No codes that's the bad part mechanic even drive the car with code reader hooked up .

 

Had replaced still same issue!!!

 

I replaced my crankshaft position sensor and the car quit on me with the new sensor. Yanked it out, cleaned the connector, added a bit of dielectric grease, reinstalled the original CPS and 2 years later the part that was giving trouble is working perfectly. My belief is lots of these CPS problems are actually connector problems. I'd revisit the CPS. Clean the connectors, plug and unplug them a few times and reinstall. It's free and given my success, worth a try.

Les

 

Dii

I see you've posted about your problem on several different threads and have given bits of information about your problem in each different post. I appreciate your dedication to get a recall about your problem, but if you want to get your car fixed, that is probably not the way to go. This forum has more knowledge on it about your car than any service department that will work on your car - I suggest you use it rather than rally for a recall. In your posts, I see you have focused your attention on the CPS and the wire harness, but I don't see in any of your posts that you have resoldered your RCM. Piggy backing onto a thread with 600+ posts and saying "I've done everything in this thread" doesn't do much good. If you want specific help with your car, and you can't find the answer by searching, I suggest starting your own thread and listing every detail about your problem that you can think of - even if you have already mentioned it in previous posts - list it again.

Just my 2 cents ...

RL

 

That is an excellent point, these are simple parts and what is there to go wrong with them? Al_xfire mentioned the simplicity of them way back.

Excellent idea, this could be a money saver and maybe it should be a regular maintenance procedure.

 

Have also seen post stating that the 3rd party CPS (non-Bosch) have caused problems. Find an authentic Bosch CPS and see if that works!

Also agree with Les. Connector can be cause for attention.

 

Has any one got a check list of how to diagnose a no crank or start fault. I have checked/resolderd RCM ,starter/battery, fuses, grounds, live feeds/ignition feeds, no fault codes! I am now running out of options. Any help/surgestions much appreciated . Thanks

 

I have bad crankshaft position sensor connector. My car would die while driving, vibrations caused the wires to touch. You can tell if this is the problem by moving the wires to the connector. If the connector is bad it will cause the car to die. I placed a piece of rubber between the 2 wires where they enter the connector, and this solved the problem.Good luck.

 

Just did the RCM fix on mine. About a month ago, driving down the freeway, and my '05 NA Limited Roadster (78k miles) died for a 1/2 second at most - CEL popped on and right off. It happened so quickly I barely had time to look at the dash before it was back on and running. Took it home, plugged in the computer - no codes in the computer, all modules reporting.

Flash forward 3-4 weeks - same exact thing happened. Split second loss of power, then running fine.

Today - driving home - she totally died on the freeway at about 35mph (traffic). Eased over to the shoulder, and tried to restart. Nada. All the lights came on, all the electrical worked fine, no beeping, no crazy gauges or dash warnings. Tried to restart a half dozen times with no luck. Got out, checked under the hood (nada), got in, tried to restart again - nada. Called USAA to request road side assistance, and as I was talking to the rep decided to try again (maybe 3-4 minutes after the last time trying, 5-6 minutes total?) she fired right up.

Got home, spent 10 minutes researching it on the forum, pulled the RCM, saw that the solder traces were in BAD shape (part of the black plastic box was even a little melted). Fired up the soldering iron, patched the joints, and she's running good as new - even seems to idle slightly smoother, which might be totally a placebo effect, or might be due to the fuel pump getting better voltage / less resistance from the crap solder joints. Only time will tell if this is the fix, but based on reviews from everyone else who experienced this in the past - I think it is!

Thanks, CFF!
-Kevin

 

Ok I'm back again
Fustrated as ever
Took car back to shop acourse with same issues, they told me they rewired the crankshaft sensor wiring OK~ drove car for 1wk stalled on Highway while driving 70mph
think this time I'm giving up had a very big scare semi approach in me at very fast speed luckily I was able to get over and off the road THIS TIME.

 

Dear tighed1


Is this service still available ?


John in Houston

 

Still.
Procedure is:

• Mail me your RCM. I'll inspect it, re-solder the bad points and perform the My So Horny Mod.

• I will then try your RCM in one of my 3, I mean 2 Crossfires (Corky has one) to verify operation.

• Then I'll mail it back to you Priority Mail (2-3 day envelope). Usually I get it back in the mail the day after receiving it.

Your cost $15. (5 to mail back, 5 for repair, 5 for a beer)
Be generous ($20) and I'll throw in one of these in the color of your choice. STICKER

Best to use my Hotmail address as my Forum mailbox is full. Email address is in my profile.

NOTE TO ALL - When you send the RCM to me PLEASE leave the plastic cover on. Helps prevent damage to the relays during shipping. Also. Leave the fuses installed.

 

Many thanks Tighed1! The dealership was not smart enough to figure it out and only thanks to you I was able to trace the problem to the RCM. I did the re-solder and good for two weeks now. I recently bought an oscilloscope and discovered a fuel injector is stuck closed. Ahhh, the car is 10 years old but with only 23K on it. I guess I should have driven it more. Thanks again for the write-up on the Mystery No Start. Cheers. -Norm

 

Did this - and - it worked (The check engine light went away). However, when I turned the car on the BAS/ESP light has now come on (it hadn't been on before)....

 

Center the steering wheel and then turn right until it is full right and then left to full left and then center it again. Should go off.

 

Turn the car onthen center the wheel and then turn right and then full left and then center the wheel again. The light should go off.

 

If you disconnect the battery this will happen. I do not bother with turning the steering wheel left to right, I just back out my drive and it gets fixed.
Turning the wheels lock to lock just puts black rubber marks on the driveway.

 

Thanks for the quick advice. That did it.

Happy to have a check-engine light free Crossfire.

Next up... figure out where I can take it to get the batteries in the tire TPS sensors replaced.

 

The whole sensor is replaced as the batteries are not replaceable by design. $$$$$$$$$$

 

I have read this thread twice and checked RCM soldered joints .still engine will not turn over,battery OK, starter works if pulse module(when pink wire is run to earth) all fuses checked,still no crank? Any advice/thoughts thanks in hope of any replys