Drove to work with no problem. When went out after work, remote key will not unlock car. Retrieved 2nd remote and it would not unlock car. This is the second time in less than 12 months that this has happend. The last time same situation, but used key to unlock car and alarm went off. Engine would not start and trunk and glove box all locked up. Had to have car towed on flat bed to dealer. They replace the key fobs and panic alarms on them. All worked well until today. Any suggestions. I have not opened the door yet so the alarm has not activated. Any suggestions? Ready to sale the car!

 

Sorry but what year is your car? Did they really replace the key fobs or just the batteries? It takes a couple of days to get NEW fobs. Have the dealer do a RF check on your key fobs or better still go to WalMart and by new batteries. Perhaps your car's battery is low and there is not enough power to activate the body control module. I'm leaning towards battery since car would not start after you manually opened the doors. The alarm system has a built in battery so it will work independently of the car's battery. Hope this helps.

 

Sorry, 2005. The dealer had the c ar 4 days. The battery in the car was never replaced. Last time and yesterday new batteries were tried in the remote and still the car would not unlock with the remote. On record at the dealer the "repair" was listed as batteries replaced in both remotes and panic buttons replaced. I am confused that one remote has only been use once since it was "repaired" and still it did not work yesterday. You can hold the lock & unlock down on the remote and get the LED red light to flash, which Chrysler tells you is the indicatior that the batteries are good. I have seen where you can unplugged the car battery and let it sit and this will reset the car. Any thoughts?

 

Is the battery in the alarm system (not the remotes) replaceable?

If so, where is it and how common is the battery? Thanks.

 

It is my understanding that the siren alarm battery can't be replaced. It is self charging and only activates if the car's power is lost. There is almost no drain on the battery except for when it goes off. If some one was to cut the wires to the alarm, the siren would still sound. I saw this when they replaced my siren. When the power was disconnected, the alarm went off.

Do a search for Panic Button. There is alot of info on the systems involved and the modules involved.

 

"alarm battery can't be replaced"

Thanks. Hope it has a long, long life because I tend to hold on to vehicles.

"goes off"

Hmmm ... ain't it already off? Do you mean "comes on"?

 

Great news....disconnecting the battery, even though the alarm is loud enough to wake the dead, does work. Just have to remember to keep a #10 size wrench with me if it happens again. For anyone else if this happens to you: 1. when remote keyless entry will NOT unlock car, replacing the batteries in the keyless entry is useless when both remotes do not work. 2. unlock door with the key (alarm will sound) 3. VERY IMPORTANT... DO NOT PUT KEY IN THE IGNITION. This will lock down the wheel, engine, glove box, trunk, etc and alarm still sounds 4. Open the engine hood and disconnect the engine battery cable. 5. I left disconnected for about 30 - 60 seconds 6. reconnect battery cable 7. use keyless entry remote to unlock the car. If this works (and mine did) the alarm will be deactivated and the car will start.
I called the dealership to inquire if the engine battery should be replaced and was this a possible cause... they could not say yes or no. I did not replace the engine battery when this occurred 10 months ago and have not had a problem until yesterday. Until the battery is replaced, I will carry the #10 wrench with me in the drivers door pocket.

 

A check should be made to see if any codes have been set. If the car seems OK now then the car battery would not seem to be a problem. An intermittent module problem may be indicated.
If the batteries in the fobs fail, opening the car with the key will not normally sound the alarm.

 

I had same symptoms, power off did not fix. My Security Module had failed..........took four days to get a new one (keyed to VIN and mileage??)

Some cars have had a loose/corroded connection on the cable powering that whole box of modules, leads to intermittent failures.

 

Darn glad I had read this thread, in advance! Just happened to me.

Remote wouldn't work (while parked at work). Was moving fast: unlocked the door and the ear-splitting alarm sounded. Forgot to NOT try the key in the ignition -- did, and wouldn't silence the alarm.

