Oil Level Sensor
Oil Level Sensor
I've seen several posts where owners have had bad oil level sensors, but I don't think anyone has posted their experience with changing it themselves.
To start, my oil light came on. I checked the oil level and it registered "OK". I never checked the dealer price to replace the oil level sensor, but the part price was $223. I opted to go with Autozone for $158. I down loaded the service manual and it had a nice picture of how the sensor is located inside the lower oil pan. The whole process of replacing this sensor was not hard.
1. Jack up car and remove bottom cover.
2. Drain oil. I let the car sit overnight to make sure that it was drained.
3. Remove the harness from the sensor. The service manual shows a picture, but I couldn't find it until I had removed the oil pan and saw where the sensor was located. The harness is located on the passenger side just above the oil pan. I used a small pair of pliers to remove the harness.
4. Remove the bolts from the two coolant lines connected to the oil pan, then remove all of the oil pan bolts. These are star headed bolts and you will need a #10 star socket.
5. Remove the oil pan. This was the hardest part for me. The pan is held together with a sealant. There are two flanges located on the drivers side where the pan can be pried loose.
6. Once the pan was off, I used a plastic scraper to remove the old sealant. I sprayed the pan with brake cleaner to clean and it also helped in removing the old sealant. Spraying a rag with the cleaner also worked on cleaning the upper pan.
7. The sensor is two parts connected by hose. There are two bolts for each part. These bolts were also a star bolt needing the same size socket as the pan.
8. After removing these two bolts the part that connects to the harness had to be pried out with a screwdriver as it has an o ring.
9. When replacing the new sensor, rub a little oil on the o ring. I went ahead and replaced the harness at this point. Be carefull of how the harness is inserted. There are three pins inside the sensor that the harness must be aligned with.
10. For the sealant on the oil pan, I used Permatex black gasket maker and followed the instructions on the package. I laid out a little over a 1/8" bead all aroung the pan. Once I had the pan back in place, I just snugged the bolts until the sealant started to squeeze out and let dry for an hour. After an hour, I tighted about another half turn. I let this dry overnight and then tightened to 10 ft. lbs.
11. Replaced oil and no more light.
As I said, not a really hard job and I saved a few bucks. Best part is I didn't have to leave the car with the dealer.
To start, my oil light came on. I checked the oil level and it registered "OK". I never checked the dealer price to replace the oil level sensor, but the part price was $223. I opted to go with Autozone for $158. I down loaded the service manual and it had a nice picture of how the sensor is located inside the lower oil pan. The whole process of replacing this sensor was not hard.
1. Jack up car and remove bottom cover.
2. Drain oil. I let the car sit overnight to make sure that it was drained.
3. Remove the harness from the sensor. The service manual shows a picture, but I couldn't find it until I had removed the oil pan and saw where the sensor was located. The harness is located on the passenger side just above the oil pan. I used a small pair of pliers to remove the harness.
4. Remove the bolts from the two coolant lines connected to the oil pan, then remove all of the oil pan bolts. These are star headed bolts and you will need a #10 star socket.
5. Remove the oil pan. This was the hardest part for me. The pan is held together with a sealant. There are two flanges located on the drivers side where the pan can be pried loose.
6. Once the pan was off, I used a plastic scraper to remove the old sealant. I sprayed the pan with brake cleaner to clean and it also helped in removing the old sealant. Spraying a rag with the cleaner also worked on cleaning the upper pan.
7. The sensor is two parts connected by hose. There are two bolts for each part. These bolts were also a star bolt needing the same size socket as the pan.
8. After removing these two bolts the part that connects to the harness had to be pried out with a screwdriver as it has an o ring.
9. When replacing the new sensor, rub a little oil on the o ring. I went ahead and replaced the harness at this point. Be carefull of how the harness is inserted. There are three pins inside the sensor that the harness must be aligned with.
