Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
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Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I am glad mine is an 08, I keep seeing and hearing about this fix in regards to prior year XF's. My only concern if the 08's having been assembled with 'leftover' parts here and there... Oh well, iffin it starts feeling iffy, I'll jump on (and into) it quickly.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have just completed my second "Sticky Ign. Key Fix." For both of them I didn't take the lock cylinder out. Leaving it in can make things easier since you don't have to wrestle with the vice grips in a confined space or maybe not get it back together properly. There is risk however, the risk means you will be pounding on the cover while the key FOB is in the assembly risking a slip and break for the FOB. You have to decide on your own the risk you may be willing to take.
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder tumblers.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out of the car put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1, Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and align to your dash cutout then tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Test turn the key to all positions, it should operate as normal.
N) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover. The vise grips pictured are only tight enough to hold the housing to take this picture. If you are going to use a vice or vice-grips to hold the housing while pounding on the cover do not clamp down so hard as to distort or crack the assembly.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder tumblers.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out of the car put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1, Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and align to your dash cutout then tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Test turn the key to all positions, it should operate as normal.
N) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover. The vise grips pictured are only tight enough to hold the housing to take this picture. If you are going to use a vice or vice-grips to hold the housing while pounding on the cover do not clamp down so hard as to distort or crack the assembly.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
Last edited by KDW4Him; 07-06-2017 at 08:41 PM.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
And be nice to the next owner or any mechanics who might see the car after the mod. This is the inside of the driver side dash fuse panel, the first piece you have to take off to do the mod.
A reference to Crossfireforum dot com would be nice too!
A reference to Crossfireforum dot com would be nice too!
Last edited by KDW4Him; 04-18-2015 at 11:25 PM.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Ok, do i need to grind or cut anything if i can get the pin and spring out? If i do have to grind it out, does it matter to have a hole in the assembly. The pdf is a bit short on pictures and detail
Bad news, good news, bad news, and great news
Bad news: no matter what I did after I took the steering wheel lock/iginition switch out, I could NOT get it to turn to position 1 to get the tumblers out. I tried EVERYTHING - it would not turn out of position '0' so I could not put it back into the car in a non-working state and I could not remove the tumblers to put into a new housing.
Good news: Brumos had the housing in stock for $166 after tax.
Bad news:The housing did not come with tumblers and spade for the key fob, so I HAVE TO get the tumblers out of the old housing
Good news: The housing is light weight cast aluminum so my handy regular hack-saw easily cut the frame around the tumblers (imagine cutting the neck off a plastic bottle). I was then able to put the tumblers into the new housing and reinstall everything.
Works like Butter now!!!
Solution - about 2 hours of real labor minus all my screwing around and $166 for an instock part at the Mercedes dealership. Do NOT let a Chrysler dealer charge you $300+ for a Mercedes part.
Moral of the story - if your key starts 'locking' and you have the jiggle the wheel or try multiple times to turn it - get started on fixing it - you don't know where it will strand you. The solution is not expensive so don't get raped by the dealerships. Do NOT let them convince you it's the tumblers. (see note below). Take your time and you'll have your baby back to new and you'll have a new respect for automotive ignition systems.
Note below: George at Brumos - you're a nice guy but you didn't have a clue what you were talking about even after I explained everything to you. The people in this forum do know what they are talking about and you shouldn't disregard their advice just because most are DIY'rs.
PM me if you have this problem and need help - I'm available 16x7 to help anyone with an Xfire or an SLK with this problem. If you're stranded, I'll do whatever I can to get you fixed asap!
Bad news: no matter what I did after I took the steering wheel lock/iginition switch out, I could NOT get it to turn to position 1 to get the tumblers out. I tried EVERYTHING - it would not turn out of position '0' so I could not put it back into the car in a non-working state and I could not remove the tumblers to put into a new housing.
Good news: Brumos had the housing in stock for $166 after tax.
Bad news:The housing did not come with tumblers and spade for the key fob, so I HAVE TO get the tumblers out of the old housing
Good news: The housing is light weight cast aluminum so my handy regular hack-saw easily cut the frame around the tumblers (imagine cutting the neck off a plastic bottle). I was then able to put the tumblers into the new housing and reinstall everything.
Works like Butter now!!!
Solution - about 2 hours of real labor minus all my screwing around and $166 for an instock part at the Mercedes dealership. Do NOT let a Chrysler dealer charge you $300+ for a Mercedes part.
Moral of the story - if your key starts 'locking' and you have the jiggle the wheel or try multiple times to turn it - get started on fixing it - you don't know where it will strand you. The solution is not expensive so don't get raped by the dealerships. Do NOT let them convince you it's the tumblers. (see note below). Take your time and you'll have your baby back to new and you'll have a new respect for automotive ignition systems.