Got the 10mm wrench out of the console box (thanks for the warning to put one there!), popped the hood, and disconnected the negative cable of the battery. Alarm turned off, briefly, then reactivated (now sounding due to disconnected battery?).

Tried the key and remote again, but siren wouldn't turn off. Scratched my head for 10 or so seconds, then reattached the battery cable. Siren turned off!

Closed hood and started the car normally. When got home, the remote's unlock worked again, but haven't tried locking. Will check the remote and main batteries this evening.

Not a great way to start the weekend ...

 

Worked this morning ...

My cheapo battery checker (electrolyte float-type) showed all six cells very low charge in the main battery. Also was a little low on water (added after). Then charged the battery, but quickly said it was fully charged. Only gives 12.0 V with car off (should be about 13.6). So looks like I at least need a battery!

Darn ... was going to drive the XF next week. Now would like to find a replacement OEM (Varta?) battery, or make a long trip to Sam's Club for the cheapo Eveready as a temporary fix.

 

Battery suggestions here, https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/340783-post1.html

 

Same just happened to me Saturday morning. Fob didn't work got spare fob same deal, opened door with key and alarm wents nuts! tried to start but engine shut down. Disconnected battery and got the little surprise of the separate alarm battery!!!!! Anyway after reconnecting everything seemed to return to normal. Should I live in fear of repeat session? ( It's wife's car)..... PS new battery installed 2 months ago.

Any wisdom from the group would be greatly appreciated

Joe Lonardo

 

YES!!! Could be low voltage---check battery. I had the same problem and many here as well as MB World have too. mine was the SKREEM is going out, or that has been the way others have gone. If this was your first, others will come. Mine was 3 weeks later. Then nothing worked to get her back up. When I disconnected everything, I had 3 tries to start then nothing. Found on MB World that the ECM will only allow 30 tries and it will go dead FOREVER---it thinks that you are trying to steal the car and will KILL itself. I told the dealer what I found online---even showed them and told them that they had 21 MORE tries. I had them put it on the work order. They called me back and told me it was the key. I said NO. They said YES. I said the key does not KNOW that I disconnected the car battery---it can not be the key. I went down and talked to the service manager and did the above all over again. I said that I would pay the $428 for a new key, but that was all I was going to pay---they took the bet. Three days later, I called and it was not the key, and I was told a new ECM was ordered along with a SKREEM. It was the SKREEM all the time. They cooked the ECM with 22 more tries. Since I did my homework, I paid $428.

I hope the best for you, but I feel you will see it again---Good luck. Jimmy

 

Jimmy,

Where did you get the ECM and Skreem? can I put it in or is it only a dealer item ? Also how long ago was this and did it solve it for good?

Many thanks

Joe Lonardo

 

You will not need the ECM if you do not go pas the 30 tries. You will get 3 at a time, then you will need to disconnect everything and you will then get three more---do not do this 10 times. You can get a SKREEM on here at times and on MB WORLD. It is behind the cluster I believe.

Check battery first!!!! This car HATES low voltage. If the battery is under 3 years and checks out, then I would look at the SKREEM next.

Where---the dealer. Time---Two years ago and yes that was the problem---well, the SKREEM was, not the key as first stated. Good luck and let us know. Jimmy

 

Thanks alot Jimmy I'll try to lcate a Skreem and replace

Joe

 

Joe

I had a lot of modules replaced when I had problems with my panic button. This was done under warranty. I was at the dealer almost every day and saw the process and let me tell you the SKEEM was a total bear. May I suggest you get take a look at the manual -- paper, computer or online version before you get into this project. Perhaps some one has a reference for this on the forum. May I suggest a search for "panic button" and "service manual" in this forum. Hope this helps.

 

Help where is Skreem located on 2007 roadster and where can i a get new one?

Appreciate any help thanks

Joe

 

It is under the dash on the drivers side. It reads your VIN from the communications system. Not sure but think they are transferable from car to car. Check this out before you buy.