Excellent step by step info ,just changed mine over yesterday . Took the guts out of my old one and reinstalled in brand new $20 e-bay fob.
Thanks Tom !

 

Used your info to swap over to new Ebay fob and it worked great, thank you...

 

I'm glad to see it helped!

 

Has anyone gotten a fob without a spot for the little red lens? I thought I'd save a few bucks and order fobs for the SLK320, but I found that the circuit board doesn't sit high enough for the buttons to actually be pressed when you push the buttons on the case. The red lens missing is the only real difference.. but it looks the same as the others in this thread. It also doesn't snap together.. have to super glue if you want the two pieces to stay together.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Buttons-Flip-Remote-Key-Fob-Case-Shell-for-Mercedes-Benz-SLK-Class-98-04-/390972902664?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ASLK320&hash=item5b07cd0d08&vxp=mtr

 

Made in China??

 

Just did one from Amazon without the red window.. PITA .. Left a review - warning.. LOL..

 

Thanks for the excellent write up and photographs. It was very helpful!

I purchased the http://www.ebay.com/itm/130635875647?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. The quality is not quite up to OEM, but for $20 delivered it is very good. I ordered a spare to have just in case.

Mine was glued around the full perimeter and took some coaxing, but also had the white retainer which made the transponder chip swap very easy.

I reused the OEM spring as it was higher quality.

One tip for those having trouble with the key staying locked closed: trim the flashing on the retain slots to firm up the button seating. A little trim with a sharp knife or razor blade and it will lock up tight.

IMG_6289sm.jpg

IMG_6291sm.jpg

Keyfobtrim.jpg

 

Okay I need help and didn't want to start a new thread. I have tried to research, but I could not find enough info to solve my problem. I got my car with no batteries in the fob that starts my car. I have a spare key that also has no batteries. Now here's where it gets fun. I replaced the batteries and attempted the fob reset (press twice, turn to ON/RUN) twice. Nothing happened. My dad, former owner, replaced the ignition himself and never got it reprogrammed by a dealer (it's honestly ridiculous for what they quoted him). So now I have (what looks brand new) a key fob taped to the old ignition which is hanging off of the dash within an inch of the new ignition, so the car will drive and function without the security system locking me out. I really need to lock my hatch because I am deathly afraid of my beloved JL Audio subs being stolen while I'm sleeping (no closed in garage at my house). Please help me. I will try anything you guys suggest. Thank you.

 

How about a picture of the set up first?

Then a rough wiring diagram of new/old.

If you've got what I think you do, then just transfer the transponder chip to the new key, put the old transponder ring back on the new ignition switch.

Then try to program your key.

If all that fails, take the transponder chip out of the old key. Tape just that on the old transponder ring. Then use the old key to lock the car via the drivers door mechanical lock.

Here are a couple places for info on the ignition switch:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ru-2006-a.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...mobilizer.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ion-start.html

 

What exactly did your dad do?
One new fob that works the security system via the ignition halo and two old ones that do not?
Did your father take the security chip from one of the old fobs and put it in the new fob purchased as an empty shell?
Do the three keys on the fobs operate the ignition?
Are the old fobs original to the car or purchased on the internet?
We need the whole story.

 

I do believe we have already done what you suggested. I have part of a key that manually unlocks and locks the doors, but I am still unable to lock hatch. I am going to contact him and try to clear it up before I post an un-informed reply that irritates you older guys. Thank you for the fast response

 

If I'm on the right track with what has been done.. The old ignition probably locked up.. so a "new" ignition (possibly used with keys supplied) was installed and the old fob attached to the transponder ring. "That" fob is probably still going to work for lock unlock feature.. the other two will never work. Since you pretty much have to destroy an OEM to get it opened up.. buy a blank case from Ebay-about 9 bucks .. put the electronics from taped fob - "INCLUDING" transponder chip into the new fob blank.. open up "working" metal key fob and insert the actual metal key into the "new fob blank".. this should give you a fully functioning fob. Just test locking unlocking feature with taped fob to confirm..


As a footnote.. if the "taped fob" doesn't have batteries and or made need reset .. you can push that fobs button twice and using other fob to turn ignition on .. should sync it back up.