Note below: George at Brumos - you're a nice guy but you didn't have a clue what you were talking about even after I explained everything to you. The people in this forum do know what they are talking about and you shouldn't disregard their advice just because most are DIY'rs.
PM me if you have this problem and need help - I'm available 16x7 to help anyone with an Xfire or an SLK with this problem. If you're stranded, I'll do whatever I can to get you fixed asap!
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Im confused about when and if you need to grind with a dremal? If you make it this far, are you good to go to reinstall as is? Cheers
I have just completed my second "Sticky Ign. Key Fix." For both of them I didn't take the lock cylinder out. Leaving it in can make things easier since you don't have to wrestle with the vice grips in a confined space or maybe not get it back together properly however the risk means you will be pounding on the cover while the key FOB is in the assembly risking a slip and break for the FOB. You have do decide on your own the risk you may be willing to take.
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1 Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1 Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
If you do have a stuck ignition then in my procedure at step D) "Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"" where I say to push the silver locking pin in is where you cannot push it in because the assembly is stuck.
Does that help?
These specific steps I posted allow you to skip the removal of the key cylinder from the assembly if you are fine with pounding on the cover with the key FOB hanging off the ign. assembly. I have done two of them this way so far.
Last edited by KDW4Him; 04-17-2015 at 08:21 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Age: 69
Posts: 5,842
Received 374 Likes
on
324 Posts
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have just completed my second "Sticky Ign. Key Fix." For both of them I didn't take the lock cylinder out. Leaving it in can make things easier since you don't have to wrestle with the vice grips in a confined space or maybe not get it back together properly however the risk means you will be pounding on the cover while the key FOB is in the assembly risking a slip and break for the FOB. You have do decide on your own the risk you may be willing to take.
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1 Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.
A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1 Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.
I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.
Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover.
Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.
The parts removed.........
I have one pressing question and two minor points to ask/highlight. The important one is 'How thick is the cast metal at the place your clamping at with the vise-grips'? If too much pressure is applied with the vise-grips, can it crush/crack the housing? Now on to the minor highlights, When you document the MOD (great job BTW) please be sure the next owner UNDERSTANDS what your talking about. A reference to a more detailed write-up in say, the owners manual, or a separate sheet of paper, with detail exactly what a 'Sticky Key MOD' is, could enhance that line on that fuse panel card (especially since it may be years until someone actually opens that cover). The final highlight, is also a sort of a question, How The He11 Is That Dual Vise-Grips/Assembly Standing Up Like That? It seems to defy gravity being the way they look stacked in that picture angle. Great job on your post BTW!
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I have one pressing question and two minor points to ask/highlight. The important one is 'How thick is the cast metal at the place your clamping at with the vise-grips'? If too much pressure is applied with the vise-grips, can it crush/crack the housing? Now on to the minor highlights, When you document the MOD (great job BTW) please be sure the next owner UNDERSTANDS what your talking about. A reference to a more detailed write-up in say, the owners manual, or a separate sheet of paper, with detail exactly what a 'Sticky Key MOD' is, could enhance that line on that fuse panel card (especially since it may be years until someone actually opens that cover). The final highlight, is also a sort of a question, How The He11 Is That Dual Vise-Grips/Assembly Standing Up Like That? It seems to defy gravity being the way they look stacked in that picture angle. Great job on your post BTW! To me the housing is fairly robust and I have seen posts discussing placing it in a vise so the tension on the vise-grips should be no worse than what one would do in a vise. Now that is me somewhat mechanically inclined. Someone who never used a vice before might just crank away on the housing.
Yes, adding Crossfireforum dot com is a good idea for identifying the original document location, besides if I were selling I would tell any potential buyer all about it anyway. I did when I sold the roadster but yet to see them here or on Facebook.
