When I've had the clicking it has always been the battery. Check Mrmiata possible solutions :-)

About the RCM: My RCM solders weren't either as bad as the post pictures, but nevertheless after the new solders they look much better. And not only the current problem was gone after that, I'm sure I've also skipped future other problems because I had like 5 of 6 weak solders in the whole board. So as you've already unmounted don't doubt to review them all and fix the weaks.

In your pic I see at least one that might need better solder: the second from right bottom corner.

Good luck!

 

"Click, click, click"
Your RCM isn't sick!


You should still resolder though.

 

There was A LOT of corrosion around the negative battery terminal (neglect on my part!)

I'm taking some baking soda and a toothbrush to it today. The corrosion was so bad that the bolt actually broke off in the clamp... talk about a B*TCH! Had to hammer it loose, now I have to figure out how to get the broken bolt out of the clamp. I am starting to think the corrosion may be my problem.

Since I have the RCM out I'm going to go ahead and resolder as all have suggested. Once I drop everything back into place (and find a replacement bolt for the terminal) I'll try again. If no go.. my local auto parts store is selling an Interstate MTP H6 for $130. Looks like that's my next option.

Come to think of it, I'm having issues with my alarm going off randomly. Had to pull the fuse a month ago. Hoping this is all tied together and a new battery will do the trick.

Other weird symptom: It was pouring down rain the other day and the faulty headlight lamp went on in the dash. Checked it out and all my lights were working, so I just assumed it was due to a sensor getting wet.

I installed a new stereo in last weekend, so I'm hoping I didn't cause a battery drain. The more I think of it, the more I'm led to believe it's the battery. Praying I can get the car up and running tonight!!

 

Nice mnemonic rule! :-D

 

Some battery maint. was one of the first things I did with mine.. corrosion actually down to the battery tray. Removed it wire brushed, primed and two finish coats. Then the neg terminal. Sounds like yours. Used a nail and socket to drive the bolt out (disconnected from fender). Wire brush cleaned the terminals and re assembled. A little axle grease at the base of the battery terminals, reconnected, and coated with light layer of grease all around. 8 months later still looks good.
But it sounds like you've found the issue.. dunno you'd have to forgo the battery expense right now, but I'd probably put it on the list of soon. They don't like being brought back from the dead..

 

I sacked up and bought a new battery, actually a step down from the Interstate H6 (Powervolt) . It was a tad too big but I readjusted some wires and it dropped right in.

Also picked up a new ground/neg terminal and mounted it. Cleaned the pos off with a toothbrush.

Connected it up, dropped the RCM down (didn't bother soldering as my mechanic warned against it unless last resort). Turned the key and not even half a crank it started right up. Sweet angel music to my ears

Drinking a mojito now celebrating. What a huge relief off my chest, for only $85 total. Thank you all for the help. As for the RCM, I'll keep an eye on it but for now it seems to be good to go.

Thank you all.

 

Your most welcome. Life has enough stress without cars adding to it.. LOL

 

I've had both of these issues the past few days. Absolute nightmare!

A bit of background on my situation, I'm from Belfast and about 1 month ago (17th June) I left my dads Chrysler Crossfire into an auto electrics specialists and all I needed was a live wire put into the cigarette ligher so that my BlackVue HD recorder would work in parking mode (as it required power from the battery)

That cost £50, probably took them about 10 minutes max. Anyway they didn't do it right! They connected the wrong wires and whenever the car was parked and locked the entire dashboard and radio remained lit up. So I phoned up the BlackVue HD company I placed the order with for some advice and they told me to immediately get it corrected as it could cause damage to the ECU system of the Chrysler Crossfire.

So the next morning my dad tries to start his car, click click click, the car won't start. Has to get a taxi to work and by the time I get to the car a few hours later the battery is 100% completely dead. So I pay someone to call out to jump start the car and bring it back to the auto electrics place - Greenaways Auto Electrics in Belfast to correct the problem and have it wired in properly.

So a couple of weeks later and no problems up until Friday, my dad was in Belfast and returned to his car and the car wouldn't start, dashboard is lit up so it's not a problem with the battery but absolutely nothing from the ignition although the cars fan does come on and is humming pretty loudly. He calls the RAC to tow the car home and 1 hour later he tries to start the car but it works this time! So he attempts to drive it home, it drives fine for about 10 miles and the car just dies all of a sudden, exact symptoms of the two posters I've quoted above and obviously the title of this thread that I thank you SO much for tighed1!!

So any advice? Could this whole issue have been caused by a live wire being wired into the cigarette ligher wrong or merely a coincidence? The car is a 2004 Chrysler Crossfire and has about 30,000 miles on it. Could this have caused an electrical fault?

