Pay them. Seriously, just pay them. If you are going to take a Mercedes to a Chyrsler dealer, you MUST expect **** like this.



Sorry, but I am sick of this - WHY oh WHY do people take cars to DEALERS?

What the hell for? It is a $136 part that ANY ONE CAN PLUG IN, no tools needed, you don't even need GLOVES.

Posts like this one (chamaelo's) should be SHOUTED FROM THE HOUSETOPS. They are charging you around $300 for the part and $460 for their own training time and screwing around because they DO NOT KNOW **** about this car. (I am REALLY being kind here, my first reaction is that they are just crooked, but in reality, YOU must pay for their guy's time while he is reading thru the service manual, trying to figure out how the car works, and while he calls other techs and dealers for advice, and then calls Chyrsler trying to find SOMEONE who can help him with this odd-*** car you brought him that he knows NOTHING about. It is reasonable, to some extent, that they charge you for all of this.)

Any Mercedes shop (not dealer) would very likely have known before you opened your mouth what was wrong -and charged you less than half that.

 

OMG!!! They are so lying to you and screwing you all while smiling about it. I bought mine from Mercedes-Benz and paid 225 for it, it took me all of 5 minutes to put it in and have had zero problems since and Best of all, it's genuine Mercedes-Benz. Now you do what you think is best for you because that's exactly what I did.

 

Found your email. Replied!

 

Let me guess, spam folder!

 

Hi guys,

I have a question here and need some help.

I have the P0410 error code and checked the following:

Air pump - ok,
Vacuum lines - ok and there is vacuum
Check valves seem to be clean no carbon build up
Cleaned the air pump connector as there was some corrosion and greased it with dielectric grease.
RCM module is clean and no signs of bad soldering points, all relays are closing easily and are not sticking.

So I get this error mostly when it is wet outside and sometimes it will show after the car is already warmed up and while I'm driving. That being said I assume it has nothing to do with the functionality of the EGR but it might be a bad contact or a faulty signal is being sent.

Since it's happening mostly (but not always) when it's wet/rainy I assume there is a short somewhere.

Any thought on this?

Thanks!

 

Check the relay contacts on the air pump relay. Most likely they are burnt. You can clean them and get more use out of it but the relay will need to be replaced.

 

I looked at all the relays and they all look like new.
The relay would only be energized when the pump is needed which is not the case since the engine is already warm and ran for 20 minutes or more. Or am I wrong?

It happens when I accelerate harder or take a corner a little more spirited.

Could it be that the o2 connection is faulty?

 

I looked at all the relays and they all look like new.
The relay would only be energized when the pump is needed which is not the case since the engine is already warm and ran for 20 minutes or more. Or am I wrong?

It happens when I accelerate harder or take a corner a little more spirited.

Could it be that the o2 connection is faulty?

 

Hi, I soldered the connections to the pump connector and it's working fine now.
At first the soldering looked good but then I pullled the RCM out again and looked at it with a magnifier and indeed the connections were not properly soldered.

I think it's ok now.

Thanks!

 

I thought I had success with the little blue vacuum thingy as previously suggested, but in time the problem re-appeared. So while my car was a lawn ornament, (bearing problems) I pulled the RCM and used a jewelers loop magnifier to inspect all the high current connections to the relays. I removed the solder from the suspect ones, (nearly all of them) with solder wick, and resoldered. This time I'll give it a couple of weeks before I declare success but I think Im good now. PS pulling the RCM only takes minutes. Anyone can do it. I have my GPS set to re-route away from all Chrysler dealers.

 

ROFLMAO.!

 

Found my air pump relay in the RCM had fried to the point where it wouldn't make contact after filing it clean (unless I bent the copper arm and made manual contact with that!).

