Any codes, is battery new, are battery cables in good shape, getting fuel and etc.?

 

How did they figure PCM ? What about screem ?

 

What a brilliant Forum,had this problem last week when filling up with petrol (yes I am in the UK) got stranded on the pumps for half an hour then restarted and ran ok for a week.left the car outside for 2 days went to it and no start so resoldered the RCM and instant start.
Tighed1 you are a clever man and thank you for your generosity in sharing this info with us.
Any more problems with my car and this forum will be the first port of call as there is a great deal of knowledge freely shared and good sense spoken by lots of guys,Onehundred80,Mrmiata to name just two.
Thanks to all,
Regards,Tom.

 

I am hoping they are not guessing (Dealer) because they, service advisor and electronics guy, had said they had so many problems with them before. Not sure about the screem. I will ask them about it.

 

I am surprised that after spending $2,200 at the dealer on a shifter mechanism and then listening to him tell you that Mercedes never set up a parts network for Chrysler, which caused a shortage of parts that you still go near a dealer. The parts used are Mercedes = no problem on most parts, the only problem is the big Chrysler markup on the Mercedes price.

I think you had better give us a detailed description of your problem and any codes set in the car.

 

So I have about 50 miles on my SRT-6 now since it came off a truck exactly one week ago. It sat for a few days and when I went to start it today it fired and died instantly. Hmmm, fired and died again instantly. Third time nothing but lights on the cluster, the door chime and the whir of the fuel pump I think. And so it begins... It's an 05' with only 12, 800 miles so needless to say the engine area looks brand f_c_ing new and BAM, this rears it's ugly head. I'm heading right into the RCM and I hope that's all it is. The forum and it's members are awesome as many have stated, thanks in advance and wish me luck.

 

first disconnect the battery for a couple minutes.. reconnect and try again.

 

It's enough to make you SKREEM, sounds like the classic SKREEM problem, do as Mr M. says and hope.
Do you have one or more keys?
If two try the other one and hope it is the chip inside the fob that is the problem.

 

Nice tutorial from the Pelican Parts site showing the steps to do the RCM repair w/ pictures!

Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes SLK 230 - K40 Overload Protection Relay Repair

 

Not to far off from tighed1's tutorial. Page 1 of this thread.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

Ahh, I will definitely try that and also I'll try my other key fob as well. Fingers crossed.

 

So I discovered today that along with the above symptoms now the Key Fobs which used to flash the head/tail lights now do nothing at all. So we have all the lights on the cluster and the chime but nothing else. Going to start with the battery disconnect and then go on to the following of which I have ordered and will be replacing: RCM as well as sending my original to Tighe for the repair and then it's on to the SKREEM, the Crank Positioner and finally to diagnose the Central Locking Pump in the trunk to address the door locks. This car is a ***** and after just 2 weeks and only 50 miles of fun things better turn around or she'll be finding a new home. This **** is ridiculous. The thing that worries me the most is the programming of the SKREEM, I'm trying to avoid getting a shop involved, ugh.

 

If your lucky.. disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes .. then turn the key to the on position to fully discharge system.. reconnect battery and possibly do the fob sync. might get the car back on track.

 

Will do , thanks again

 

Crossfire Lives! Disconnected the negative and waited several minutes then reconnected, synced the FOB's and BAM! Thanks for the tip "Mrmiata", I have an RCM on the way and then I'm sending the original in for the repair and horn mod.

 

Good deal! Seems like on occasion the electronics get confused on which way is up.. and a "reboot" is needed.

 

This may or may not have solved the actual problem. I hope so that's for sure. Too many times these cranky cars look like they have been cured just to repeat the failure days or weeks later.

Just to clarify the fob syncing mentioned, for others who may come upon this thread later.

I would say the fob syncing was not needed as they seem to lose their abilities to unlock the doors only after having the batteries go flat or after the batteries have been out for too long.

The chip does not need syncing, the SKREEM will recognize it with or without the batteries being present.

 

Just to clarify this was my chain of events: car arrives 2 weeks ago and runs fine, no door locks but FOB's flash the tail lights, that's it. No panic alarm either.

Replaced batteries in both FOB's and still no door locks. Here's where it gets foggy. Not sure if I drove the car prior to coming out and attempting a start in which it fired twice before dying completely, dash lights only but now FOB's do nothing with the tail lights. That's when I went for the battery disconnect.

Still no door locks but I'm moving on to the Central Locking Pump on that one. Naturally the auto dome light function does not work either given the locking situation.

 

This could be a critical question, do the locks open and close when you use the switch on the center dash?

 

Thats what leads me to the pump, they do not work from the dash switch as well as either FOB