How old is the battery? Mine tested fine too, but would die soon after. New bat fixed all.

 

March 2012.

Its the same battery that was in the car when I purchased it. I will have had the xfire for one year tomorrow.

 

I'd replace the battery. Our cars are very quirky as far as the voltages go. Check my post here:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post818318

 

Thanks a bunch.

That's what I ended up doing after taking it to the manufacturer. They replaced the battery for a prorated amount.

 

Cool. I take it everything is back to normal?

 

Seems that way. Starts up without any issues.

Also, I was having a problem where my spoiler would come up on its own and the ABS and ESP/BAS lights would come on nearly every drive. That seems to have gone away as well.

 

Spolier up is a definite sign of a near-dead battery.

 

Hello There,

My 2008 Roadster has been trouble free until yesterday. All was fine...drove the car in the morning and then went to work. 3 hours later I went tostart her up and all the electronics are working but the car does not crank atall. I hear a loud fan-like sound and that's about it.
Do you think this could be the RCM? If so would you be willing to repair it?

Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you in advance and Much appreciated!

 

Sounds like that may be your problem!


Email me at


tighed1 @ Hotmail.com


We will get her back on the road!

 

My 04 Xfire (108k miles) is suffering from no start.
When the key gets to the on position I can hear some fans or solenoids sort of semi struggling. Then engaging key in start position starter doesn't engage, no click nothing.

I removed the RCM and took it to my electronics guy who resoldered 30 points on it including the big 3. Popped it back in still no start.

I tested the battery, it is outputting 12.43v and 749 cold cranking amps (higher than rated).

I replaced the fob batteries and reprogrammed it.
Works fine unlocking and locking 3 flashes.
I tried the computer reset (disconnecting neg battery and shorting for 15 minutes).

This is what is odd, after resetting the computer and reconnecting, I can get the car to start perfectly exactly once on the first try. However it dies after 2 seconds. Then it won't turn over again unless I reset the computer again.

Any ideas what next?

 

You did pop the little cover off for batteries.. and not split the whole thing open right?

 

Yes, opened the cover and replaced batteries as per the manual.

 

Just for your info, the fob batteries have no part in starting the car. They are strictly for the remote door opening and closing.

If I was you I would see if any codes are set, there does not have to be a CEL on for the car to have a fault code set. Normally I would say the SKREEM was at fault but that usually allows two or three starts and stops before there is no attempt at a start. The SKREEM does remain a possible cause for the problem though.

 

Thanks for advice.
I will take it in for diagnostics.

I noticed paulnoyce described exact same symptoms in "Crossfire won't start" thread.
He replaced Skreem module and it solved it.

It's sounding like Skreem I will update after I get diagnostic.
I see some on ebay for $30 is this the right module?
1708201826 | eBay

Thanks a mil!

 

The SKREEM is custom programed for the car, otherwise why have one, it is the receiver for the signal from the chip in the fob via the halo ring around the ignition keyhole.
It is exchanged at the dealership or one of the companies that fix them.

 

Got the P0410 code. Sent my RCM to Tighed1 had the relay replaced and me so horny mod done. Popped it back in and was fine for several weeks but have the same code again. Would like to replace the check valve(s) but the only pics I can find appear to be of the standard Crossfire engine. I have been searching threads but have had no luck finding anything specific, part numbers, location, ect on dealing with the srt6 check valve replacement. Help?
Thank you

 

Martyfa,

There have been issues with the connector on the fan/blower itself. And I think a few have actually had to change the fan/blower/motor itself.
If you don't hear the thing run at cold startup, the issue is not check valves, but the motor itself not running.

If you DO hear it running, well, then - I guess you may be onto something. Its just that I've never heard of anyone resorting to check valves.
But mabye I'm not on here as much as I once was.

 

I wasn't very clear.....
This thread, post #13 describes the check valve I was trying to find.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-solution.html

 

I have experienced your same symptoms with my car (2005 CF Coupe) today with sound of electric motors runnung and car stops and won't start. This is the second time it has happened. I waited thirty minures until the fans no longer came on and the car started just fine. I did not have to disconnect the battery to reset it or anything. My theory is that the fans draw so much current (They sound like they are about to take off.) that the battery voltage drops below the level required to maintain the immobilizer circuitery and the car won't start. When the car cools down so the fans don't come on, the car can start and runs fine. I am looking for something in the fan circuit as the cause of the problem. Maybe the RCM solder joints need to be re-soldered?? When it stopped. The ignition lights worked but the car would not crank at all.

I have also previously had a separate problem in which the car will start for maybe 2 seconds and die. This happens three time then no longer will crank at all. This problem was caused by a key that was not being recognized by the halo ring in the ignition key slot. I went to the dealer and ordered a new key fob. Problem solved. The key security system is more complicated than necessary and one end up shooting ones self in the foot. The system has a Radio Frequency Identity (RFI) chip imbedded in the FOB. This chip requires no battery to be recognized by the halo ring in the ignition. The RFI is a static E-prom chip encoded with a unique serial number, ID number provided by the manufacturer. If this e-prom becomes unreadable or is damaged, your car will start 3 times for 2 seconds and them go into the immobilizer mode because since it didn't pass the RFI test you must be trying to steal the car and the system stops any further chance to start the car. The FOB also contains an IR powered electronic circuit which locks and unlocks the car. The third security feature is the key itself. The key will lock or unlock the door and turn on the ignition but will not
start the car unless the RFI chip is authorized by the Halo sensor around the key insert ring in the dash. If you have multiple car keys (FOBS) that work you are lucky. I do not.
If you get a new spare FOB, you will have to authorize the new FOB following a published procedure. Do not ever buy a spare used FOB off ebay because they will not work because they don't have the RFI chip programmed with the correct ID needed and there is no place to get that done.

I am not sure this helps anyone but the above facts are the result of my looking into the problem on my car. I am a 75 year old retired Military/Electronic Engineer/Computer Software Engineer. I love my Crossfire, it looks showroom new although it has 86,000 miles. Good luck.

 

Hi my_car,

Thanks a million for this info. The moment I read it I knew that the immobilizer is exactly the issue I am dealing with. Reset battery/starts/stalls in 2 seconds 3 times then nothing. I thought I tried reprogramming the key but it sounds like it didn't take, or the key is bad.

The car is at the dealer currently, I am going to go in and try it before they get to it.

I'll update.