Dude ur the best u don't know how much money u just saved me. Well actuyallly u saved me 1.5 hours of laber that I was going to pay. But I work at a kwik kar but I only do light mecanic work. Ohh and if any one els wants or needs this. Part I can get it whole sale from mercedes benz. Which is only
Dude
Dude ur the best u don't know how much money u saved me. I work at a kwik kar but I only do light mechanic work.
Hhh
D

 

hey guys, this is a great thread. Right now my car is in the driveway with the key at half-turn and the negative battery terminal disconnected :P I'm not risking pulling that thing out yet. I just wanted to know, in the set of pictures that document the process, the picture with the arrow drawn that says cut here, am I supposed to chop that whole extra portion off? Or can I just cut out the square tab and pull the pin and spring out without cutting off the 1" tube chunk? My issue is that the key won't turn past 0. Right now I have it past 0, but that was after 45 minutes and a nasty blister on my thumb, along with a lot of swearing...

 

opeth13 - I did not cut off the end. I also had the key in the ignition when I started and it had taken an hour of trying to get it turned so I wasnt about to take it out until I had to. I left the key in for a few days as we had a bit of a heat wave which seemed to worsen the problem and I had to wait to get the new steering lock assy from MB (I didn't use it in the end). You dont want to leave it on the street with the key in!
On the right side of the steering column there is a little cut out with a panel in it - this is the area your pin is in - this panel slides towards you inside the outer steering column and is spring loaded. I didn't figure it out until I had the lower dash removed - much easier to see the locking pin. You may be able to hook it and pull back to see the pin easier without the lower dash removed. I removed the lower dash and pushed the pin in and twisted the ignition down and to the right to get the pin in the sleeve so it couldnt pop out. I then took the key out and RFID ring off and was able to put the key back in and turn it to pull the tumblers. I pulled the steering lock assy and removed the access plate (see BoeroBoy's picture) then took out the pin and spring inside (it isnt the steering lock pin you can see from the outside) and put the plate back on. It has been over two weeks - no cutting, no problems. I still have the new assy I bought but the old one seems fine with out the pin and spring. Steering still locks but ignition turns with absolutely no hesitation. I was lucky and did not have to drill the locking pin out and no cutting on my steering lock assy.Hope this helps a bit. Ron

 

Thanks for the reply. So I'm getting the pins mixed up. From what I understood, there's the steering locking pin that some people have issues with and they have to end up filing it down and removing steering lockability permanently. This is located on the outside on the actual steering column. Then there's your scenario where you had to remove the spring and pin from inside the ignition assembly that comes off of the car.

I can actually lock my steering wheel and then unlock it with the key by turning it in the 0 position, but that's all I can do, just lock and unlock the steering wheel. The key won't turn any further. I actually got it to turn one last time yesterday and I haven't taken the key out since until I repair it this weekend. I'm going to try your method first (removing the internal pin and spring). I am going to have the new MB part with me just in case I have to swith out the old parts or I screw something up. Thanks again.

 

I found it easier with the new assy to guide me.

 

ok, looking back at the pic I see the pin sticking out of the end of the shaft which locks the steering wheel. It's all making much more sense. I think it will all make sense once I have the part in my hand. The only Mercedez dealership here in Vegas has the part in stock (they have 2 actually) and they want $191 for it. I called a Mercedez dealership back where I used to live in California and they said it's $149, but it was a special order item. Oh well, I'm going to buy it on Friday for $191 and then do the removal, modify, reinstall on Sat. If my old part works after I put everything back together, then I'm going to return the new part back to the dealer, which they said I could do as long as I didn't install the part.

 

Hey guys (and gals), quick question. I've been leaving my key in the ignition until I do the repair tomorrow because I got it to turn past position 0 and I don't want to risk pulling the key back out. However, my car wouldn't crank yesterday night and today in the morning, and it turned out I needed to clean off the negative battery terminal because it's covered in battery acid goop. So I brushed it off and threw some dielectric grease on it for good measure, and she starts up right away now. I had always had long cranking issues with this car and I'm wondering if it may have been the corroded terminal causing issues. Could battery issues cause the sticky ignition problem as well? Or are they totally unrelated?

 

Don't think you will find any relationship between the battery and thesticky ignition switch - no one has ever mentioned anything and I had no battery issues. Battery may help it start better - sorry but I think your still gonna have to fix it!

 

lol, that's what I thought. I'm going to try to record the whole process with my Canon a480 and then edit it into a nice little walkthrough vid.

 

ok, it's done, I did it tonight. I bought the part from the dealership, $206 after tax. So I'm out $206 but my car works. Thanks for the posts and the writeups. I am giong to document some of my findings in this thread that will make the job easier for those who are going to be attempting this. I figured out how to get the black plastic thingy (the one the thin wired connector plugs into) off without breaking anything or cutting anything. I have my old part still, unmolested and unmodified. If anyone wants to buy it off me to modify it rather than pay full price for a new one, PM me for a price.

 

I followed these instructions and was successfully able to remove the spring and pin. It works great. Do it!

Also, when modifying the assembly, be careful of that small hatch cover. I lost it as it shot off to some far corner of the garage.

 

This fix is better than buying new parts since it cannot ever happen again and it didn't cost a penney. It is a lot of work though but worth it as long as you can live with a non locking steering column. The anti-theft system is very good in these cars so I am not worried about a locking steering column. And there is absolutely no way the problem is related to the battery.

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

My key is stuck inposition 0 so I was not able to remove the tumblers. I am down to the part about pushingin the locking button on the housing, however I cannot get the little silver button to push in so I can twist and remove the housing from the steering column. Any suggestions? Is the key/tumblers not being removing causing this ?.. Not matter what I do I cannot get the button to push in.

Thanks
Joe

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

Will I be able to remove the Key tumblers once I have the pin drilled out so I can put it the new housing ? Also my XF is a 2004, Can I use the same Mercedes part # A2024600904 for that year XF

 

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Link to post with picture tutorial of Sticky Ignition Fix
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963

 

I'm following those instructions, but I cannot get my ignition to turn from position "0"

How do I get it out now?

 

You'll need to take out the dash and drill out the pin as in part 14. It's a pretty awkward position to drill but it can be done. Several of us have done it. Took me about 3 drill bits too.

Picture from step 14 linked below the pin itself is just to the left of the key cylinder. It prevents the ignition from twisting out.
http://chevelle.cvpo.com/Resized%20C...te/Xfire15.jpg

 

Once I broke a couple bits, I decided to go and buy a bit from hardware store that would chew through the metal and it took less than 5 minutes to drill out the pin. Just a hint to save time and your bits.