Hi Folks,

Where can you buy a new RCM?

Is there a Mercedes equivalent?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks to Black03AR RCM MB Part No: A1705450305 - same part on the R170 SLK - the earlier ones that our cars are based on. Purchase at any MB dealer.

 

thank you very much.

 

[quote=solnyc2]thank you very much.[/quote]
There is a thread that is attempting to build up a list of the Chrysler parts and the equivalent Mercedes numbers.
The RCM is on it.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post427253

 

This worked for me! Had issues intermittently but it hasn't happened since. Nice easy fix due to your great photos and guidance. I appreciate it!

 

I don't think all PCB connections are done by machine. The boards are certainly done on a wave solder machine, but the component connections, as far as I know, are still very often done by hand.

In this case though, with the bad connections always in the same spot, I could see that being an issue with an automated process. If people were involved, it would likely be more than one person adding those particular components, so you'd see more variety in the look of the finished solder joints.

 

Could it be something to do with the material being soldered, when I re-soldered my one I got the distinct feeling that the material being soldered was not copper, it felt like steel and steel is notorious for soldering.

 

It could, but in this case, there is just such an obvious lack of material there, even on the copper parts of the board in that area. I wonder what components are there. Sometimes when you see consistently minimal solder joints like that, it's because the components are very heat sensitive, so they are trying to get a good solder joint without heating it up too much.

If that's the case, they'd be better off to use a solder with a lower melt temp in that area.

 

tighed1, thanks for all the valuable information on the "Mystery No Start" problem. I recently developed this problem on my 2005 Crossfire Coupe. The problem turned out to be "Cold Solder Joints" in the same area you described. In fact, if you number the connections from the Printed Circuit Board, PCB, edge as number 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1, I had "Cold Solder Joint" on connections 1, 2 and 3. I didn't verify them by continuity testing them. I just visually identified them as Defective (Cold Solder Joints) . I added a small amount of Soldering Paste Flux and re-soldered all SIX connections using some multi-core solder. Your pix and information were invaluable in correcting the problem. Thanks again for all the valuable information you provided

Regards
Tom Fineran

 

When you find out the price charged by Mopar, you won't be very anxious to buy an RCM. The price I paid was $237.75 and that's with an Employee 25% discount. You can also get one from Discounted Rare and Genuine Parts Part Number 5099007AA where it goes for $247.00 plus S&H without any discount. BTW these things are made in Hungary. I hope the manufacturer doesn't make any Relay Control Modules for airplanes. I'd hate to have the plane's engines shut off in mid-flight the next time I fly somewhere.

Regards
Tom Fineran

 

When soldering electrical components rosin cored solder and rosin flux must be used.
The use of the more common acid cored solder and acid flux is not recommended at all because the acid will corrode the joint if it is not removed completely.

 

Your comments seem to be directed at Novices. So you might add things like:
1. Plug the Soldering Iron into a working outlet.
2. Hold the Soldering Iron by the Cool End.
3. Solder using the Hot End.

 

This forum has members from all walks of life and all with their own skill sets, not every one has had exposure to soldering electronic parts. They may well have ample knowledge and the tools to solder copper plumbing pipes but not know that the solder and flux used there is not suitable for electronics.
I see no reason not to emphasise the use of the proper materials.
Just for you I have amended your instructions.
1. Plug the Soldering Iron into a working outlet.
2. Hold the Soldering Iron by the Cool End.
3. Stick the Hot End where the sun does not shine.

 

Not that 100-80 needs ME to defend him......

You have made a lousy three posts here and have ASSumed way too much. This is a group of friends here and we try to help one another avoid mistakes when ever possible.

NOW...

I've been repairing electronics to the component-level for 29 years and I sure don't need anyone telling me how to solder, 100-80 included.

HOWEVER...

We have a lot of people who show up here and try (with our help) to do things they have never done before. 100-80's post was, IMO, appropriate. In fact, as is so often the case, I would say that he "beat me to it".

This board is full of "novices". Hell, I'd never clay barred a car until a month ago - no way I'd have drug a piece of "clay" across the finish of my car without advice from people here!

 

You thank someone for helping out then you go all attitude on a guy just trying to help out and possibly clarifying something,Tsk Tsk.

 

Thanks pizzaguy and Larry, sometimes what is written in these posts is all true but a small crucial point that is assumed by the writer may not be obvious to some readers.
I have learned a lot on this forum and I am always willing to help if I can. I always try to add a lot of info in my posts and some who know more think I am adding too much info. Too much for them maybe but maybe not enough for someone who knows little about the subject.
I like this site because you can learn a lot about the car, I read the SRT-6 and roadster posts that have no bearing on the coupe but its all info to learn and some small item in it may be of some future use.

The terminals that have to be re soldered appear to be steel, mine were black and I tried to file them to clean them up prior to soldering.
Pizzaguy, have you come across steel terminals like this before?

 

Anytime.

Quote:

Pizzaguy, have you come across steel terminals like this before?

They are similar to the eyelets in the old (1960's) Motorola Motrac circuit boards. Those damn things, if corroded by not being covered with solder at the factory, had to be sanded/filed down in order to make solder flow over them well.

VERY aggravating.

 

Trust him on this one folks. I once knocked over my bottle of flux, placed the soldering iron in my other hand so I could pick up the bottle, and realized my mistake when I smelled burning flesh. I was a nice big Zeva industrial type iron, so plenty to grip.

 

well 180, glad you mentioned it....I knew it.....but, when in a hurry, I just grab the first roll of solder in the drawer...so, when I get ready, I will now make sure it is rosin core...and not acid....lol

 

Been a Master Electrician in Industrial/Commercial applications for 25 years but with zero exposure to electronics..........and I was not aware of this. Thanks for the heads up 180.