 

180, I hate to say this because I feel like ill **** you off, but I honestly don't know what he has done with the keys so far. He is at work so I can't get in touch with him. I posted the jerry rig that holds the old ignition/key fob close enough to the new ignition. Also posted pic of keys, the one circled in green is my primary key, next to it circled in yellow is the sliver of key I use to manually lock it. Circled in red is the spare key I keep on my Honda key ring. Saw a post that suggested watching the red light on the fob to see if it is working, but I have tried a reset twice already and don't want to get locked out of my car. Unlikely yes, but my luck with this car hasn't been great so far. Still love her nonetheless, but I'm hoping you guys can help me iron this lock issue out. Also posted pic that compared the jerry rig fob to the primary fob. Primary looks very dirty while the jerry rig one looks fairly clean. That is weird though, because it seems like the old one would be worn down more.

 

Bet there is no key on taped up fob.. even though you didn't acknowledge my post.. guessing you read it and dismissed it. So back to 180 and I'll go fix the flat on the tractor.

 

I did acknowledge it! I don't think he has taped anything from another remote so that will be what I try next. Thanks mrmiata

 

I think you might have another problem as well. When I use the key to manually lock the doors, the trunk locks as well. If yours doesn't you may have an issue with the central lock mechanism in the trunk floor.

 

This really is beyond the scope of this thread. You should start a new thread.

Anyway...

Let me get a few things straight:
You start the car with the "yellow" key, and because the "green" key is close enough to the ignition, this allows the car to run?
Does the yellow key also manually unlock the driver's door?

If yes to both of those, then you can pop the metal key flange out of the green key fob and put the yellow metal key into the old green key fob. That will at least get rid of one problem.

Regardless of all of that, you cannot reprogram the security system in the ignition to accept the old keys. Also, you won't be able to program the wireless entry system to recognize the wireless lock/unlock signals from the fobs that match the new ignition. When you get a new key from Chrysler, it can be programmed to match the car's security system. But once a key is used in a car, it will not be accepted by another car/ignition.

Keep in mind that there are three separate security systems at work here.
1) the ignition security - involves the metal ring around where the key goes in the ignition and a small chip (pictured in my early posts in this thread)
2) the wireless door lock/unlock and alarm/panic system and the transmitter in the fob
3) the physical locks and metal keys

Each of these three systems needs to have its matching partner or it won't work. The key fob contains 3 of these partners - 1 for each set. You can swap them out between fobs, just be careful to keep them straight as to which is which. In a perfect world, you swap all three parts at once - thus keeping a working set together. Unfortunately, when your dad replaced the ignition cylinder, he broke the set of three that stay together.

If I had to guess, he replaced the ignition cylinder because it was locking the steering wheel and making it stiff or impossible to turn the key in the ignition. This is a very common problem. Your best bet - if you still have the old ignition cylinder would be to mod it so that the steering wheel locking pin is shaved off (search other threads for sticky ignition fix) and put the old ignition back in. Then all of your old keys will work properly.

In the case that you no longer have the old ignition, then you are properly screwed. You'll likely have to pay the dealer to reprogram it for you. Though, in actuality what they probably have to do is get you a new security module and set of keys from Mercedes. These things are designed not to be programmable as an anti-theft measure.

 

I just wanted to know what was done initially before I gave a stab at a solution.

I think the following is how the system works in principal, probably all wrong but let me know where I am misinformed.

I think you need a chip that sends a signal of a VIN code to the SKREEM module via the halo. The VIN numbers stored in the fob chip and the SKREEM module must match. The halo excites the chip to send the VIN signal. This exchange of information takes place when the key is in the ignition and turned to at least the ON position. If the physical key cannot turn the lock tumblers then no interaction can take place.

The door lock synchronization is done in the ON position, meaning the key can turn the lock tumblers and as long as the fobs chip VIN matches the SKREEM VIN, the SKREEM will learn the fob code from the code transmitted by the fob.

The board in the fob is a transmitter only, the chip sends a signal when it is excited by the signal from the halo but the system will only function properly if the VIN codes of the SKREEM and fob chip match.

The chip is a passive component and needs external stimulation. batteries in the fob only power the door OPEN/CLOSE transmissions and are not needed to start the car.

The door OPEN/CLOSE signals use a rolling code technology, meaning the signal is not consistent.

 

The skreem module is pre programmed with multiple codes to work with it. When you get a new fob it is the next code in their available code list. Any "programming" is merely syncing the fob.

 

Then yes, I may have a problem in the trunk. Read something about water getting in there and im starting to think that's it because I have other electrical problems.