If you wish to give your own RCM relay replacement a try (I'm forced by IL refusing to renew my plates without an emissions pass), this eBay seller has individual relays for sale at $3.99 + $2 shipping:
American Zettler AZ970E-1A-12D Mercedes Benz or Chrysler Crossfire relay | eBay
for our beloved American Zettler AZ970E-1A-12D.
All the other parts houses had big minimum orders - hope this helps someone.

 

I am new to the forum, so please pardon my ignorance. On this photo, could someone tell me which is the air injector in question and where are the electrical and air line connections that need to be checked. Mine was working fine until I accidentally spilled some oil on my serpentine belt, causing the belt to jump off. Now the check engine light comes on with the P0410 code. I am thinking either some oil got on the electrical connection or the belt hit the air line, but cannot tell where on this photo to locate those. I have a Mercedes SLK320 WHICH i am told is the same engine.

 

Dead centre of the picture is a screw with red wires attached, these are the ground wires, the clamp with the screw holds the air pump. The air lines come from the pump.

 

Am I correct in assuming that the way to expose the pump is to take off the cover off the top of the engine as though you were going to check/replace the air filters?
Thank you in advance.
Chuck

 

I see the three ground wires attached to a section of what appears to be a aluminum or
magnesium section.
1. Is the air pump made up of the aluminum piece plus the black sections to the left of
right of the aluminum piece?
2. Are the air lines you mentioned the light green ones coming out of the top left side of
the black body?
3. Do you access this by popping off the top of the engine cover as though you were
going to check the air filters?
4. You mentioned the ground connections, where would the positive connections for the
pump be located.

I am looking for problem areas where a oil spill or the serpentine belt coming off and hitting something may cause.

Thanks for your help.

 

Manisusmc - Did using the diaelectric grease on the ground connections work for you?
Could you tell me where the check valve is located, in relation to the three ground wires screwed to the front of the pump.

 

Mine was intermittent on and off. All I had to do was clean the plug and contact points on the smog pump. Right in front of the motor on top. There was a green powdery corrosion on both parts. The pump can't send or recieve proper electrical signals. A little piece of sandpaper clean the little nubs, then roll up a really small piece to clean inside of plug. Sprayed with a little wd-40 rust inhibitor, and let sit over night. Plugged in next morning, light was off never came back on. I'm begining to think crossfire electrical parts don't like moist environments. Hope this little looked over connection helps people.

 

Folks, I have a beautiful 2005 SRT6 coupe that runs like a champ with 86k miles. Possibly the smoothest n quickest car I have ever owned, and I have owned many. I also have been fighting the P0410 issue. Here is what I have done:
1) I started getting the P0410 code. RCM rebuilt by tighed1, new relays and horny mod. After a I put in the rebuilt RCM, the 40A fuse blew as soon as I turned on the car from a cold start.
2) Replaced the 40A fuse on the RCM and with a voltmeter measured 14V or so on the connector going to the secondary air pump. So I figure my air pump needs replacement.
3) Replaced the air pump. Emission Smog Air Pump For Mercedes-Benz SLK32 AMG V6 3.2L S63 CL63 AMG V8 6.3L | eBay. K-Parts. Emission Smog Air Pump For Mercedes-Benz SLK32 AMG V6 3.2L S63 CL63 AMG V8 6.3L. Fit like a glove.
4) Now when I start the car cold I hear the air pump turn on for the first 30 seconds or so. I figure I fixed it, but wrong. After a day of driving, the P0410 comes back. I clear codes. Still comes back after a few days.
5) I replaced the blue air check valve from AutohausAB, (0021408460, Vacuum Check Valve). I clear codes. The air flow from the blue check valve seems fine. I follow the air line to the top of the blower and it also seems clear (not clogged).
6) After a few days of driving, I get the P0410.

What could it be? The I took picture if my next suspect, below. It is a small canister from where the the blue check valve gets the air flow.

 

I would have said to check the ground wire but as you have had the pump off it should be OK, check the ground terminal anyway, it can't do any harm.
Check any plugs and sockets in the line though for corrosion on pins etc.