Last edited by KDW4Him; 04-18-2015 at 11:29 PM.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I've spent several hours grinding the first pin as I could not turn my key whatsoever. Once I grind it down enough, I should be able to turn my key to position 1? Correct? I'm getting frustrated as I still cannot turn my key to finish the "sticky key mod" directions. I also bumped two plastic panels from my steering column and with them came a spring (right above the steering wheel lever for adjusting its position). Are these important? Don't think I can get those back in as its a bad angle. Thank you for any info, trying to get my new x fire in driving order.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I've spent several hours grinding the first pin as I could not turn my key whatsoever. Once I grind it down enough, I should be able to turn my key to position 1? Correct? I'm getting frustrated as I still cannot turn my key to finish the "sticky key mod" directions. I also bumped two plastic panels from my steering column and with them came a spring (right above the steering wheel lever for adjusting its position). Are these important? Don't think I can get those back in as its a bad angle. Thank you for any info, trying to get my new x fire in driving order.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I've spent several hours grinding the first pin as I could not turn my key whatsoever. Once I grind it down enough, I should be able to turn my key to position 1? Correct? I'm getting frustrated as I still cannot turn my key to finish the "sticky key mod" directions. I also bumped two plastic panels from my steering column and with them came a spring (right above the steering wheel lever for adjusting its position). Are these important? Don't think I can get those back in as its a bad angle. Thank you for any info, trying to get my new x fire in driving order.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Just got done putting everything back together. Key is turning and am 99.9% sure i put all three cables back correctly. Unfortunetly when i went to test the battery before putting the dash back together, my neg terminal is popping. I disconnected the pos then connected the neg then the pos again and still the same. Please help
i have one pressing question and two minor points to ask/highlight. The important one is 'how thick is the cast metal at the place your clamping at with the vise-grips'? If too much pressure is applied with the vise-grips, can it crush/crack the housing? Now on to the minor highlights, when you document the mod (great job btw) please be sure the next owner understands what your talking about. A reference to a more detailed write-up in say, the owners manual, or a separate sheet of paper, with detail exactly what a 'sticky key mod' is, could enhance that line on that fuse panel card (especially since it may be years until someone actually opens that cover). The final highlight, is also a sort of a question, how the he11 is that dual vise-grips/assembly standing up like that? It seems to defy gravity being the way they look stacked in that picture angle. Great job on your post btw!
i have one pressing question and two minor points to ask/highlight. The important one is 'how thick is the cast metal at the place your clamping at with the vise-grips'? If too much pressure is applied with the vise-grips, can it crush/crack the housing? Now on to the minor highlights, when you document the mod (great job btw) please be sure the next owner understands what your talking about. A reference to a more detailed write-up in say, the owners manual, or a separate sheet of paper, with detail exactly what a 'sticky key mod' is, could enhance that line on that fuse panel card (especially since it may be years until someone actually opens that cover). The final highlight, is also a sort of a question, how the he11 is that dual vise-grips/assembly standing up like that? It seems to defy gravity being the way they look stacked in that picture angle. Great job on your post btw!
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Just got done putting everything back together. Key is turning and am 99.9% sure i put all three cables back correctly. Unfortunetly when i went to test the battery before putting the dash back together, my neg terminal is popping. I disconnected the pos then connected the neg then the pos again and still the same. Please help
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Just got done putting everything back together. Key is turning and am 99.9% sure i put all three cables back correctly. Unfortunetly when i went to test the battery before putting the dash back together, my neg terminal is popping. I disconnected the pos then connected the neg then the pos again and still the same. Please help
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Age: 69
Posts: 5,842
Received 374 Likes
on
324 Posts
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Just got done putting everything back together. Key is turning and am 99.9% sure i put all three cables back correctly. Unfortunetly when i went to test the battery before putting the dash back together, my neg terminal is popping. I disconnected the pos then connected the neg then the pos again and still the same. Please help
Also, the car has a number of circuits that run constantly. It might just be those circuits powering up.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
17.) When reinserting the key and black cylinder the flat on the black cylinder needs to line up with the white nylon portion of the assembly. Then you can push it in and rotate it clockwise to lock it in place.
18.) Also when reinstalling the transponder ring the part where the wire comes out needs to line up with the flat spot on the black cylinder for it to pop into place.
19.) Don't forget to replace the one screw you removed from the top panel (I did!) before replacing the lower panels.
20.) The front upper edge of the lower panel snaps into place, then lift the back edge (toward the front of the car) and secure one screw to hold it in place. Then just button up the rest!
Again I want to thank Crossbow 39 for his help. I think it has accurately been determined in this forum that this assembly is the problem, not just the tumblers, or lubrication. The only problem I have now is the BAS ESP light is on. Apparently when the battery is disconnected it sets the light. If you refer to page 135 of your manual it tells you how to reset ( re synchronize it)
18.) Also when reinstalling the transponder ring the part where the wire comes out needs to line up with the flat spot on the black cylinder for it to pop into place.
19.) Don't forget to replace the one screw you removed from the top panel (I did!) before replacing the lower panels.
20.) The front upper edge of the lower panel snaps into place, then lift the back edge (toward the front of the car) and secure one screw to hold it in place. Then just button up the rest!
Again I want to thank Crossbow 39 for his help. I think it has accurately been determined in this forum that this assembly is the problem, not just the tumblers, or lubrication. The only problem I have now is the BAS ESP light is on. Apparently when the battery is disconnected it sets the light. If you refer to page 135 of your manual it tells you how to reset ( re synchronize it)
Nice write -up. Only problem is I can't open the pictures. I am using an Apple computer. Safari can't open them and when I use Google Chrome, it won't open either. Any Ideas?
Bill T.
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Bill - you need to look for the .PDF version of the write-up. It can be found in this thread. Hope this helps.
Senior Member
Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006