Some or most solder for electronics is lead free these days. In Europe I think it is banned already.

 

We have a loaner RCM. PM me your address and I'll send you a loaner RCM. Once received you send me your RCM. I repair it and hold it as a loaner for the next person in need.
If you want "your" RCM back it will involve another swap at your expense (postage).
Let me know!
DJ

 

DJ will take care of you/it, it's been 14 months since my speedy repair and it runs like a new used one.

 

I've been out of the solder business for quite a while, but there was a lot of hell being raised about lead even then. I know one of the issues we had with researching a lead free alternative was the higher melt temps of lead free alloys. At the time, we were leaning more towards figuring out a good conductive adhesive.

I still have a bunch of 60/40 I use on electronics, and pretty much everything else, so I haven't had to buy any in a very long time.

 

You have a hard time finding something as good as the leaded solders.
We older geezers were weaned on leaded products, paint, gasoline etc. It did not harm us, now people suffer from all sorts of medical diagnoses etc that we did not.

 

Lead still wouldn't do you much harm as an adult, unless you end up with massive quantities. It's most damaging you young children. It seems their biggest source was eating lead paint chips. My contention has always been, make your kid a sandwich for lunch and he probably won't try to eat your walls or window sill.

 

Has anyone ever took a deep down look at the schematic and try to figure out why the RCM failure causes the engine not to crank? I’ve been looking at the schematics, and assuming the only problem connector is the one shown in the how to (Connector A), I can’t see how this would cause the engine not to crank. Here are what the four pins do on connector A:

Pin 1: Air Pump Relay Control
Pin 2: Fuel Injectors, MAF, Camshaft Position Sensor
Pin 3: Upstream Oxygen Sensors, Air Pump Switchover Solenoid, EGR Solenoid, Short Runner Valve Solenoid
Pin 4: Air Pump Output

Obviously, if either pin 2 or 3 fails, which are the pins shown in earlier pictures, that will stall the engine due to the loss of sensors, injectors, etc. What I don't understand is how this prevents the engine from cranking. It seems like pin 4 in connector B would cause a no crank situation, as that would cut power to all the relays in the RCM.

If this has been covered before, please let me know. I had this happen to me recently and would just like to know a little bit more about how the RCM actually works. Without this thread I probably wouldn't have known what was going on when the car died on me.


Thanks,
-Dan-

 

I think that the bad connection(s) in the RCM do not allow power to get to any of the systems down stream of the engine control relay and with the absence of the proper signals to the power train control module the system is dead to prevent damage to the engine.

 

If I recall correctly power is present but the circuit is not complete because, due to the bad connections you have lost the path to GROUND.

 

This forum is amazing with quality information needed by XF fans. This RCM plus the sticky key plus so much other stuff I must say I am very thankful to those who provide and photograph this stuff. What a Great Group !

 

Couldn't agree more with that last post. My thanks to DJ for the tutorial. I finally got around to pulling the RCM and did the resolder and the "me so horny" mod. I must admit, I was a bit nervous. With my mitts for hands, this was tedious but I got er done! I owe you more than just one beer DJ, I hope I get the pleasure one day to meet up at a GTG and buy you a few. Thanks again! Bob

 

Maybe at the Colorado GTG!? You going?

Finding more and more reasons to not, not go. Was concerned cuz of the restaurant and divorce thingy but free beer and a color change (grey for blue SRTs) is just about enough reason to go!

 

We'll be there, Don't let a couple of problems side track you from the get together!

 

@tighed1

Donel - Thank you, thank you, thank you. My problem is sorted.

 

Thanks Tighed1 for coaching us thru the fix for this problem with great pics and instructions. After being towed from a no start and then loosing power driving one time too many I followed thru with the fix and all is well now for problem free cruising! I surprised some of my colleagues when I told them that I fix it myself. I thank my mechanic Dad for insisting girls have some mechanical knowledge and the confidence to tackle the task!


Lori-Ann

 

Over the past few weeks the Check engine light has been coming on and off so I finally brought it up to the dealership to have it checked out. The guy just called me back and said the relay control box needed to be replaced and it was going to be $604. When he says relay control box I assume he is meaning the module, is this soldering solution one that would fix my problem?

 

What is the code that has been set? Without the code an accurate reply is not possible.
The solder fix basically fixes random (and sometimes permanent) stalling. From what you have said this does not seem to be the problem. You may have air pump relay problems caused by burnt contacts, but with no code given so that is just a guess.
You should have got the code(s) and posted them before going to the stealership.

 

Alright I just picked the car up and it threw code P410 secondary air injection relay circuit signal error. Said I need to replace relay box.

 

This could be your problem.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post536712

Does anyone know why the contacts burn? I thought that contacts burn when there is a poor ground, I may be wrong however. This is not in my field of expertise.

 

180, I always thought if the contacts are not getting enough voltage to completely "make" or "break", they would get a little arcing and sparking and eventually burn. A bad ground or bad solder joint could do that. But I am certainly not an expert in that.

Tom G.