Hey guys having a bit of a head scratcher moment. Car sat for six months or so because I couldn't get it to start. Suspected bad battery... ended up being RCM connection. Got it started and running. I knew the gas was old so I put approximately 4 gallons in it with a Techron fuel treatment. Let it run for a few mins to get up to temperature, put it in drive and nothing happened. I realized it had cut off while I was listening to music. Weird but hadn't run for a while so I just shrugged it off. Turned the key and it was very hesitant to start but it did. About three to four seconds before it fired up. Then I noticed the maintenance required light had come on. The car drives fine around the yard.. no shuttering, no shaking, but it shuts off consistently during idle after 2-3 mins. Called my brother and he said it was probably bad gas so we should drain the tank, put new gas in, and it should burn the bad gas out. The light worries me though. I'm hoping I haven't clogged an injector or another component of the fuel system. The car is not registered at the moment so I can't drive it to somewhere a scan tool is available, and I want to make sure it's road worthy before I drop the $200-300 on insurance/tag. What do you suggest? Thanks! I just want to enjoy my Crossy again!!

 

Have you changed your CPS ( Crankshaft Positioning Sensor)? When it dies , how long before it will start?

 

yes my dad replaced it before he gave me the car. It starts up again the next time you turn the key, but it takes a several seconds for it to start. It seems like it is not getting fuel somewhere

 

Maybe the fuel filter is clogged ?

 

Sounds like a good place to start looking. Thank you sir

 

Could be the fuel pump relay in the relay control module.
Who did the resolder of the bad joints on the RCM?

 

they have not been resoldered yet. I took the plugs out and reattached them, then it started. I was planning on taking the RCM to school tomorrow to have it soldered, as we were on spring break last week. Thank you for another suggestion!

 

I'd start with RCM if it's not tripping a code. I had these issues until I swapped with a new Benz RCM.

Still need to send the old one to Tighed...

 

You certainly need to know the codes it is throwing (maint lamp lit), it'll give you a clue where to look. So far, get the RCM gone over, then get a basic decent OBD reader. If after you confirm the RCM (I recommend sending to tighted1) is OK then you'll need to know what code(s) set the maint lamp.

.

 

I will take the RCM tomorrow and get it done. Then drain the fuel and try to start again. If it's still acting funny I will get it scanned somehow! I appreciate everyone trying to help

 

Don't forget the fuel filter, replace it anyways, one less headache.

 

FYI
I can refurbish your RCM $30.
Bad joints resoldered, bad relays replaced AND the Me So Horny mod applied (horn works without the key).


LMK

 

I will definitely keep you in mind! I'm going to try and get it done at school for free but if that falls through you'll be hearing from me! Thanks a ton

 

Tried to start the car again last night.. started right up like it should. Let it idle and hit the gas every few seconds. Throttle was responsive at first but slowly started bogging down more and more each time I hit the gas pedal. Went ahead and backed into the garage, tried hitting gas one more time after it was in park and it died. After I came inside, I was doing some browsing on the forum and noticed that most people who had bad fuel pumps did not get a code. One in particular that had the same symptoms as mine was solved with a new MAF sensor although his mom's car didn't show a code like mine is (https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/troubleshooting-technical-modifications/76014-need-new-fuel-pump-please-help.html) ... I'm hoping that is the case on mine. I'm having the RCM soldered today at school and hopefully I can find a scan tool somewhere in this little town so I can give you guys a code. Check back in later!

 

I'm over in automotive right now. Instructor told me the RCM looks good but I'd have to take it to electronics if I wanted it done for peace of mind. He told me I should drain the gas, check for vacuum leaks, and then come back to him. To drain the gas, he said pull the inlet off of the pump and let if flow... I don't know how to get that clamp off though and apparently there is a special tool to get it back on. Wtf dude

 

Forget the gas it is fine, what is six months.
I'd normally hazard a guess that it is a fuel pressure or volume problem. The only thing wrong with that is that it sat and then suddenly had a problem.
So I remembered that years ago my exhaust was plugged with ice and I had a similar problem and here on the forum someone had dog food stored in his muffler by a rodent of some form and it caused the same problem, I also found a lot of seed stored in my engine cover that was not in use at the time. Back pressure caused the engine to stall.
So these are possibilities to look for.

 

Did not think of those pesky things causing problems like that. I'll have to check that out. I'll check air filter and exhaust when I get home. Is it possible that something like dust or an object got stuck in the air filter, sucked into the MAG sensor and disrupted it? That would explain the code right? Hopefully I'll be able to pinpoint the code later on.

 

I just got home from school and back to the car. I removed the gas cap, checked the seal on it, and it seemed fine... checked that because I saw a post earlier AND because the instructor at school told me it was a possible vacuum leak. Got in and it started just fine. Left the hood open and listened for hissing sounds, but I did not hear anything unusual. Also, the check engine light was no longer on. So I get excited, put the car in drive, and it dies as soon as I let the pedal go. Just tried to turn the ignition on three times so fuel pump would absolutely be primed, turns over and over but no crank. I'm going to check the air filter now.

 

Well that was weird... took the engine cover off, looked at both air filters. They looked brand new. A few spiderwebs and an unlucky ladybug but nothing that would affect performance. Turn the key and it starts fine, but the check engine light is on. I'm updating this with each step I take so just bear with the # of posts

 

Ran the code and it came back as P0335 crank position sensor. I know scan tools do not always pinpoint the problem, but in my case, does that mean it is absolutely the CPS?