Today I managed to get another auto electrics specialist called out to my dads home, he was convinced the problem was the battery after doing tests on all the electrics and mechanics etc and everything was fine so replaced the battery as that was tested and the charge was low plus the battery was the original mercedes battery which is 8 years old, the car started and I took the car out for a spin. Everything was going fine until 30 minutes later, I parked the car to go to the shop, came back 10 minutes later and the same issue, nothing again! The car wouldn't start! Just getting this loud hum from fan behind the radiator in the car.

So now the car has been towed to the mechanics for more testing, got a call from him and funnily enough the car started for him first time so he's going to connect the car up to all the electrical monitoring equipment and drive it until it dies again tomorrow so at least the problem/fault should register with his equipment.

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated!

 

1. Maybe the european cars are different, but my cigarette lighter is only powered in the run position.
2. All the symptoms sure point to the RCM issue.

 

The european cars are the same, I probably did not explain myself very well.

As standard the cigarette lighter only powered in the run position, but I needed the cigarette lighter to work when the car was parked and turned off so that my BlackVue HD recorder could work in it's "parking mode"

That's why I got a auto electrician to provide a live feed to the cigarette lighter, so that when the car was parked somewhere the BlackVue HD recorder could record things in "parking mode" and run via the car battery.

Hope that clears things up

It definitely does sound like a RCM issue from everything I have read in this thread and I'll definitely forward this thread to the auto electrician who will be trying to find the problem with the car tomorrow.

 

Hmm.. would have been too hard to run a live wire from the battery (fused) then through the grommet under the battery tray.. straight in behind the glove box and over to the lighter?

 

The cigarette lighter has been connected to a live feed in the car so that the HD recorder can work via the cigarette lighter in parking mode, to my knowledge the cigarette lighter is not connected directly to the battery.

Unless my understanding of this entire process is wrong which is entirely possible

 

Personally as finicky as this car is about voltages, Unless it had been proven as an acceptable tap source, the battery would have been first choice.

 

There does seem to be a lot of problems directly related to a bad battery, but PaulNI says he changed his to a new battery. Sounds like RCM to me, a quick and easy fix. Best of luck!

 

Guys I have a question, my dad purchased his 2004 Chrysler Crossfire second hand. I was reading a different thread about this problem on another website and someone had mentioned that they got the car fixed because it was still under warranty.

So I did a bit of reading on the 2004 Chrysler Crossfire warranty and apparently it's covered up to 36,000 miles. My dads car has less than that on his car, or does that warranty only last for a certain amount of years as upposed to a milage milestone aka the 36,000 miles?

I was reading from this source and another I cannot find atm

2004 Chrysler Crossfire Warranty | Used

Brief update - I sent my auto electrician this thread and he has implemented the tutorial by tighed1 and he's tested the car all of yesterday and the fault is not happening anymore. Hopefully that's it sorted!

I'm going to collect the car and take it for a long drive myself and test it and fingers crossed there won't be anymore issues!

 

Hey tighed1, I have an extra RCM now. Would it be helpful for you to have another one as a loaner? I did a very bad soldering job on it which apparently wasn't enough to fix the check engine light issue, but I ended up with a brand new one from the dealership.

Let me know if you want it and where to send it to

 

The advise tighed1 gave was spot on! The solution to the "mystery no start" was outstanding. I would be more than happy to buy tighed1 good cold beer. I am absolutely sure I saved hundreds of dollars from the far north dealership! More important to me, would have been the time lost from not being able to drive my Roadster!!! I'm happy to be on the road again, thanks tighed1, you won that bet!

 

Thank you! I took the RCM into my local tv repair shop and he performed the surgery. Before he started he magnified the area and you could see the cracks. The dealer in town told me the RCM retailed for $3,000. Once again thank you for restoring my wife's ride.

 

Okay I've never seen this on our forum.. but was cruising the MB forum and ran across this.. "ours" is on the passenger side but other than that looks to be the same..


Might help a few timid owners!

 

Just performed the "fix" myself, and just came back from a Test Drive... The Cruise Control suddenly won't work... it worked fine yesterday... and nothing else changed...

The BAS-ESP light came on when I reconnected the battery and started it, but turning the wheels to the right and back to the left "reset" that... Is there anything related to this fix that can make the cruise control not work?

GREAT fix!!! Hoping I repaired it correctly, as the car's left me stranded a couple of times now for an hour or so.. LOL

Thanks guys in advance...

WELL.. in True Crossfire fashion... The cruise control today.............. works just fine... so.. dunno what caused it... dunno what fixed it... but it works now... Go Figure...