Lowered Seats for more headroom

BlueStorm · #1 (**permalink**)

Has anyone here actually lowered thier oem seats? I remeber a member saying he did it but no threads on this topic..

HowardJ · #2 (**permalink**)

I am also very interested..

BlueStorm · #3 (**permalink**)

here's the guy http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/members/waldig.html

pizzaguy · #4 (**permalink**)

I was thinking about that before I bought my car. But problem soved: Bought a Roadster - I will be lowering the TOP instead!

BlueStorm · #5 (**permalink**)

waldig says I have to cut off the rear post, then cut out the foam in the floor. from his pictures it looks like he dropped 4" maybe 5 " lower now. this is perfect for me!

waldig · #6 (**permalink**)

WOAH WOAH there is no 4" or 5" maybe 1.5" in the rear. The front mounts are stock and the power motor in the bottom LIMIT the drop.

I would love to remove the seat, add sliders and a good supporting bucket seat. Have FOUND NO info from others on this and the seat people have not gotten me any good data on the sizes. Id rather learn rather than be the first this time.

Woody

bogieman · #7 (**permalink**)

Quote:

Originally Posted by waldig

I would love to remove the seat, add sliders and a good supporting bucket seat. Have FOUND NO info from others on this and the seat people have not gotten me any good data on the sizes. Id rather learn rather than be the first this time.

Woody

I am with ya brother. The original leather seats look so good, I hate to risk screwing them up-but, it would be nice to be comfortable and have some head room

BlueStorm · #8 (**permalink**)

OK guys, I finished dropping the seat last night, wasn't too bad actually if you take your time and spread it out over a couple days in your comfy garage.

about 2-3" increase in head room and it feels great!!!!!!!

tools required are:
1. star socket (4) seat bolts.
2. adjustable wrench for seat belt bolt to seat
3. very sharp razor blade, to remove foam under carpet.
4. either spotweld drill or a 1/4" drill with center punch, to pop the spot welds
5. Air powered 3" cut off wheel to cut out a couple stich welds.

this is what you need to pull out the metal seat blocks from the floor pan. don't worry it's easy Japanesy! just take your time and drink plenty of Guinness drafts before attempting...

Thanks Waldig!

don't for get to purchase two grade 8 bolts to clamp the seat back to the floor. waldig suggested double nutting for safety.

Couv · #9 (**permalink**)

I just finished lowering the drivers seat by removing the rear suport blocks. Please note that this job is not as easy as I was lead to beleive. Some lessons that I learned along the way
1: ensure that you have the proper tools (a small rotary cutter is a must)
2: I would suggest that you just cut the brackets off, flush with the floor pan instead of trying to remove the spot welds. The floor pan is thin and you will not want to make holes into the floor for water to enter.
3: the carpet is going to be too short at the door panel once the foam is cut away and the seat is re-installed. I plan to atempt to correct this problem by riveting the carpet to the side panel in hopes that it will pull from other areas.

You might note that a few things were left out of the steps given.
1. Door seal must be removed
2. kick panel at feet removed
3. carpet suspended while the rear suport blocks are removed. This is the most difficult part in my book.
Seems like to gained about 1.5" of head room. Love the change!
I would be interested to hear if other have atempted the task.