Hi guys

Current dilemma!! I have 2 Key Fobs, both worked years ago fine..
The unlock button on one of the fobs has been playing up for the past month and then finally gave in and wouldn't unlock, so i went to use my spare fob instead. Batteries dead!
Replaced the batteries, all ok and working, however this only seems to be lasting 4 to 5 days before stops working again. Change batteries, all works, another 5 days, same scenario.
I have to keep buying batteries and carrying them with me just in case they drain when out and about lol
Any idea what could be causing this at all?
This was the same for the original key fob and the new 'blank' case i have transferred the guts to (My old fobs were battered, marked, just bad condition from previous owner)


2nd key.. (unlock button wasnt working)... ordered a new blank key fob casing (to transfer the guts) as when i took the fob apart, the rubber that makes contact for the unlock switch had worn and basically didn't reach the button to action then unlock.
So, guts in new case.... doesn't work (maybe i have damaged the circuit board when removing?)

Talk about gutted!!

Do you think the battery drain could be a bad connection, broken solder at all?

Many Thanks in advance

Jason

 

Somewhere I read something about the panic button sticking, maybe that is it.

 

Hi mate, thank you for the reply.

Unfortunately its the 2 button fob (no panic button on them). Which makes me also wonder if the other fob I have isn't damaged but requires a different procedure to re-programme (sync) the 'lock/unlock' feature

Thanks again for the advice though, appreciated

 

Id suggest that you find an auto parts store advance auto that has programmable keys for sale. They have a sensor to test the fob to see if it is radiating a signal all the time or at all.

I suspect that your ON all the time depleting the battery in short order. With a meter and a few leads, check to see if there is a current drain

Wdy

Rob at Needswings can get you new fobs to get u going.

 

Thank you for the reply.
I will try locate a decent auto store who may have that stuff.
The ones anywhere around us aren't up to the standards the US has lol

Hopefully they will be able to check it and sort it.

Thanks for the advice mate!

 

Your best bet is to get a digital meter ( not expensive ) as Woody says and connect it in series with the batteries in millii-amp scale.
There should be NO drain without a button pushed, a small reading when one is pushed.

 

Thank you for the advice again.
I have had it checked and there is a constant drain on the fob yes
When a button is pressed, for the split second it jumps up to 3+ but its always at 1.2 with no pressing etc.

I have been advised the only option for that is to have a new fob, gutted!


As for the 2nd fob, i have been advised it just seems that it isn't synced to my alarm to unlock or lock (no orange flashes etc or unlocking when press buttons but will still start and run the car).
Unfortunately the common re-sync doesn't seem to work with my fob (2 button) so i will need to take it to Chrysler to have that one sorted as well

Is the common sync:

Press button twice (lock or unlock)
Within 30 seconds insert key in to barrel and turn to 'on/run' and start the engine
Wait 30 seconds then try pressing the buttons again and hope for success?


Thanks again guys, your advice paid off and helped identify it is the fob with a constant drain

 

I think if you don't get a flash from the led when pressing both buttons, that confirms an issue with the fob itself. Try multiple sets of batteries, and/or check the contacts inside it.
On min, if I press both buttons for about 6-7 seconds, the led will flash a couple times. (This swaps from 1 door to both door unlock as well)

 

Show us pictures of both sides of the circuit board, may be sweat corrosion, Woody

 

The instructions do not say start the engine, just turn to the ON position.
Another set of instructions say to point the fob at the car before doing your method.
CLICK