10. For the sealant on the oil pan, I used Permatex black gasket maker and followed the instructions on the package. I laid out a little over a 1/8" bead all aroung the pan. Once I had the pan back in place, I just snugged the bolts until the sealant started to squeeze out and let dry for an hour. After an hour, I tighted about another half turn. I let this dry overnight and then tightened to 10 ft. lbs.
11. Replaced oil and no more light.
As I said, not a really hard job and I saved a few bucks. Best part is I didn't have to leave the car with the dealer.
The following 2 users liked this post by JerryG:
bmsgreg64 (05-08-2021),
NeedSynthetic.com (07-17-2022)
Re: Oil Level Sensor
Yes I agree this was very good post, I also have this problem and will not be getting quote from dealer I will try it today thanks for the info.
Re: Oil Level Sensor
Crossfire Index of Problems, DIY Fixes, Reference Materials
Click on the Documentation link for NA & SRT-6 Crossfires. Takes you to another thread where all the manuals are listed. Download whatever you need. (Nothing like responding to a 5-yr old post! But I did copy & save the DIY post on changing the Oil Level Sensor that started this thread.)
Last edited by dedwards0323; 08-18-2016 at 07:35 AM.
Re: Oil Level Sensor
Thank you.
Broken oil sensor is typical fault in Crossfires?
Why it breaks? Becouse oil was not changed on time or was not changed any time?
Maybe engine rinsing fix it? https://www.google.pl/url?sa=i&rct=j...71675584620697
Broken oil sensor is typical fault in Crossfires?
Why it breaks? Becouse oil was not changed on time or was not changed any time?
Maybe engine rinsing fix it? https://www.google.pl/url?sa=i&rct=j...71675584620697
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Age: 69
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Re: Oil Level Sensor
Thank you.
Broken oil sensor is typical fault in Crossfires?
Why it breaks? Becouse oil was not changed on time or was not changed any time?
Maybe engine rinsing fix it? https://www.google.pl/url?sa=i&rct=j...71675584620697
Broken oil sensor is typical fault in Crossfires?
Why it breaks? Becouse oil was not changed on time or was not changed any time?
Maybe engine rinsing fix it? https://www.google.pl/url?sa=i&rct=j...71675584620697
Dang it, thought that link was for 'engine rinsing' that you mentioned. Got to remember to not automatically click on links... Can you please explain what 'engine rinsing' is?
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Age: 69
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Re: Oil Level Sensor
Ahhhh, an engine flush. You do know that most of these products main ingredient is kerosene. Whenever I do an engine flush with my older vehicles, I just use a good grade of kerosene. It is much less expensive and does an excellent job of removing all those nasties.
The following users liked this post:
NeedSynthetic.com (07-17-2022)
The following users liked this post:
NeedSynthetic.com (07-17-2022)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
Age: 69
Posts: 5,839
Received 369 Likes
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Re: Oil Level Sensor
That depends if the sensor is stuck from sludge, and if it can be 'unstuck'. If you do replace it, you have a few more things you HAVE to get right the 1st time or you'll be dealing with those things (like maybe a leaky gasket?). If I were you, I would drain a qt of oil and add a good grade of kerosene to the full mark. Run it for 15 or 20 minutes (at least to full operating temperature for that 15 minutes). I would then lightly tap the area where the sensor is located while and after draining the oil (maybe 'releasing' potentially stuck float?), then put fresh oil and filter in to the 'minimum' mark on the dipstick. If it doesn't free it up (if in fact it is 'stuck' from sludge) give it a few miles on bumpy roads. If it is stuck and able to 'jar' loose, you now have fixed it. Our cars do not have to have the oil at the 'maximum' mark. Driving around 1 to 3/4 qt lower than 'MAX' just might restore the sensor operation. If it doesn't, your only out the cost of the kerosene (and an oil change if it was not needed at the time you try this). In my opinion, it would be much cheaper than ordering all the parts needed to replace that sensor, including another oil change, anyway. Always go the least cost first, then if it doesn't work you can explore additional options (I always say). Remember, no one knows (that I have read) WHY they have a problem with their sensor, they just go and replace it. It couldn't hurt to try and figure out if it is stuck vs broken.