or why it was flattend like some one shoved it in there. The wire harnesses are tight and there are no apparent vent tubes, but thats not the point of this story.

The point is how did i fix the problem? Well the service manual said nothing about having to reprogram the SKREEM unless you were getting a new one. So it must have a permanant memory. And i put new batteries in the remote thinking maybe they are out of sync with each other and just need too be re-learned as mentioned in other posts

Then I remembered that i put everything back together separately and probably cause a confusion somewhere with the computers.

But I disconnected the battery like 12 times, wouldn't that reset everything? Apparently not. So I disconnected the battery one last time. Unplugged the module for a few seconds, then reconnected it and the battery. Keyless entry worked, and the car started right up!

Moral of this story: don't be generous to a snake cause it probably doesn't care.

 

Ok Guys, - More ideas needed

Dealer has had the car for a week now. Tech support came back indicating that it may be the Sentry Key Power Entry Unit. Expensive - then may have to get new keys - Expensive - This may not fix the problem - and is going to cost me over $2,000 !

Any suggestions?


Thanks

 

This may sound silly, but have you checked the battery in your key fob ???
You may also wanna create a new thread as the CPS seems not to be the issue here !

Just my Dos Centavos

 

If you get that "my Crossfire just stops running" at an intersection or while on the road and you do get the P0335 OBD II code just go to Ebay and buy the BOSCH crank position sensor. Don't buy the generic one. It is too long and will make a clicking sound when you install it. The flywheel is hitting it and yes the crank position sensor can be filed down with untra fine file just a wee bit to stop the clicking. Be sure to blow it off real good before installing. Well I am off to change my plugs, wish me luck.

 

Took about an hour and a half to change all 12 plugs.

16mm deep socket works better then 5/8ths
Short extension and swivel ratchet and a T30 (to take of coils) is about all you need. Watch those shields and work slow to keep from cutting your wrists.

Concerning the crank position sensor, I purchased both the Bosch and generic.

What happened after I put the generic one on is I got a P0300 (OBD misfire code) on cyl 3 (P0303) and cyl 5 (P0305) when I used the manual shift (auto tranny) to shift the car and it started running rough. I put the Bosch crank position sensor back on, re-tested with manual shift on auto tranny and problem of running rough and codes cleared.

 

Just got this code (PO335) and need to buy a new sensor; what's the exact link or part # for the BOSCH crank position sensor?

Can I still drive my car or is it going to blow up? I know some cars have it setup in a way that the sensor is used while the engine is running, not just on start up.

Is this going to be fairly easy to replace? Where is it located? Anyone have instructions or tips?

Couldn't have come at a worse time, I've been saving all my money for the closing costs for my first house and now I get a check engine light..