anyone know where I can purchase an A/C Control for my '06?

 

Here's one for $75
04 05 06 07 08 Crossfire Temperature Control 347339 | eBay

 

Lord Almighty! The local dealership has had my Crossfire for 2 weeks and still can't figure out the problem because they can't get the car to randomly refuse to start. I have had it happen to me at least 4 times! I wonder why they don't check the forum. I found this post in fewer than 5 minutes! If I knew how to solder, I could easily do this myself. As it is, I will take it to a private mechanic with this suggestion.

Also in the world of Crossfire solder problems: my front driver turn signal stopped working a couple of years ago. A different local dealer wanted to charge me over $1200 and replace the entire headlight assembly. I took somewhere else to get my brakes done and for $750 they not only did the breaks, but determined there was a simple soldering fix for the turn signal and they had it working in no time. It's worked perfectly since then.

Thanks to tighed1 for such an informative and easy to understand post about this fix!

 

Took my car to someone who could check the soldering on the RCM, They fixed it for $79 just like Tighed1 posted on the instructions. The cracks were horrible and they took the pic just to show me before the repair. I drove home with no problem whatsoever. Thanks again, Tighed1!!!

 

$79 !!!!! Highway robbery !!!!!!!!

 

Agreed! Tighed1 would have done it (with a MOD) including shipping for $25.00 (if I remember correctly).


.

 

I believe you are correct. However, I would have had to remove it myself, pack it up and pay to ship it, and then wait until I got it back. Then I would have to reinstall it myself and hope I could correctly attached all the wires. I've been waiting forever to get this problem fixed. I'm so happy to have it done today and to be able to drive my crossfire! And $79 is way better than the 110 the dealership charged for diagnostics and they couldn't even find what was wrong! I'm glad they didn't charge me hundreds of dollars and say I had to replace the entire RCM. I guess it was my lucky day they were so ignorant. :-)

 

How you doing? im having a problem with code 410 the air pump relay will the rcm you send me fix that? if so I would like to make that happen ASAP.

 

Got yer email. Replying...

 

tighed1

I am having the typical "Mystery No Start" symptoms. I have pulled the RCM and resoldered every joint I could see. My degree is in Electronics Technology so I know I'm pretty good with a soldering iron. I also used an ohm meter to confirm each set of contacts on the 5 relays are operating properly. Additionally, I took a 9 volt battery and jumper leads to manually activate the coil on each relay and they are all working properly, although 1 relay had a different sound when I activated it compared to the others. I visually inspected each set of contacts with a magnifying glass and they all look fine. I verified the resistance of the resistors on the board and even performed a diode check on the diode that is there. EVERYTHING seems to be in working order, yet I still get the same symptoms. It mysteriously decided to start on one attempt so I let it idle for about 20 minutes. The BAS/ESP lights never went off and the brake wear indicator light was illuminated as well. I hooked my ODBII code reader and returned no codes at all. I killed the car and it has not started since. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

 

Is the car turning over but not starting or not even engaging the starter?

 

Not even engaging starter. Everything lights up, a few relays under the hood can be heard, but nothing. Brand new battery. All connections checked. Battery ground to chassis checked. Jumpered brake light switch and confirmed voltage on both sides.

 

The BAS/ESP light could be from battery removal and the steering position sensor need to be re-calibrated. Easy left right center type thing with the steering wheel. (see posts on it)

OBDII only does the generic mandated emissions stuff not the other mfr. specific stuff like BAS/ESP. For those you will need the DRBIII tool, Crossfire module and the Crossfire adaptor cable.

 

Purchased my '05 with 18,000 miles a month ago and it occasionally will either 1.not turn over or 2. turn over and not start. Both problems seem to repair themselves quickly and have never left me stranded.

I enjoyed reading your tutorial and do own a soldering iron but I have difficulty seeing a difference in the before and after photos.

Are you still performing the repairs?

 

Yup. Still.
Email me
tighed1 @ Hotmail . com

 

Update on my no-start. This goes back to a trip to Mammoth Cave Park late May in monsoon rains, and a homesteading rat once I got home.


Rat is gone.
Pulled and resoldered connections following instructions here.
Replaced battery.
No start, no change. Noise and whirring but nothing from the starter.
Began wiring inspection, and walked away to avoid unapproved chainsaw application.


Today, mild weather for us.


I have found absolutely no damaged wires yet.
12v or so at starter on heavy wire from battery via alternator.
0v at starter on violet wire to solenoid from ignition via something.
Clutch safety switch tested with meter, consistently good.
Approximately 12v to clutch safety switch with key in start position.


Wiring diagrams show one wire from clutch safety switch to starter solenoid through the Pulse Module. I can find zero info in the FSM regarding that module, other than in wiring diagrams. Also one wire from clutch safety switch to the Powertrain Control Module. Will try to trace these.
Power is getting past clutch pedal but is lost before the starter solenoid.


Any ideas most welcome. I will try a search here for the Pulse Module.



EDIT - I did search and found info from ala_xfire on the pulse module. THANK YOU! pin B (from clutch safety switch) has 12v in start position; pin F has 0v in start position.


This car has gone from 100% to dead, so it's not intermittent. Are there other variables or is this certainly the problem? Can I safely jump B to F to test for start and run, or does that risk other damage?

Thanks,
Michael

 

I just took mine out today and checked it. It didn't look bad with normal inspection. My cell phone camera took decent pictures and it didn't look that great after all. Last picture is after re-soldering.

 

Mine looked better than your "before" pics, but not better than your "after."


Your phone pics are great! I took some under a dissecting microscope that weren't as good. Great scope, poor camera, and maybe some weak skills.


I think I'm past the RCM, but may reconsider if I have to face that or a PCM at $2K or more. Still troubleshooting, but running out of things to try at my level.


Did you resolder yours as a preventive measure, or were you having trouble? If trouble, did remaking the connections cure it?


Michael, black 05 Limited Roadster

 

What is part whirring?
Initially I thought you had Crankshaft Position Sensor failure.

 

I think I have a fan running when I hit on or start, and I think I remember seeing a cooling fan in one of the wiring diagrams. I know I have fire to the pulse module at "start" but no from from pulse module to the starter solenoid.


This is a manual trans, in case that helps sorting ideas.


I guess pulling it with the tractor is out.


Thanks for any input.


Michael